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HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...

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Thank you Maurice :-)

As on another place, there is the "war of the thimbles" raging, here is my input for special small ones.
A brass tube of 1mm outside and 0,5 mm inside is secured with a core of high-grade steel wire ...
... and placed upon a hard acrylic surface and a cutter blade is use to roll in a groove ...
... then the blade is placed further in and with pressing rolling the thimble is cut off.
Then the core is used as handle to sand off the edges ...
... and ready is the thimble of 1 mm outside, 0,5 mm inside and 0,5 mm thickness with 0,5 mm hight with groove.
Production is quite easy and if necessary also possible with reduced hight - then without the groove :-)
Cheers, Daniel

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And what´s a thimble without a rope ?!?

Took off the inner edges to give the typical rounding on the inside ...
... hooked them up to put them into the blackening soup and to get them out without having to search ...
... ok, first trial was not the wanted result as smartened ropes can´t be sliced ...
... so to be smart no smartening but a splice, inserted the thimble and closed the loop ...
... smartened the ends off and lashed it down ...
... and went happy about the result :-)

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... just wanted to work a bit on the bitts ...


At one point I just realised, that the cross pieces were underneath the knees of my sailors - somewhat short it appears.

So do your own ones dear dafi and take the chance to add the needed number of sheaves by doing so.


So I took McKays measures but the result appeared a bit high. So I did the mistake to start investigating ...

New modern sources like Schrade give 1,2 meters height for the total height above the deck whereas McKay indivcats 1,4 meters.
Then looked at Goodwins Construction und Fitting summing up Steels measurements - and I was totally lost ...
More to be found here
So here is the situation, before I send my dear Proxon Micromiller into a prematurely holliday.
Mizzen and main bitts were done, the crosspieces for the fores and the pre-cuts for the bitts themselves.
And already somethings in red to be adapted:
Slimming down the crosspieces a bit, easy-bisy :-)
The bitts of mizzen and main have to be shortened a bit. Also to be done by some clean cuts on the circular saw. Just how much, THAT is the question?!?
And then I am sure in strongly believing that the fore bitts will be an easy game too :-)

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Thank you Kevin and Popeye!


Finally some time for tinkering ...

First shortened the first version of the mizzen topsail sheet bitts to 90 cm height ...
... and adapted to the fall of the mast. Then worked the fore brace bitts.
Then carved new main top bowline and fore topsail sheet bitts and added the needed number of sheaves. 
As I (still) follow McKay for the rigging, I opted for the fore topsail sheet bitts with a third sheave bolted to the side for the foretop sheets, fore sail clue lines and bowlines. As the maintop bowline bitts held only the fore yard sheer falls and the top sail bowlines, I omitted the third sheave - one sometimes is lazy , you know ;-)
Here to compare with the kits parts. Surprisingly the basic measures are quite near the ones I choose - the kit is surely better that its reputation :-)
Theonly thing are the details, still difficult to cast at the times the kit was developed .
Still the mizzen topsail sheet bitts with the partners to bolt it onto the deck beams.

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Not too much time for tinkering, it is high season in the office :-)

And then I had the ingenious idea to make castings of the bitts, as I somehow feel, that I could still use them on other situations ;-)
So I took the green  Pricosil and casted and sworn my a.. off as I tried for hours to get this highly slot-intruding rubbery mass out off the slots again...
So lessons learned, text trial was with inlays of the firmer kneading silicone ...
... and it worked :-)
Cleaning up a bit, some touches of paint and ready for the first family shots.
That is already going the direction I had in mind :-)
Cheers, Daniel

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Thank you Kirby and Popeye :-)


The clearing of the cast pieces went rather fast and easy, the slots only had to be drilled open for the ropes later on. Getting the rubber silicone out from the original parts after the first misdone form cast was much more tiring, as one cant simply drill or pull the material out as it proved to be too small.



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You remember?

New poopdeck?
With the deck beams on the right place?
For this I took the Heller kit piece as a basic part, as camber and sheer suited quite well.
But me stupid cupid did not think that the amount of not precurved deck beams would flatten up the piece that much ...
... bolt straight.
That was no good so it had to be changed.
Made two templates on the side to support the forming.
A wet cloth and a hot iron to soften up wood and plastic ...
... and pressed it in between two planks.
As for the antiartic temperatures at the moment the whole thing was transferred into the fridge ...
... and great, the missing camber was really there :-)
But also a negative curve in the sheer :-(
Also the parquet suffered a bit :-( :-( :-(
Tjo ...
... what does the dafi think at these moments?!?
GREAT!!! The planking pattern had anyway some flaws and around the mast there were a lot of patched holes from misplaced eyebolts ...
... so got out a new deck, relocated the hole for the skylight in the already documented fashion and started scraping of the wood grains ...
... and the best anyway - as a result of the procedure, the old deck beams already had the right curve ...
... and some paint and the underneath was already done :-) :-) :-)
Edited by dafi

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THAT my dear Jan made my day!


For those not knowing german: The Iron states "kein heller Stoff" means "not for white cloth" as it may leaves marks, it is only a workshop iron. 


With all the marks on the writing one could read instead "Not for Heller Stuff".


NOW I now what went wrong :-)



Edited by dafi

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I had somewhat the same problem with my United States decks,   but my problem was I left them stagnate for too long,  and they warped.  another problem was which way I had the grain going.    what I've done with the new decks,  was to clamp them to the plastic decking before putting them in the closet.   it's been some time since the model has come to the table,  but I do check on them periodically...they still look good.   I also changed the direction of the grain so they would bend more easily.


I planked the decks and sprayed them with semi gloss lacquer........I kept getting the 'white'.   temp + humidity  ÷ by the drying time between the temp and thinner saturation.   perhaps you added too much thinner to the paint?   it appears grainy,  like the paint is drying as it's coming from the nozzle. it's also true that heat can play a part in it...cracking due to shrinkage.

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Just prior to go on a business trip, I managed to finish the new deck

Left old, right new, the planking pattern is much more even now.
Then got small pieces of wire, moulded on a head with diluted PVC glue in multiple layers to level up the still appearing unevennesses ...
... splashed some paint on it and put them in place.
And then the exiting part: Try it out in situ :-)
Heyho, you won´t believe this, now the world looks much brighter again :-)

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No Jan, before I can do the upper gun deck, I have to solve the middle one :-)


But now see the return of the weevil.
After some absence due to work trips, I managed to do some small things.
Does any one remember this piece? 
This was tiller v1 until January 08 2012 before tiller 2.0 took over the helm.  So the recipe says to steer some pinches of tiller v1 ...
... chop it in pieces and use it as construction beams to get a feeling for the fo´castle. The layout of the beams was taken from McKay as it appears to be plausible. Here the resulting corrections in the placement of the gratings as a result of the changes:
Then trow in some planks ...
... and compare with the kit(d)s parts
You may guess which is which, here a better hint ;-)
So and then the double bill on the poop takes its toll: I was running out of planks ...
Have to cut new ones, that might take time.
Edited by dafi

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