-
Posts
5,964 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by James H
-
-
HobbyZone USA is the US reseller and they don't make the products themselves.
- Canute, mtaylor and Scottish Guy
-
3
-
-
1 hour ago, Tankerman said:
Please keep politics out of it.
Agreed.
- Canute, thibaultron, Mark P and 3 others
-
6
-
I've used Swann Morton scalpels since I was about 12yrs old, so I'm very used to them.
A few years ago, I switched to their retractable handles which hold the same blades. For blades, I use 10a, 11 and 15 (the latter are small curved blades which are great for awkward cuts and scraping).
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/scalpels-craft-knives/8477580/
- mtaylor, allanyed, GrandpaPhil and 2 others
-
5
-
1 hour ago, DaveBaxt said:
The problem I am having is sourcing this! I understand that Hobby zone are no longer making these. That is what I was informed by model boat shops here in the uk.
@DaveBaxt it's still shown on their website: https://www.hobbyzone.pl/en/3-boat-building-tools/ but temporarily unavailable. Might be worth emailing them direct.
- Canute, mtaylor, Scottish Guy and 1 other
-
4
-
It's half size, so around 3ft tall when complete, plus the base it stands on.
Quite a size! (also seriously heavy too)
- Old Collingwood, Egilman, mtaylor and 3 others
-
6
-
1 hour ago, Rik Thistle said:
James,
Great pictues as usual.
I've heard Sarah Connor is heading towards your house to stop the Terminator build being fully completed. Get your house security system upgraded ASAP, but don't buy a Smart SkyNet brand!
Richard
It's a real nice build. I know it's only a bolt/screw together job (with some CA in places), but it sure gives me something to do in between planking tasks etc. 🤣
- Rik Thistle, Egilman, lmagna and 4 others
-
7
-
-
- mtaylor, GrandpaPhil, Rik Thistle and 4 others
-
7
-
STAGE 88: ASSEMBLING THE LEFT HIP JOINT
As with the right hip, the inner joint case is slipped into the hip, followed by the ball joint. On top of that sits the outer plastic joint case. The thigh is sat up to the T-800 so the ball joint engages with the hip. This is then screwed into position. The outer cap is then screwed into place with four screws. At this stage the hip will STILL be loose. This is normal.
- mtaylor, lmagna, GrandpaPhil and 4 others
-
7
-
- mtaylor, Egilman, popeye the sailor and 5 others
-
8
-
STAGE 86: ASSEMBLE THE SHOULDER, AFFIX THE LEFT ARM TO THE BODY
A hip joint is included here, but that is reserved for the next stage. Fitting the arm to the body is very simple. The arm slots into position and a ratchet disc is glued into the shoulder joint connector. An Allen key is used to tighten everything up, and this is then used to slacken joints off later to pose the T-800. For now, I'll keep the pose fairly neutral.
- GrandpaPhil, mtaylor, Canute and 5 others
-
8
-
STAGE 85: EXTEND THE LOWER LEFT ARM, AND CONNECT IT TO THE HAND
To connect the hand to the forearm, pistons are needed for the forearm shafts. These will engage the ball joints on the back of the hand. These are now assembled and fitted as before, and the spring/tendon connectors are added to the hand. Those springs are then connected as per the opposite hand. Arm complete!
- marktiedens, Canute, mtaylor and 3 others
-
6
-
-
- Egilman, marktiedens, lmagna and 5 others
-
8
-
Pack 9
Here we are on the 75% mark on this build, and you really need space to store this when this pack is complete. The aim of this pack is to construct the complete left arm, hand, and and also a good chunk of the lower left leg. There is an amount of repetition here to the right arm, hand and leg, so as this build will primarily be for a magazine, I've done this pack as an abridged build.
STAGE 81: COMPONENTS FOR THE FOREARM AND THIRD FINGER OF THE LEFT HAND
The finger for this is assembled in the same way as the others, and still adding the neoprene tube to the joint BEFORE inserting the pin. It really is the only way to work this. Finger joints are all nice and stiff, with no floppiness. The forearm shafts are also assembled to the arm as they were on the right hand side.
- Canute, mtaylor, popeye the sailor and 4 others
-
7
-
-
16 minutes ago, maaaslo said:
nothing changed for me. i will keep buying my models the same way i always did. part build and abandoned from ebay. and when i fancy a paper model, i will travel home and order them in to be delivered there. i am from EU country, so have options.
regarding Chris's business, only time will tell how affected it is going to be.
I thought you were from Wickford, UK?
14 minutes ago, chris watton said:I think I will start a fresh thread soon, as this is long and now getting a little too off topic
That's an idea!
-
This is just incredible. I so want to do this with mine when the time comes.
- VTHokiEE, BobG and chris watton
-
3
-
She's coming along real quick. Looks like you'll be on the masts before too long.
-
- Keith Black, Rik Thistle, Canute and 3 others
-
6
-
No way am I jealous of that amazing work, no siree!
- Rustyj, FrankWouts and KentM
-
3
-
That really is coming to life. I know there's a lot of PE but it does fit beautifully and doesn't take too long.
😍
- Rustyj, FrankWouts and chris watton
-
3
-
15 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:
The text at Instruction 28 needs amending from anchor to Rowlock.
Whoops! My excuse was I was knackered when writing that up. I'll change it now.
EDIT: Fixed my mistake!
- Rustyj, hollowneck, Ryland Craze and 3 others
-
6
Hobby Knife Preference?
in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Posted
I've been using Swann Morton scalpels to cut timber for models for 20yrs, and for plastic/resin for almost 40yrs...BUT I sometimes use the No.10a for heavier work as they are less likely to break. However, I rarely get an SM No.11/15 blade break on me. I've probably had a couple break last year, so not many, and I use a lot of these.