Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style

[RichardG]

I don't know if he invented the technique, but I first saw it on one of Nigel's (NMBROOK) logs. He has since written a tutorial http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7445-plank-caulking-using-tissue-paper-tutorial-by-nigel-brook/. I am using the method on my deck planking. It's a little tedious but the results are good.

 

Richard.

[Mike Y]

Careful reader mentioned that the joint is cut in a wrong direction - it should be rotated 90deg. Nice catch!

But decided to leave it as is - otherwise no point in making such joints, they would be fully invisible..

And making a third version of a keel on a first fully framed model sounds like an overkill, I will never finish it if I go that road Let's call it an artistic touch, like Hahn's frames

 

Toni, thank you for advice! I was looking on your log as a source of many inspirations!

[AON]

Richard, Thank you for the link!

 

Mike, I see the felt used in David Antscherl's volume 1 of The Fully Framed Model

 

Alan

[Mike Y]

20 midship frames are cut (which makes it 50% of overall frames!):

 

 

Looks ship-alike!

 

Starting from the midship ones because other frames are much more complex, I can get some skill and experience on an easier midship ones.

 

Overall build status:

(the frames I currently have installed on a model would be replaced by the newly produced - they are made out of different wood, more yellow-ish)

 

Next step is nasty, and I am trying to push it down the road - sanding the face of every frame on a sanding board. Produces lots of dust, takes around 20 min per frame..

So will switch to the keel instead, then simulate the iron bolts with monofilament, then...

Edited February 8, 2015 by Mike Y

[Mike Y]

Slowly progressing with the keel / stem / stern assembly.

 

Finished the deadwood and the slots for the wing transoms. Instead of chiseling, made that slots by gluing a wood strips and sanding it down to a smooth surface. (Tar simulation is done with a black paper again).

 

 

 

Simulating the iron bolts with 0.5mm black monofilament:

 

 

It is a little bit not to the scale, should be 0.52mm instead of 0.50 (assuming that original bolts were 1 inch thick). But that is the biggest monofilament I found.

Maybe on a next, true replica model will use the real iron bolts (with the heads). But this time - a small simplification.

Only one side of a frame has a bolts, because another side would be fully planked anyway.

 

Lots of sanding ahead - need to go through 240 -> 320 -> 400 -> 600 -> 1200 -> 2000 grits to achieve a consistent thickness of a frame and a smooth finish. 

Edited March 1, 2015 by Mike Y

[dvm27]

Damned sneaky, Mike. And quite brilliant solution to getting those transom slots perfect! Will definitely file that one away.

[Jack Panzeca]

Hey Mike,

 

She looks great.  I really like the black paper caulk lines.     Where did you find the monofilament?  Fishing stores around here have a very limited selection if any at all.

 

Great work, love the frames.  

[Mike Y]

Thanks for a nice words!

 

Jack, found the monofilament on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Skysper-500M-Fishing-Nylon-Black/dp/B00R71DEF8/

It is the largest I found. Actually wanted something like 0.6. 

The bigger sizes are around 1.5mm, they are made for tennis rackets.

I saw your ebony solution, amazing! But I worry that black ebony dust will make pear around it dirty when I sand the frame. Is that a problem?

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi Mike,

 

Thanks for the link.  That is exactly what I was looking for, even the correct size.  When I did not find anything at the time I got the idea of using ebony.  I had so much fun cutting the 1/32 by 1/32 square dowels and using a draw plate to get them down to .032 inch round dowels that I am happy that it worked out this way.  Ebony is tough on the saw blades and the dust is a pain but  my original problem was that I could not keep the Liver of Sulphur off the Swiss pear.  The ebony was not a problem.  It would smudge a little when first cut off but then a quick pass through the thickness sander and all is well.

 

 

Your Cromwell is looking great.

[Mike Y]

Got some cool stuff for my build today! Hope it will improve the accuracy.

 

 

Really love the micro dremel - good balance, easy to align to a 90deg angle (I do not have a drill press unfortunately). And on a low speed it is very quiet comparing to a regular dremel - meaning that I can use it while my daughter is trying to fell asleep. 

 

And optivisor is beating the expectations - how I managed to live without it before??? Clean view, light on a head, good lenses.

[AON]

You`re young yet

wait when you get older and you`ll appreciate the magnification so much more!!!  

Edited March 5, 2015 by AON

[Canute]

Ditto for me. Can't have too much light or magnification, even for young eyes.

[gjdale]

Yep, the Optivisor is among the "essential" tools in my shop!

[Mike Y]

Got distracted with other things - summer is coming, and I suddenly ended up buying a real boat..

Of course it needs maintenance, cleaning, parking, blah blah, so not so much time for a modelling.

 

Got guns and carriages from Syren Ship Models:

 

And working on the stem:

 

Here is the previous version for comparison:

 

As usual, joints are blackened with a tissue paper and reinforced with treenails.

Stem is not fully accurate, knee is simplified, but decided to keep it simpler on a first fully framed model.

Hope to finish the skeleton during May, and start sanding and mounting 20 midship frames.

Edited May 13, 2015 by Mike Y

[mtaylor]

I do like the looks of the new stem, Mike.  And all the cannon..    Have fun with the boat.   both the real one and the model.

[Mike Y]

Skeleton finished, will cut the rabbet after covering it with wipe-on poly. In a meanwhile, experimenting with different finishes to find the right one for me.

 

Now sanding the sides of the frames, very stupid process that I was trying to delay as much as possible

Aiming to get a consistent 7.4mm thickness to make sure that frames would be properly aligned.

 

Hope to finish it this week, sawdust is covering the table, bleeh!

And nobody will see the difference anyway...

[mtaylor]

Looks lovely, Mike.  Do leave some extra on the frames as fairing will take that down even further. 

[Mike Y]

Of course, there is a reserve on the outer and inner edges of a frames.

I am sanding the other part, "flat" side of a frame, it will not be affected during fairing.

[mtaylor]

Oh...    I'm an idiot...  Totally misunderstood.   I'll leave quietly.... 

[Mike Y]

Please do not go away! Your critics is always very welcome! And I have a hard time trying to name different sides of a frame...

[Omega1234]

Hi Mike

 

I'm just catching up on your most recent posts and I must say how fine your frames, keel and stem pieces are looking! Really nice.

 

Good luck with the rest of the build.

 

It'd be great if you could also sneak a few photos of your full sized boat as well!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[Mike Y]

Tested two different types of wipe-on poly. Same producer, one is shiny, one is flat.

Test pieces are cut from the same piece of wood, same part of the piece, so without finish they are completely identical.

 

The difference is quite obvious with a real eye, and my camera (and/or photo skills) is not good enough to show it properly

Shiny finish is unnaturally shiny, and makes wood look a bit darker.

Will go with the flat one, it is barely visible, and preserves the natural color of the wood, while providing some basic protection.

 

Natural light:

 

Flash:

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi Mike,

 

I like the flat too.

[gjdale]

I agree Mike - the flat looks better.

[Mike Y]

Jack, Grant - sure, let it be flat! Covered keel and four frames with poly, give it a day to dry

[AON]

I know I am late with my vote (but I would have went with flat also) 

[Mike Y]

Sanding is finished, dust washed away!

Covered all frames with poly, they are drying now.

 

 

Just realised that I actually have two models now! One made out of "yellow-ish" pear, and the one from the "pink-ish" pear.

The yellow one is used as a training model. I am practicing on it to avoid some mistakes on a real model.

For example, as you see on a background, I installed 9 frames on a training model - and realised that:

a) Not so easy to align frames to 90 degrees in all directions, need to make a jig to set the frames square.

Even without gluing frames to the building jig, the construction is rigid enough for fairing, no need to glue in any fillers or spacers. That worried me for a while, because I will have one side fully unplanked, and installing fillers on one side only might cause hull asymmetry. 

[StebbinsTim]

Great work Mike. Looking forward to following your build.

[Omega1234]

Very nice. Two hulls for the price of one, Mike! Are you tempted to complete both hulls?

[AntonyUK]

Hi Mike.

You're are doing a terrific job on the Cromwell and I have learnt a lot from just reading your build log.

Paying a lot of attention to detail makes for a excellent model.

 

Super build.

 

Regards Antony.