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Blue Ensign
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Hi Ferit, I’m not very familiar with that arrangement because with British ships some time around the mid to late seventeenth century the make-up of the stern timbers changed. I believe it is referred to as from a square tuck to a round tuck at the stern. Prior to the round tuck the rudder was as shown on your Berlin with the rudder head completely outside of the hull and with the tiller taken in thro’ a square hole below the transom. Because the hole had to be large enough to allow movement of the tiller, it presented problems in keeping out water. With the round tuck the stern post and rudder head lengths were increased and the rudder head was taken up inside the ship thro’ the much smaller helm port and the tiller was entirely within the ship. I understand that many European Navies retained the old style arrangement for some years after the British had changed, so the arrangement on your Berlin would appear to be entirely in keeping with the period. The use of a whipstaff which was the primary methods of steering for larger ships of the period would be operated under both stern arrangements. Sorry if my original comment raised a doubt in your mind. Regards, B.E. -
You have made a fine job of Badger Mike, your guns and rigging look impressive and I particularly like the fineness you have achieved with the topmasts. Regards, B.E.
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Interesting stern post and rudder arrangement Ferit, but beautifully executed. Love the carved work beneath the transom. B.E.
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Bob, the part isn't listed on site, and I had to speak to Axminster on the telephone to order the item. The bed is listed in the manual that comes with the lathe; it is 27020-31 (Maschinenbett) I initiated my enquiry with Proxxon Tools UK, who put me onto Axminster. ps the headstock is the left end with the chuck on it, there is a hole through the centre of the machine that allows the work to protrude out the end. The Tailstock on the right travels along the bed to fix the work piece. Look forward to seeing your completed bee stripes in due course B.E.
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Hello again Bob, here's a couple of mock-up pics of how the set up looks. One of the attractions of the DB250 for me is the compactness, don't need a lot of room to work it, and it handles most of my modelling jobs. My idea when I set it up is to have a detachable baseboard for the extension bed, or perhaps have it hinged in some way to fold back behind the machine board or maybe beneath it. That way I can retain the benefit of the small size, but extend it to around 30" workable length when required. I don't know if flex would become an issue at that length but I have worked on 8mm dowel up to 18" in length without a problem. Cheers, B.E.
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That's a very nice build you have developing there Bob. I have the Proxxon DB250 lathe, it is a fine little machine, but as you say working on longer spars can be a problem. I haven't put it into practice yet but I purchased a spare lathe bed( 27020-31 Replacement bed for micro lathe (part no PRO000160) £39.00.) Fixed to a board against and in line with the machine bed, the tailstock can be re-positioned to give effectively more than twice the available working length, but as I said I haven't yet trialled it at maximum distance. This is the company in the UK where I got the spare item, it had to be ordered, and took about three weeks to arrive. http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-shopproxxon_pg1/#filterkey=interest&page=1&interest=MODELLING Regards, B.E.
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Beautiful work Juergen, a fine model developing. Regards, B.E.
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Hi Sid, The standard practice for British ships of War in the eighteenth century was to paint the lower masts yellow with that portion of the mast from the cap to the lower part of the hounds black. The topmasts were usually varnished with again that portion just below the hounds to the mast head also painted black. The part of the topmast between the lower mast cap and the mast top were also painted black. With regard to Pickle, Jotika suggest staining the masts walnut, which I found not very attractive. On my build I coloured them with satin light oak varnish enhanced with a touch of natural wood finish, as I prefer to use as little paint as possible. The yards as you say were usually painted black. Hope this helps. B.E.
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You show great ingenuity in your build Revier, a very interesting log to follow; She is developing beautifully. Well done. B.E.
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Great progress Augie, love that last shot, all the rigging looks to be beautifully in scale. Syren makes such an attractive model. Well done. B.E.
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Nice shots of the masthead Peter, looks very business like with the jeer strops, shrouds and stay collars all in place. The use of a long tackle block in a span for the lifts is indicated by Steel,(1794) and is shown by Lees as being applicable between 1719 and 1806, but then somewhat confusingly goes on to say that from about 1760 the block was seized to an eyebolt in the cap rather than being fitted with a span. this seems to be the system favoured by Antscherl who shows a single block hooked to an eyebolt beneath the forward end of the cap. I will also be going with a Long tackle block if only because they are a more interesting feature. Sorry about the mizen mishap, I hope the jury rig holds, not too much stress on the topmast. Cheers, B.E.
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Hi Mark, Boudriot gives quite a lot of detail about the pumps in his Seventy-four Gun ship book Volume two, too much for me to copy here. However, the shaft you can see on the video is called the spear and it is made of Fir; attached to the spear are the chocks (hourglass) to which the brake handle is attached via a rope hooked to a grommet secured around the chocks. If you need more detailed info send me a pm and I will try and expand on the Boudriot narrative. Regards, B.E.
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Those fenders and chesstrees are tricky little beggars to fit, but you have made a nice job of them Jason, well done B.E.
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Well she certainly looks better, and these things we fixate on tend to fade as more detail is put on the model to divert the eye. Glad you feel happier about her now. I like the colour contrast you are achieving. Cheers, B.E.
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She is looking magnificent Michael, great shot of the stern and the intricate work around the galleries. I love the contrast between the painted figures and the natural finish to the hull. Well done. B.E.
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not by me you ain't... M.
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Sorry you've hit this problem hamilton, it's so frustrating when a desired plan fails to work. I think the question you have to ask yourself is which is the most important feature that will contribute to a successful look or otherwise to the completed hull. If I may venture an opinion, I would say the positioning of the wales; if the run of the wales isn't correct then the graceful sheer lines and balance of the hull will never look good. You are not that far advanced, would it not be possible to blank off the sweep ports and redo the wales first, which will allow for a decent run of planking up to the topline, and a better proportion to the below waterline hull. You would then be in a better position to gauge the line of the sweep ports which if re-cutting them proves too testy could at least be represented by closed blanks. I do hope you resolve the problem to your satisfaction. Cheers, B.E.
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That Carronade is beautifully finished Jason, and the rounded blocks are great improvement. The trick with side tackles is not to let them overwhelm the gun. I tend to use 0.1mm diameter line which provides a nice scale contrast with the breeching ropes. Cheers, B.E.
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Nice work Robert, all that frustration will soon fade from mind. Is that a nice bit of inlay work I spy on the Capstan head? Regards, B.E.
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I think you made the right decision Timmo, the wooden moulding is somehow more appropriate and what a fine job you have done on it. Enjoy your ale. Cheers, B.E.
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The strange thing is Peter, the tops look ok when put on the model, it was only when I came to fit the trestletrees that the lubber hole question arose. I'm a bit annoyed with this setback as I don't really want to have to start re jigging the tops, especially as the Fore top is already fitted. I have now re-drawn the tops to Steel's dimensions on the back of an envelope, and both the Fore and Main are a fraction undersize but nothing one can't live with. bxxxxr Sorry to have introduced this niggling note into your log B.E.
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Thanks Peter, nice pics and obviously not much room to hold a party on there! The more I look at the Mizen top the less happy I am. The dimensions simply don't relate to Steel. For instance the breadth of the top is given as 1/3rd the length of the topmast. The topmast is 26' 9" ergo the breadth of the top should be 42.5mm @ 1:64 scale. Applying this ratio to the kit plans we have a topmast length of 123mm (excl the pole head) 1/3rd of which = 41mm., the kit provided top has a width of 33mm. The provided cross and trestletrees are the same section as those for the Fore and Main Mast, yet the Steel dimensions for these are relative to the diameter of the Topmasts. The given Topmast diameter is 7¼” The depth of the trestletrees is ½ of the topmast diameter, and the thickness 2/3rds of the depth. From this we derive a scale thickness of 0.95mm. as opposed to 3mm as provided in the kit. Using the kit dimensions of 4mm dia. dowel for the topmast the scale would work out to 1.3mm thick trestletrees. It is becoming clear why there is no room for a lubbers hole in the kit provided top. Incidently if you look at remco's Kingfisher log there are photos of his completed tops, and the the Mizen looks far bigger in relation to the Fore and Main, than the kit provided set. I think I need to ponder this awhile yet...... Regards, B.E.
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She's looking really good hamilton, you surely are moving along apace with this build, I'm looking forward to the detailing soon to take place. Cheers, B.E.
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Looking good Peter, nice work on the ratlines. Regarding the Mizen Top, do you think that the trestle/cross trees are two heavy for the Top? I've just started looking at this and there hardly seems to be a Lubbers hole space left between the top and the Trestletrees. Regards, B.E.
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