James H

Nice looking kits, and a bolt rope already installed around the sails! That's a win for me.

I saw that mentioned. My apologies for missing that out!

Nice insight. Thank you! The instructions show the metal plates as needed sanding thinner. That makes me think they are aluminium. I have some thinner copper plate that I may yet use instead.

Sorry to hijack your Terror topic, but here's the review:

1:65 HMS Terror OcCre Catalogue # 12004 Available from OcCre for 99,95€ HMS Terror was a Vesuvius-class bomb ship built over two years at the Davy shipyard in Topsham, Devon, for the Royal Navy. Her deck was 31 m (102 ft) long, and the ship measured 325 tons burthen. The vessel was armed with two heavy mortars and ten cannons and was launched in June 1813.Terror was a specialized warship and a newly developed bomb vessel constructed for the Royal Navy in 1813. She participated in several battles of the War of 1812, including the Battle of Baltimore with the bombardment of Fort McHenry. (It was at this battle where the "Star-Spangled Banner" was written by Francis Scott Key, which later became the American national anthem.) She was converted into a polar exploration ship two decades later, and participated in George Back's Arctic expedition of 1836–1837, the Ross expedition of 1839 to 1843, and Sir John Franklin's ill-fated attempt to force the Northwest Passage in 1845, during which she was lost with all hands along with HMS Erebus. For the conversion for polar exploration work in the mid-1830s, Terror was refitted. Her design as a bomb ship meant she had an unusually strong framework to resist the recoil of her heavy mortars; thus, she could withstand the pressure of polar sea ice, as well. On 12 September 2016, the Arctic Research Foundation announced that the wreck of Terror had been found in Nunavut's Terror Bay, off the southwest coast of King William Island. The wreck was discovered 92 km (57 mi) south of the location where the ship was reported abandoned, and some 50 km (31 mi) from the wreck of HMS Erebus, discovered in 2014. The wreck was found in excellent condition. A wide exhaust pipe that rose from the outer deck was pivotal in identifying the ship. It was located in the same location where the smokestack from Terror's locomotive engine had been installed. The wreck was nearly 100 km (62 mi) south of where historians thought its final resting place was, calling into question the previously accepted account of the fate of the sailors, that they died while trying to walk out of the Arctic to the nearest Hudson's Bay Company trading post. The kit OcCre’s new HMS Terror kit, simply labelled ‘Terror’ is packed into a relatively small box for the model’s finished size but is fairly weighty. The glossy box has a laser-printed product sheet taped to the lid, containing a full colour shot of the finished model, plus a couple of smaller detail shots of the deck area. The box is designed with a cutaway panel which shows off the clear plastic fittings tray and its contents. Lifting off the lid reveals that tray fully and a set of A3 sheets which contain a history of the vessel, parts list, written instructions and also some masting drawings. Underneath this is a split-partition box which needs to have its tape lock cut through before you can open up things to properly reveal the contents. This box is choc-stuffed with materials, and I know that it will be difficult to fit everything back in once it’s removed. However, let’s take a look OcCre’s kit spec, and then at the contents more closely. SCALE: 1:65 HEIGHT: 504 mm WIDTH: 195 mm LENGTH: 676 mm DIFFICULTY: Low DOUBLE PLANK: Yes My eyes are immediately drawn to the large bundle of timber for the first planking layer. Here we have 72 strips of Ramin, which are 5mm x 2mm x 400mm. All strip timber is 400mm long. This is certainly some thick first layer planking and thicker than I’ve been used to. Timber quality here is excellent with good, clean edges and no splintered wood or mis-cutting. Our second bundle of timber has material for the deck (again in Ramin, but 0.6mm thick), and some darker timber for the hull second planking. The latter timber is Sapele and is again 0.6mm x 5mm. The latter can tend to split/breakout at the edges, so take care with it. Thankfully, the quality of this is also extremely good as my sample doesn’t show any rough edges. With this model, options are shown for a bare timber/varnished hull, and also a more accurate, painted version. I would lean towards the latter as the second planking colour wouldn’t look right to me. The last bundle of timber has both strip wood and dowel of various diameters. Most strip wood is again in Ramin, but of various section sizes, plus one length of as yet unidentified darker timber. All dowel lengths are supplied as Ramin, and cleanly cut. All wood has good grain and isn’t at all flaky or with rough edges. All bundles are also held together with elastic bands instead of the tape we see in some kits. All other wooden parts are packaged into a sealed clear wrapping, along with a pre-sewn sail pack. Inside the pack, we see the false keel and main deck as items that are ready to use and don’t need removing from any sheets. Like the bulkheads and other main assembly components, these are laser-cut from plywood. A quick check down the length of the false keel shows that everything looks true, and without warp. Where parts need to be removed from their sheet, the small tags are thin enough to be able to just nip through with a craft knife. Also note that no parts have any engraving on them for identification. You should mark all parts manually, in accordance with the included parts plan. A slightly darker plywood of a higher grade is used for smaller components, such as the mast tops and the various support structures for them. Laser-cutting is clean and again, all parts should be easy to remove. Take care when doing so though as this sheet is absolutely packed out with parts. Here we see a walnut-stained piece of ply that contains the parts for the keel and rudder. Note the rudder is cut out to accept the propeller. Remember that Terror was steam as well as sail. Again, I’ll be painting my model, so the stained appearance of this ply won’t matter to me. Our final timber parts for the bulwarks and are made from thin ply. These are cut out to accept cannon etc. and are suitably thin enough to be able to shape to the curvature of the hull. No clean-up is required before installation. Some kits provide sail cloth whereas this provides actual sewn sails! I think you may need to sew a bolt rope to these, but that is it. You’ll also note that the sails are pre-aged, so no need to dunk them in vats of tea etc. A large zip-lock bag contains no less than SEVEN packets of nicely formed brass nails, all of which seems to be well-formed with good sharp tips and properly defined heads. Also inside this bag are 5 spools of natural colour rigging cord of various diameters and 6 more of dark brown, again in varying sizes. Material quality looks excellent and I can’t see a need to purchase extra material. The bow of Terror was plated in iron to help protect it against pack ice. This kit provides what appear to be either thin aluminium or zinc plates which can be formed around that area to represent the large plate sheathing that was utilised. As with many model kits these days, Terror is equipped with a sheet of photo-etch parts. This single, bare-brass fret is equipped with parts for the rear gallery windows and chainplates. Production is as good as any PE I’ve dealt with. You’ll need a razor saw or similar to remove the parts from the fret before use. Some cack-handed handling of my kit during shipping resulted in the clear box being broken in one corner, but thankfully, all the components within were ok, despite some being unintentionally redistributed within the main box! This box is very similar to how Artesania pack their components, and I quite like the format. Each compartment has numerous fixtures and fittings, from stock materials such as brass rod and stars/grating components, to cast items such as cannon, ship’s boats, anchors, drive propeller, ship’s wheels, wooden parts such as the deadeyes, brass pintles and chain, and flags etc. Essentially, this is where all the minor and major detail components are stored. Two sets of paper instructions are enclosed in this kit, printed on A3 paper and folded/stapled. The black and white sheets contain the vessel history, parts inventory, deck layout for parts placement, and some nice, clear masting drawings. The colour sheets show construction of Terror as a photographic experience, with simple and clear annotation. Illustrations also exist for masting and rigging, plus the parts map that you’ll need for marking the various laser-cut components. Conclusion For many years I’ve wanted to get my hands on an OcCre model kit to see just what they offer in terms of design, materials and quality. This new kit is quite apt as I’ve seen the fictional TV series mentioned online, plus I decided to visit Topsham on holiday next week, where Terror was built. I’m certainly not disappointed at all at this beautiful little offering from OcCre, and I can’t wait to dig into it in a few weeks, once I have some commitments. Materials quality is extremely nice, and the whole design is very pleasing and looks like it will be a joy to build. My sincere thanks to OcCre for sending out this kit for review/build on MSW. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of this article.

I'll have a review of that for you by the close of Saturday.

Hi all, This isn't so much a build log, but a step by step of this new and amazing Lego kit. It has secret phone in the driver's door, detailed engine, machine guns at front that swivel via the gear stick, switchable licence plates, rising bulletproof panel at rear, opening boot, and the roof pulls back and passenger seat ejects by pulling a section of the rear bumper. A gorgeous project!

I haven’t built the tracks yet. I need to install sleepers and rails and the associated hardware. At the moment I’m using the base to sit the train on.

My bench is as you see, but to the right is a photographic setup I mostly use for my magazine work. So I build on the bench and then photograph straight after. This model is just too big to do all photos in that area, hence many bench photos.

Genius...

Lovely work Danny 😎

This is massive! What a great project 👍

Any scale

Firstly, my thanks to Amati for sending this kit out to be reviewed and built here at MSW. The Orient Express 1929 Sleeping Car comes in a very large and heavy box which is chock full of laser-cut timber, brass/silver-nickel photo-etch, cast and turned parts, trip wood, brass section lengths, decals, etc. and two amazing glossy instruction manuals. You'll need a few basic tools for this, such as a good bench vice, craft knives, metal files and small drill bits, screwdrivers and pliers. Optional items are a soldering iron and a blowtorch. You will need some abrasive paper, superglue and some good wood glue. Work starts by removing the two thick plywood chassis frames from their sheets and gluing them together. From here, the photo etch chassis frames are added with superglue and bolted together amidships. You will find a lot of holes in the photo-etch, need to be drilled out for the two different sizes of bolt that are supplied in this kit. Brass strip is added to each side of the chassis whilst the frame is dry-sat on the ply platform. This creates a recess into which the platform with later sit. The platform is now finally glued into place and clamped so that it's totally flat. A mixture of 50:50 PVA and water is applied to the underside of the chassis, sealing it in readiness for the paint. Games Workshop 'Chaos Black' is now sprayed over the underside, using a rattle-can. I did try airbrushing this, but it was too big a job, and the coverage of this spray paint is amazing. It also dries very quickly. It was now time to open up some of the small bags of fittings. Her you see the buffer suspension. These needed to be drilled out to allow them to plug together. As they are cast, this was an easy task. The buffer suspension units are now fitted to the chassis ends. Underneath the chassis are fitted a compressed gas tank and some battery boxes. You will find that heating up the brass for the tank will help it to be bent far more easily. Here you can see the completed tank and battery boxes. Solder was used for the main joint, and superglue for the rest. Note that one box had to have ply feet added as the legs were too short. The battery boxes and tank are now fitted. The photo-etch in this model can be quite thick, and in some cases, almost 1mm thick. You will need a saw to cut through the main tags. The first bogey took me 3 days to get to this stage. I found that adding heat to the part before bending made it WORSE! Don't do it! Learn from my mistake and use careful and selective bending techniques to make this. I went through this pain so you don't have to. Small nuts and bolts are used to fasten things together. More cast parts for the suspension here, and yes, more drilling out to make the various pins etc. fit into place. Note with this first bogey, I was painting things as I went along. ...including the main frame: Cast and turned parts are included for the wheels and axles etc. More brass parts for the braking mechanism. Complete with all paint chips, here is the completed bogie. Total construction time was ONE WHOLE WEEK!! However, after learning from my mistakes, I built the second bogie in only SIX HOURS! Both bogies were now spray painted in black. Uschi van der Rosten steel weathering pigments were now used to weather the bogies and chassis. More weathering will be added when the track is complete. Fitting the Head A & B ply floor sections proved troublesome as the underlying photo-etch made them too thick. I reduced the thickness of these by half. Head A & B bulkheads were fitted by the temporary help of the carriage end bulkheads. With these in place, the internal frames were now completed, and the side wall test-fitted. Each cabin floor was now test-fitted: ...including the corridor floor: Pritt Stick was used to affix the paper carpet parts to the floor sections. And the floor sections finally glued into position. More soon!!!!

Hi all, My build log for this amazing Amati kit will start here very shortly as soon as I've edited the photos. This is a large project at 1/32, and is a multimedia kit constructed from wood, metal and paper.

Hi all, Whilst ships are what we generally do, we all like a little distraction, or downtime where we can explore other areas of creativity. This could be rail, aircraft, cars, or even totally different subjects. This forum is for you to post your work and show us another side to your creativity.

How is this progressing? Looking forward to seeing how you tackle this one.

Can you not fit some props between the deck and the thin frames, until the planking is complete? These can then just be removed.

You'll be as high as a kite after using Evo on that entire lower hull 🤣

It looks neatly done. Are the lines gaps between planks?

Nice to have you here Victor. I hope you get the answers you need.

Subscribed to this 🍿

Stunning! Lovely work, Rusty.

Thanks for that insight, Ron, and sharing that photo. I'm real pleased that you found it a good build, even with your changes and improvements. You must have the patience of a saint to mask all those painted areas!

Cheers. I'll add it.