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Schooner Ingomar by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/278 - Hereshoff designed


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Hi everyone!  Hope you're all well.  

 

What a difference the addition of the drop keel and rudder has made to Ingomar's hull.  I was actually dreading adding the drop keel, because I thought it would spoil her underbody shape, but, to my surprise, I reckon it's added a huge point of interest to the hull.  To my mind, Ingomar looks like she's really coming along nicely.  The rudder, also, has made a big difference and in many ways, sort of 'completes' the hull nicely.

 

Another addition that's just been added is the final strip of jarrah to finish off the deck's edge and the top of the transom.  I reckon it contrasts nicely against the lightly coloured deck planks.  Still needs further sanding and varnishing though.

 

Lastly, I've temporarily added a piece of wood to simulate the long bowsprit.  It looks really, really, really long to me, but I've triple checked the measurement and it's correct.  It just gives you an idea of the huge amount of sail that these mega yachts carried in the early 1900's.

 

Hope you enjoy the photos.

 

All the best, everyone!

 

 

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Thanks Mick!  Greatly appreciated.  I love working at this sort of small scale, because I love the challenge of trying to fit everything possible into the build.  It still doesn't mean that I've gotten everything right, as close examination of Ingomar will attest.  There are more than a few errors which will add to my learning curve for the next model.

 

Happy modelling and good luck with your ship.

 

all the best!

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Wonderful work Omega,

 

fully understand your own attitude and meaning to scale and challenge, and you`ve done it masterly.

This schooner exhibited in a fine Display case will surely be a Little treasure in your home....

the White hull Color reminds me of a ivory carved  or bone carved model, like some maritime Museums display

Are you planing your next one ?

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Hi Nils.  Many thanks for your comments.  The hull sure looks nice, but I'm wondering what colour the drop keel would normally be?  Do you think it would be white as well, or painted a metallic colour, e.g. silver, or aluminium?  Do you have any thoughts?  I'm partial to painting it white, but I'm unsure what the normal practice would be.

 

As for my next model, I'm kinda thinking maybe Sparkman and Steven's Stormy Weather, or something like this:

 

http://www.artesedesign.com/sailing/signe.html  

 

Either way, it should be great fun.

 

Have you got any more photos of your tall ships?  I'd love to see more build logs if you have time.

 

All the best!

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Hi Omega,

 

if you leave the hull in White, I would recommend a nice nostagic brass Color for the dropkeel, or perhaps a dull brick-red, to give a certain, but not dominating,  contrast to the White hull. The brass Color would  go together very nicely in style with the mahagony deck Fitting out you have. I unfortunately do not know what the colors the actual ship was bearing, most of the photos of that period are in black/White.

 

The "Signe" Looks a very fine eyecatching ship. The Picture from the aft wake Position Looks great

 

I have built 2 tallships to date, the build logs with both extensive photo series that can be refered to per link in my signiture, or by viewing my appropriate Gallery postings- enjoy...

I have no space in my home any more for additional tall ships, and the HMS Pegasus I do`nt even know in the Moment where she shall be set up, allthough I feel she deserves a Special place

 

Cheers, Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Hi Nils.  Thanks for your advice.  Brass for the drop keel does sound good.  I'll definitely consider that one.  I'll check out your gallery to see your ships and admire them some more.  As for Pegasus, you're definitely right.  She deserves somewhere special in your house. 

 

All the best and thanks, once again!

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Hi Elia.  That's high praise, indeed!  However, I'm sure that there'll be absolutely nothing wrong with your dories at all.  They will certainly look the part, with loads of character, atmosphere and amazing crispness and attention to detail!  

 

I look forward to following your progress.

 

All the best and many thanks!

Edited by Omega1234
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H Yves, Sven and for everyone else for stopping by for the "likes".  Greatly appreciated!

 

I'm in the process of painting Ingomar's hull at the moment, so there's nothing really new to show.  But soon I'll be able to start on more of the deck hardware, such as the windlass, binnacle, wheel, etc.

 

In the meantime, all the best!!!

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Hi all! Guess what? It's Friday...and you all know what that means. Yep. It's the weekend soon. Yay.

 

Well, Ingomar's just emerged from an in-depth session of painting. Her hull's been sanded and painted; probably more than 10 times over the past couple of weeks. After that, I applied at least four coats of thinned down gloss varnish as a clear coat. But, before all that, in terms of preparatory work, I did my best to clear up all the rough edges and clean things up. That way the finish would scrub up really nice and crisply. Nils, if you're reading this, after some consideration, I'm still in two minds about painting the drop keel the brass colour. It sounds good, but I wonder if it would stand out too much? I may still do it later. Thanks for your advice, though.

 

I've also made the twin drum windlass in the bow of the ship (it still needs a bit of finishing off. I don't have the ability to replicate all the actual gears of an authentic windlass, so I kinda cheated and made a modern-style windlass, such as what would appear on large modern yachts today; albeit a simplified version of one.

 

The following photos illustrate the paint finish of the hull, as well as the windlass.

 

Have a great weekend and all the best!

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Edited by Omega1234
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Hi Jeff, Nils, MTaylor, Hexnut, and Perls for stopping by.  It's greatly appreciated.  

 

Jeff - that's the beauty of this Forum; we can all get inspired and spurred on by other people's work.  I love doing what I do, because it takes me away to another world, especially after crappy days at work!  I hazard a guess that that may be the same for yourself and many other's too.

 

All the best!!

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Hi all. Anchor's Aweigh!!! After doing the twin drum windlass, the time had come to do the two anchors that Ingomar had resting on her foredeck. I tried many ways, but finally succeeded in replicating the anchors as best I could; although they do need a bit of cleaning up to get rid of the rough edges. I then painted them light gray to simulate a 'worn' sort of look. I also threaded the anchor chain (actually black rigging thread had to be used because I didn't have a chain tiny enough!) through the hawse holes and up through the deck and onto the respective drums of the windlass.

 

Also, having glued the bowsprit on, I decided to see what Ingomar's masts would look like. I put some dummy dowels into the mast holes to see just how much of a transformation the masts would eventually make. Wow! Not bad, I thought.

 

QUESTION! I have to build the binnacle next. However, I'm stuck for ideas of how to build the octagonal glass part of the binnacle. At this scale, it's a pretty difficult task because it's only about 1.5 mm high. I can try using an octagonal shaped glass bead, (from a jewellerry bead shop) but I'd welcome any ideas from anyone out there. Any ideas????

 

Hope you enjoy the photos!

 

All the best!

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Edited by Omega1234
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She is looking marvelous, love the small details.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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There was a post on the Internet by a Gent who used tin foil to form guilding on the stern of a vessel by drawing with a blunt scribe on the reverse side of what was to show. This raised section was then painted accordingly. You could make an octagon plug of desired height and shape and then stretch the foil over it.

Then scribe on the reverse side where the glass sections go with a blunt needle. Then paint it up. Remember at this scale less is more.

 

The only other option would be a piano or guitar string wire formed to shape and then glue on some 0.005" clear plastic of the sort the model railroaders use. It's intricate work however one person wrote " a Ship Model is a series of models within a model and each model deserves the utmost attention to detail."

 

I look forward to what you come up with!

 

Jeff

A mighty fortress is our God a bulwark never failing!

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Omega I was thinking about your octagonal glass for the binnacle.

 

If you filed and polished the end of some brass rod and then warmed it up with a propane torch or the electric element on the stove you could then push the end into some vac formed blister pack to create your own plastic forming.

 

It might take a few tries to get the temperature just right but I am positive it would work, in fact I am going to try it myself.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Hi omega I definitely think that you could do something with this method.

 

The first pic shows a blister pack  and some .062 brass rod held in a pin vice

 

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A quick rough shaping with just a file  on the end of the brass rod

 

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and the closest impression is the last one I did. I held the pack in my left hand and slowly pushed the form up from the bottom so that I could see the impression forming, I held it there and cooled the plastic by blowing on it with the form in place.

 

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Although the dome is crude I am sure that i will use this method for some items in the future.

 

The hole was the first try. then a few more with varying results, I found that you need to keep the form in place till the plastic is cooled.

 

Michael

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Hi Michael and Jeff (Chasseur) and everyone else for their likes.

 

Michael and Jeff - many thanks for your brilliant suggestions. Jeff, your suggestion about building it up with fine wire was where I was heading, but, Michael's suggestion is tantalisingly tempting as well!

 

I'll give the heated brass rod and blister pack a go first. If that doesn't work, then I'll try Jeff's idea.

 

I'll post up the pics once done, regardless of whether it works or not. Really appreciate all your help on this!

 

All the best.

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Instead of shaping a brass rod why not shape a clear plastic rod and it use for the glass?

 

Bob

Edited by Cap'n'Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Hi Michael, Jeff and Bob.  Well, I tried Michael's suggestion a couple of hours ago.  It was indeed tricky to get the heat and timing just right.  No sooner had I heated the rod, pushed the plastic over it, only to find that it would be too hot. The plastic would just melt away, leaving a hole.  Other times it would be too cold and the plastic would barely show an indentation.  After a while, I think I got about three or four (out of about 20 goes) that looked ok.  I'll see whether they're ok to use tomorrow.  If not, I'll try Jeff's and Bob's methods.

 

Thanks for all your help! 

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Good suggestion Bob, the bottom part can just be painted leaving the top clear.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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You've come a long way since my last visit Omega. That is a heck of a fine job. I am blown away with the clean lines and sharp detail you have achieved at scale 1/192. Way to go!

 

Dave

Sawdust Dave -

Current build - USS Constitution 1:60th (scratch)....

Visit my blog site - All previous builds.... http://davesmodelships.blogspot.com

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Hi all.  My attempts to replicate Michael's method of heating a brass rod to make the binnacle glass are shown below.  I haven't progressed much on the binnacle, because I am looking at other methods as well, before deciding which one looks best.

 

I've also included photos of Ingomar's boarding ladder and also her three boats, two of which were motor launches and the third was a rowboat.  The method I used for the boats was to glue two layers of thin strips of paper over a waxed mould.  I then saturated the dried paper with liquid super glue, which then formed a tough layer.  When dried, I then popped the hull out of the mould and voila!  Not too bad, I thought for a first attempt at this method.  The ships boats still require a whole heap of cleaning up, sanding and painting before they look presentable.  The same goes for the boarding ladder.  I've still got to figure out how to do the davits...

 

Anyhow, hope you enjoy the photos

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Edited by Omega1234
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The ladder and boats look good.  I’ll have to try that method of hull building.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Hi everyone.  Thanks for your Likes and comments.  They're fantastic and always positive.  Bob - if you try this method for the ships boats, I'm sure you won't be disappointed because it's certainly easier than carving them from solid wood, like I used to.

 

Just for fun, I thought I'd see whether these little boats would actually float!  And guess what?  See the photos below:

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Edited by Omega1234
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Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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