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James H

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Posts posted by James H

  1. 22 minutes ago, Gaetan Bordeleau said:

    As the doctor said, scalpels were never intended to cut wood.

    For small uses,  it cuts well but for larger ones,  it is worthless  especially when you apply a small tangential push, it often breaks.

     

    I've been using Swann Morton scalpels to cut timber for models for 20yrs, and for plastic/resin for almost 40yrs...BUT I sometimes use the No.10a for heavier work as they are less likely to break. However, I rarely get an SM No.11/15 blade break on me. I've probably had a couple break last year, so not many, and I use a lot of these.

  2. I've used Swann Morton scalpels since I was about 12yrs old, so I'm very used to them.

     

    A few years ago, I switched to their retractable handles which hold the same blades. For blades, I use 10a, 11 and 15 (the latter are small curved blades which are great for awkward cuts and scraping).

     

    https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/scalpels-craft-knives/8477580/

     

    Screenshot 2021-01-30 at 14.20.16.png

     

    Screenshot 2021-01-30 at 14.20.25.png

     

     

  3. 1 hour ago, DaveBaxt said:

    The problem I am having is sourcing this! I understand that Hobby zone are no longer making these. That is what I was informed by model boat shops here in the uk.

    @DaveBaxt it's still shown on their website: https://www.hobbyzone.pl/en/3-boat-building-tools/ but temporarily unavailable. Might be worth emailing them direct.

  4. 1 hour ago, Rik Thistle said:

    James,

     

    Great pictues as usual.

     

    I've heard Sarah Connor is heading towards your house to stop the Terminator build being fully completed. Get your house security system upgraded ASAP, but don't buy a Smart SkyNet brand!

     

    Richard

     

     

     

    It's a real nice build. I know it's only a bolt/screw together job (with some CA in places), but it sure gives me something to do in between planking tasks etc. 🤣

  5. STAGE 88: ASSEMBLING THE LEFT HIP JOINT

    15.thumb.jpg.7f9719ccf8b83d4ef889ae72cc37accd.jpg

    As with the right hip, the inner joint case is slipped into the hip, followed by the ball joint. On top of that sits the outer plastic joint case. The thigh is sat up to the T-800 so the ball joint engages with the hip. This is then screwed into position. The outer cap is then screwed into place with four screws. At this stage the hip will STILL be loose. This is normal.

    16.thumb.jpg.9760543413f82efa5878a2d23b3c3e07.jpg

  6. STAGE 86: ASSEMBLE THE SHOULDER, AFFIX THE LEFT ARM TO THE BODY

    11.thumb.jpg.a91cafdcac19af79e69601421bc12d4f.jpg

    A hip joint is included here, but that is reserved for the next stage. Fitting the arm to the body is very simple. The arm slots into position and a ratchet disc is glued into the shoulder joint connector. An Allen key is used to tighten everything up, and this is then used to slacken joints off later to pose the T-800. For now, I'll keep the pose fairly neutral. 

    12.thumb.jpg.944499f8f9bf2abfa6dfa6d0ded9a55a.jpg

     

  7. STAGE 85: EXTEND THE LOWER LEFT ARM, AND CONNECT IT TO THE HAND

    9.thumb.jpg.52c2a3d68f68d8146d62de010f14d904.jpg

    To connect the hand to the forearm, pistons are needed for the forearm shafts. These will engage the ball joints on the back of the hand. These are now assembled and fitted as before, and the spring/tendon connectors are added to the hand. Those springs are then connected as per the opposite hand. Arm complete!

    10.thumb.jpg.0484490e070b0ce60dd9879aa2b6bb47.jpg

  8. Pack 9

    Here we are on the 75% mark on this build, and you really need space to store this when this pack is complete. The aim of this pack is to construct the complete left arm, hand, and and also a good chunk of the lower left leg. There is an amount of repetition here to the right arm, hand and leg, so as this build will primarily be for a magazine, I've done this pack as an abridged build. 

    STAGE 81: COMPONENTS FOR THE FOREARM AND THIRD FINGER OF THE LEFT HAND

    1.thumb.jpg.9d7e9e2c46b716da4da6ac52fc3d612c.jpg

    The finger for this is assembled in the same way as the others, and still adding the neoprene tube to the joint BEFORE inserting the pin. It really is the only way to work this. Finger joints are all nice and stiff, with no floppiness. The forearm shafts are also assembled to the arm as they were on the right hand side. 

    2.thumb.jpg.a4b7b226d578fe8f08223e2a01140bfa.jpg

  9. 16 minutes ago, maaaslo said:

    nothing changed for me. i will keep buying my models the same way i always did. part build and abandoned from ebay. and when i fancy a paper model, i will travel home and order them in to be delivered there. i am from EU country, so have options.

    regarding Chris's business, only time will tell how affected it is going to be.

     

    I thought you were from Wickford, UK?

     

     

    14 minutes ago, chris watton said:

    I think I will start a fresh thread soon, as this is long and now getting a little too off topic

    That's an idea!

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