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  2. Al, another option is to try the following:- The fence has a slight taper from middle to back to allow the cut plank to move slightly away from the saw. When using slitting blades on some woods I find this isn't enough so I increase it by attaching a thin 6" rule to the fence with double sided tape. The end of the rule nearest the blade overlaps the front edge of the blade by about 1/2"
  3. Today
  4. Thanks again Kurt. I'll play with it tomorrow if I can and let you know how it goes. I'm looking forward to getting some good use out of the saw.
  5. Al: Check the blade for flatness using a piece of plate glass or something that is truly flat. If it's not flat get rid of it. If the blade is burned the metal's no good but if it's just "burned on" resins from the wood it can be cleaned up - if it's still flat. The clamp I used for the strip jig is an old aluminum X-Acto clamp. The portion that fits into the groove on the saw had to be narrowed, but a carbide tipped blade on the Byrnes saw did the job w/o any damage to the blade. Let us know how your next try comes along. Kurt
  6. Thank you Kurt. I am using a fine tooth blade. I will change blades and switch the fence to the other side and give it a try. I really like the fixture in the second picture. I should be able to make something like that. I really appreciate you sharing your experience. Should I just throw away the burned blade?
  7. Al: You didn't mention the blade being used - if you are using a fine slitting blade it's probably heating up, warping and causing the binding. However with you being right handed use the fence on the right side of the blade. A thin slitting blade with many teeth has a tendency to heat up because the blade doesn't have any set to the teeth and the sawdust isn't ejected like with a true wood cutting blade. Follow the attached photo and you will not have binding (except from a hot, warped blade). Using the fence as shown makes it safer too as the cut off piece also falls away from the blade. If "trapped" between the blade and fence the off-cut can be sent back at the operator by the blade's rotation. If you are cutting a bunch of strips of the same width use a set up like in the 2nd photo - it assures each strip is the same width in a safer manner. The guide on the left must be well forward of the blade - it's just used to set the width of the cut - the wood is guided just as shown in the first photo. Hope this helps. Kurt
  8. For my ship CADing, I use DesignCAD, the 3D version. It is fairly cheap, and functions well. I draw out the frames in 2D, then switch to 3D to place them, then use the spline function to connect the dots. Has a learning curve, but so do all the CAD programs.
  9. I have had my Byrnes table saw for quite a while but have used it very little since I got it for various reasons. I want to get serious with using it now but I think I'm doing something wrong. My work is binding and stalling the saw ripping some 1/4" boxwood. I am using it with the fence to the left of the blade but I see everyone using the fence to the right of the blade. Is that my problem? I am right handed and have never used a table saw before.
  10. Thanks Pete, I will definitely try this. Until today it seems to be best program for this purpose.
  11. The stern lofting of Cornélie is pretty well finished and golly, does she have lovely looking buttocks. Fashion frame(s) and filling transoms fair in nicely and the surface differentials, for defining the wood’s shape and curve, are complete. The remaining step is to position it all on the massif and define the pieces of the deadwood, and their curvatures. Whew! That was hard! Well, not so much hard as incredibly painstaking. I got inspired by the 3D work done for the Swan Group by their European mystery guest. I am trying some of the same techniques to get rabbets looking right and get good plots of cutting-down lines, etc.. The goal is to have the plan set that includes a synthesis of benchmark lines representing both French and British practice. Much of what people are used to seeing on British plans seems to be missing somehow from the French equivalent. However, it is probably better to say that certain information is not necessarily missing, but is rather presented in a completely different manner. So why not combine the two? CAD is so cool!
  12. There is a pic posted by AON in the Nautical General Discussion forum of a pinrail on the Niagara, copied below. Notice the black lines run down from the pinrails to the ceiling near the deck. Is this reinforcing for the pinrail? Given the huge forces imposed onto the pinrails by half a dozen lines from the running rigging, I am surprised that this isn't more common. I've never seen this depicted on models. Lacking these reinforcements, does anyone have detail of how the pinrails were joined to timberheads? Must have been one strong joint ... dovetailed with several pins?
  13. I'm not saying that it's impossible to get a good quality cheap tool but usually you get what you pay for. And it definitely pays to make an investment in a better tool.
  14. Them Old Jokes

    Nah, that implies a reasonable about of study, experience, and peer review to establish qualifications.
  15. Thanks for keeping us up-to-date on this. This location is really nice. Especially for aviation buffs. I think it is probably better than the one downtown on the mall at least in my opinion.
  16. tapering masts

    I've learned to do it by hand (i.e. no power tools), either by taper square stock with a knife then sanding, or just sanding down a dowel. In fairness, the largest ship I've built is a topsail schooner, but doing it by hand makes sure I don't overdo it. I just put on an audio book or baseball game and work away.
  17. tapering masts

    I have the Proxxon mini lathe, but, honestly, I find it easier to use my drill. I mounted it upside down in a vice, and move sandpaper between my thumb and forefinger up and down until I get the right diameter and taper. Double up on the sandpaper as it gets a bit warm.
  18. It's official, the USS Langley will be transported to the Smithsonian on October 26, 2017 and delivered to it's temporary home at the Udvar Hazey Center. This is a companion facility of the Air and Space Museum located in Chantilly VA. https://airandspace.si.edu/udvar-hazy-center. This has been some time in the coming and Bill E., the builder, is honored to have it on display. Apparently there will be a future venue planned for the model and its surrounding display. I hope those of you living and traveling in the area get to see it. It is truly a magnificent model!!!!!
  19. Nice batch of pics. Lots of detail I've not noticed before.
  20. Band or Scroll saw

    My vote is for a scroll saw as well - but dont skimp on the cost. I owned a table top Delta unit I paid 100 USD on ebay - the vibration was so terrible it was almost impossible to use and broke many blades. My new DeWalt mounted on a stand made a world of difference - it cost me close to 500 USD but is a dream to use - its extremely accurate and i can cut curves closely to plan lines easily. I will be using this saw quite a bit cutting out frame pieces for my next fully framed build.
  21. Dark Harbor 17

    Great looking yacht !!! Nice build !!! Great detail !!!
  22. Mamoli wood chart

    thank you, i will use that!
  23. Hi Moxis I have used this in the past and it did a pretty good job. It seems to have a lot more features now than my older version and claims to be able to distinguish between characters and object shapes. They have a free trial that you can use to see if it does what you are after so you don't have to put any skin in the game to find out. https://www.scan2cad.com/ Cheers Pete
  24. This week I was given a kit of the Gjoa that had been started. When I opened the box I found a copy of this booklet. I bought it years ago and I probably still have it in a drawer somewhere. Well I started browsing through the pages and found that it has a lot of helpful material, especially for an inexperienced modeller or one that hasn't built a model in a while. Lots of well drawn diagrams as well as explanations of nautical terms as they relate to elements of a typical sailing ship. I think I will keep it handy as some of my projects progress.
  25. As far as I know there are no programs that will give you a 100% conversion without some manual touch up. I found it was easier to scan what you want insert the scan directly into CAD, scale it, and trace over the underlay. On bulkheads and frames etc you only have to trace half and mirror the other side. This way you can correct any errors in the original. Don
  26. It seems to me that back when I was still working in civil engineering and we scanned old drawings into autocad there was a routine that would remove unwanted discontinuous line segments from the scanned file. But sometimes it removed too much and some lines had to be restored manually.
  27. Every time I start a new project I have wondered how easy it would be to scan the bulkheads from drawing, have them converted into vector format and then scale them in CAD & finally cut the bulkheads with a CNC mill. But all the programs I have studied need enormous work to clean all the unwanted pixels from the drawing. I wonder if there exist any programs that make this cleaning automatically?
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