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Posts posted by Blue Ensign
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I think they were used on the Foc'sle to frame the area around the central openings for the steam gratings / chimney, but I agree they did not seem to feature on the Quarterdeck framing due to the less weight borne by that deck, compared to the Upper deck.
B.E.
- jpalmer1970 and Thukydides
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2
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Post Eighty
Knees
Three full days’ work sees the completion of the Fo’csle deck framing.
There are four styles of knees used on the foc’sle and waist, many of them location specific.
Each needs cleaning and painting prior to use, and I found a sanding band/ mandrel made quick work of removing heavy char from these small fittings. I used a Proxxon 60/EF drill for the purpose, but any other similar tool (Dremel) would serve equally well.
Once cleaned and painted, Plan sheet 4 gives the location for fitting, and I’m good to go.
The phrase ‘good to go’ belies the very fiddly process of fitting these knees.
1369
I start at the Bow and once the fore-most Lodging knees are fitted the fun begins.
1368
I attend to the Hanging knees first, some of these are referred to as ‘dummy’ and are a fore shortened version to avoid fouling gun-ports. I fitted these first.
2080
As I expected fitting proved tricky, the full-length knees even more problematical, getting the vertical arm and horizontal knee to match the deck beam and quickworks was a tad trying to say the least.
2081
I found it necessary to adjust the angle of the knee where it joins the deck beam.
I took the approach of fitting the bulwark part and then trimming the knee angle to lie flush with the deck beam.
2079
The remaining Lodging knees which proved far less trouble, fitted neatly between the beam and hanging knee.
1366
I am not adding the Ledges that fit between the carlings and knees as these would obscure a lot of the view, which would defeat my purpose.
1372
I think the addition of these fittings adds immensely to the look of a ‘Navy Board’ style model.
2083
The paintwork took a hit during fitting, but I will attend to this once the larger exercise of fitting the Qtr deck is completed.
B.E.
20/09/2023
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Hi Dave,
I think I thinned it to the consistency of skimmed milk and applied it quickly using a broad chisel brush. I too use silkspan, or modelspan as it is now called as it has good strength qualities.
Use of a hairdryer once applied, eliminates any risk of puddling, but the beauty of Silk/modelspan is that it can be re-wetted multiple times, particularly useful for sail shaping on the model.
B.E.
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Post Seventy-nine
Foc’sle (Part 2)
2073
The Foc’sle beams are fixed into place.
2074
Temporary props are used to support the breast beam whilst the carlings set.
2070
2067
The foremost beam of the Foc’sle deck is an mdf version, originally designed to incorporate the Bowsprit step.
To match the other beams, the top was faced with 0.6mm pear.
With the beams now fixed I move onto the Hanging and lodging knees.
This is a prep intensive exercise with char removal, painting, and fettlin’ to fit.
Those opting to fully deck the model need have little concern for such detail, as it will all be covered, but I would probably have done them anyway, given that Chris has taken the trouble to provide them.
B.E.
17/09/2023
- Ronald-V, chris watton, bruce d and 18 others
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21
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Post Seventy-eight
Foc’sle
More cleaning up of heavy char and a dry fit of the Foc’sle beams.
2056
2063
2064
2065
The beams and carlings slot easily into place, less trouble than the Qtr deck.
Hopefully the Foc’sle breast beam will stiffen up once it is glued into place and the carlings added.
Another round of painting now ensues, followed by the addition of hanging and lodging knees.
Chris has kindly provided the lodging knees with the Indy kit, which saves me the tiresome task of making them as I did with the Sphinx build.
Thanks Chris.👍
B.E.
16/09/2023
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Thank you Theo,
A lot of praise should go to Chris whose designs and thoughtful build methods make us all look good, or at least better than we would otherwise. Chuck has a similar effect with his designs, and clear build processes.
Even so, below that smooth surface, I’m churning water, and catch myself clenching my teeth working on the trickier bits.
If I have a quality, it is a determination to slow down on a build and fight against the ‘that’ll do’ approach. I do strive to improve my builds, not always with full success, but I’m a lot harder on myself than I used to be.
I see the same approach in your work.
B. E.
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Post seventy-seven
Waist Beams
This section completes the framing over the waist.
1286
1285
The beams slotted into place without issue.
I’m glad I made the decision to replace the beam supports over the head ledges with ‘iron’ stanchions on my particular build.
The shipyard is now closing for a week.
Cheers,
B.E.
08/09/2023.
- SIDEWAYS SAM, ECK, Thukydides and 21 others
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Thank you Ron, I hadn’t thought of that layout, I’ll be playing around with various options using card templates before I commit. I need to make up an example of the carronades and 12 pounder long to see how they impact on the deck space.
As far as photo distortion is concerned, it’s not reflected on the actual model, so I’m not overly concerned.
B.E.
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Simply magnificent Marc, what a display of artistry👏
B.E.
- mtaylor and Hubac's Historian
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1
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Post Seventy-six
Carlings
These slot beautifully into the beam mortises.
2002
I use clamps to ensure they sit right down once glue is applied.
2005
Only the outer carlings, adjoining the breast beam, were a tad slack in the fit, and needed a little fettlin’.
2022
2021
The more I look at this framework, the less I want to cover it up.
2023
It will be an interesting exercise to work out how I can use the minimum planking to the best effect.
As I move on forward of the Qtr deck I had a change of heart about using the kit provided pillars atop the head ledges.
2006
They somehow look out of place, maybe because I raised and cambered the head ledges.
2016
2017
From this point on I decided to use ‘iron’ stanchions, they suited my eye better for this position.
I will continue to use the provided pillars for the deck located beam supports.
Moving onto the Foc'sle framing.
B.E.
06/09/2023
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Post Seventy-five
Fitting the Qtr deck beams
With the Qtr deck beams painted, fitting can begin.
1997
Slow and careful is the order of the day. Moving from aft forward each beam is test fitted before gluing, and the central support pillars gradually trimmed to height to fit beneath the beams without forcing the camber.
1998
Constant checking is a necessity.
If plan sheet 3 is used to aid location, there is a note to leave beam 14 off until part 103 (Carling) is fitted.
This would be a mistake as it would prove very difficult if not impossible to retro fit 14 after the following beams have been fitted.
Section 373 of the manual provides an alternative and more practical solution.
1991
I had a brief moment of panic fitting the final deck beam of the set (No9). I was expecting that it would be fully supported by the Main Jeer Bitt standards. Not so, it only catches the forward edge.(by design)
1989
The final beam is the Qtr deck breast beam supported at its centre by the Main Topsail sheet Bitts standards.
Before fitting I gave it the heat treatment secured over the former, to ensure the camber was properly set.
1993
1999
1996
The Capstan barrel extends down to the lower deck and will be trimmed to height once the Upper capstan is seated on the QD step.
1995
I do like the shaped breast beam of these Ardent class ships.
1994
The final step will be to add the carlings.
B.E.
05/09/2023
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Post Seventy-four
Stanchions on my mind
I wasn’t really satisfied with my pillar conversion, so I had a play around with metal.
1969
Using square brass tubing (2.3mm) with the original wooden pillar tab inserted, I formed the foot of the stanchion. 1.5mm square section brass was used for the stanchion, ca’d into the top of the foot.
1971
1974
Chemically blackened, they provide a stronger contrast to the wooden support pillars.
1975
I think they look more representative of ‘iron’ stanchions.
I will finish the top end brackets once I have the determined the correct height, as I fit the deck beams.
The kit ladderway stanchions (or newels)are represented by brass etched posts with an eye, thro’ which line is threaded.
On my builds from Pegasus onwards I have passed over kit stanchions in favour of something more stylish.
For the stanchions I am using the same system I adopted for Pegasus, which was based on the detail in the fffm Vol 11.
6989(2)
The makings involve having donor stanchions, the ones I use are 0.9mm ø with a 1.3mm finial. For the rings 0.3mm eyelets, (Caldercraft) are used, and 0.5mm ø brass rod for the rails.
1253
A spot of silver soldering is required to bring it all together.
Silver solder paste in two melt points 690º and 671º are required.
7044
Full details of the procedure can be found in my Pegasus log (page 4 – post 91) but I used the same process on my Sphinx build (above)
1983
Main ladderway.
1986
Aft Ladderway.
1987
Main Hatch ladderway.
Forward to the Qtr deck beams.
B.E.
03/09/2023
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Post Seventy-three
Back to the decks.
Pre-occupied with the deck beams I nearly forgot about the gundeck ironwork.
The kit provides etched eyebolts for the Training (relieving) tackle connection.
These should strictly be ringbolts and I used 2mm rings and Amati fine eyebolts to make up the required number running along the deck binding strakes.
1950
For the first three sets aft of the Riding Bitts I have used 3mm rings to represent the stopper bolts.
Apart from any other consideration ring bolts look nicer when looking down on the deck of a model.
There is then the shaped deck support pillars and in particular those within the area of the Capstan.
1956
There are four within the radius of the Capstan bars which even with a modest scale 9’ length would impede movement.
I think these would more likely be hinged iron supports that could be lifted out of the way when the capstan was in use.
1963
I have modified the pillars to represent such items, and which from the available viewing point would probably pass muster, at least to a blind man on a galloping horse.
1958
1967
I still may re-visit the iron stanchions and try a 1mm ø brass tube version.
B.E.
31/08/2023
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Happy Birthday Kevin, you mean you have something better to do than ship modelling.😉
B.E.
- chris watton, mtaylor, AJohnson and 1 other
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Looking good Kevin, add weights to those pendants and coat them with pva, it will help them hang straight, and impart a more realistic 'heaviness' to them.
B.E.
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Thanks Glenn, I'd better look in on your Winnie and see how it should be done, before I go much further.😊
B.E.
Mary Rose by Mr Pleasant - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:80
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
Posted
Well done Mark on producing a fine looking model, I like the look of her.
This kit is not the easiest to deal with, and bluff bowed ships, not the easiest to plank.
ps that's a very nice mouse you produced, great weave effect.👍
B.E.