thibaultron

One consideration is top match the light you are modeling with, with the light you will be displaying your models with. While not as big a consideration with wood ships, if you paint your models, the colors may be off if the two types of light are different. This is an important point for model railroaders.

In my Model Railroad Club, we have a saying, "We always get it right, the fourth or fifth time!"

Merry Christmas, to you also!

Merry Christmas to you too Frank! Glad to hear the treatments are done. I hope you can get back to building again soon! Best wishes!

I read the Red Bay books on the Basque whaling ships of the 1500s. Same thing. Different materials used from frame to frame, random hull planking, including one short plank that only went between adjacent frames. The tree nails in the hull were drilled with the left one at the top and the second below and to the right of it in some sections, and the opposite in others, etc.

Welcome aboard!

Sinagot Fishing Boat – Heller – 1/60 – Plastic - Small PART 8 Finally got a chance, last week, to get back to painting. Major fail! Seems I need a lot more practice with masking and brush painting. One thing I definitely need is to either get a second magnifying light for the spray booth, or bring my workbench one over when I’m painting. My eyes are definitely getting older! Anyway, to start with I found a neat item I’m using as a paint bottle holding tray at Dollar Tree. I think it was in the cosmetic section. It has one large section that is great for the larger primer bottles, and 8 smaller sections, just right for holding a bottle of Vallejo paint. For the upper hull I’m using Vallejo Model Color Black and I’ll be using Model Color Sky Blue for the interior. The blue is not quite a direct match for the Humbrol blue supplied with the kit, but it is close. I noticed that while masking the hull I damaged the thin plastic traveler. I will try to repair it later. I may have to fashion a wire replacement, as there is still quite a lot of handling to be done in the future. So I masked off the bottom of the hull and the railing, then I painted on diluted white and hull red at the tape joints to try and seal them, but either I did not burnish the tape down enough, or I lifted the tape with the brush. Burnishing over the cast in wood grain is difficult to start with, so that may also be contributing factor. Here is what I found after removing the tape. I also managed to get some of the paint on my gloves, and onto other areas of the model.

I use the scan, then trace method using DesignCAD and the Curve function (a type of Spline curve). After that I use the 3D feature of my CAD to place the frames in position, and draw in the horizontal water lines connecting the frames. By viewing them from the top, I can see any deviations from a smooth flow of the lines. I then redraw the curves skipping the frame with the "bad spot". Then I bump that part of the frame in/out to meet the new line. I then redraw, and check that the lines are now smooth. Generally a couple of iterations will give me good frames. This works well where you are just given the frames drawn, but no body plan. I was able to generate all the aft frames of an old kit, where the frames did not even come close to making a hull, as drawn. If the drawing was acurate. I think the manufacturer deliberately distorted aft frame drawings, so that you had to buy the kit, to build the model.

The Model Ship Builder forum has a thread on a scratch built version. You may get some info from it.

My panting skills where further aided by my cat! It was very cold, for here, yesterday and she slipped into the shop. Normally she goes off and hides, so I can't put her back out. Yesterday, however, once I got started painting she came over and sat on my lap, and kept bumping my arm, for attention! I didn't want to put her back out in the cold, and if I took her back to the house, I would have had to clean up all the paint "stuff" first. At least there are no cat hairs in the finish!

Got a bit more painting done. I'll post pictures later. Still need to improve my skills in this area.

Thanks. I was hoping there was some trick I couldn't think of.

Also take into consideration availability. Look for a local source. The best CA on the market, will be of little use, if you run out in the middle of a session, and have to wait while you mail order more, or until you can drive a long distance to get more. While you should keep track and order more in time, some times you forget, or the glue, for whatever reason, sets up on you between modeling sessions.

Chuck, a question about the mast step. Could you have positioned the mast without gluing the little square mast step, temporarily attached it, then used it as a guide to drill the hole in the floor boards? If so, how would you go about temporarily attaching it? Just a question, not a criticism.

Following along jct

Did some more painting today. This time I was using a brush. I repainted the spars, as the airbrush did a poor job on them. I also hit the interior areas of the hull that the airbrush could not reach. I did have to add a little water to the Stynylrez to get it to flow well with the brush. Tomorrow, I'll paint the ends of the spars now being held by clothespins. I've also been slowly translating the Sinagot book from French. I hit a snag though. While on vacation, I was using my laptop, and it picked up a virus. I had to do a full scan of it and the external drive. It took 35 hours. Now I'm rescanning it to verify that I got it. Once that is done, I'll transfer the files to my desktop, and continue.

My condolences, also. One of the worst ways to go.

In DesignCAD you can also goto "File/Image/Save Image File" to save a graphic of the screen/drawing. I don't know if TurboCAD has a similar command.

Looks like they fall on the frames too. In any case you can always plank with full length stock, and scribe in the butt joints as each plank is in place, but before the next is laid. If using butt blocks, they can be glued in opposite the scribed joint. Saves trying to do it with shorter lengths.

Great Job JCT

In reading about the history of the British navy, there was one Admiral who was, both extreemly egotisical and sadistic, his favorite tactic was to call captain to his ship, while keeping it under full sail. It could take hours for the Captian's longboat to reach his ship! Perhaps the contemperary model with the extra thole pins were a response to adding extra rowers for this situation. By the way he is also the person who, when he became a Lord, fired all the elderly workers at the Navy dockyards, putting them pennyless onto the streets, as a cost saving measure. In the past the workers had been given small or light tasks, when they became to fraile with age or illness, after they had worked the heavy labor at the yards for years.

I'm following! Great tutorial!

Thanks for the reminder!

I wish I remembered all those years of French I took, 45 years ago!

I have the Red Bay books, and can also recommend them!