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Blue Ensign
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Everything posted by Blue Ensign
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Neat work Timmo, looks excellent. If you don't like the finish of the Belfry roof you could always simulate a 'lead' covering using tape which would not be out of keeping. On Peagsus I applied a 'copper' roof using self adhesive copper tape. Cheers, B.E. -
Love those last two shots Juergen, what a fine model she is. Regards, B.E.
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Great result Daniel M.
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Its down to personal preference I think Nils, the Amati plates are quite easy to apply using thick ca and again the set can be purchased separately. Any misplacements are easily removed sometimes with the assistance of a little acetone. Pegasus was coppered from the outset, but with neat hull planking and given your particular approach to your build there is no reason why you couldn't leave one side uncoppered, perhaps even applying plates to the 'open' side only to show the effect or vice versa. Whatever, you decide I'm sure you will achieve a good result. Cheers, B.E.
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Hi Nils, I suppose if you go with gangplanks the ladderway is not needed. Having a ladderway in that position does solve the practical problem of gun fouling, but doesn't the deck beam foul access to the Fo'csle? - or are you intending to modify the beam by the addition of ledges and carlings to form the hatchway? The swivel gun modifications are looking good, those hooks I modified for the mountings are available as a separate purchase so you don't need to use up the kit supplied ones. Regards, B.E.
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Looks good Bob B.E.
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Nice work on the rigging Peter, and the cutter is looking pretty neat. I think some sort of chocking is necessary, but I've not been able to identify the how or what from contemporary models as yet. Cheers, B.E.
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Love the Figure Christian, she has a very classical look. B.E.
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Beautiful looking gun Gary, nice work on the carriage. What size line did you use for the breeching? 7" circumference rope was used on a 32 pounder. I'm not sure that was the way the breeching rope was secured on a non Blomefield pattern gun. I think the breeching was either taken a turn around the neck of the cascable from one side to the other, or was spliced around the cascable. ps On this side of the pond we call those plugs that fit in the muzzles 'Tompions', and the iron work that secures the trunnions the Cap Squares. The key is secured through the Joint Bolt over which the hinged cap square fits. I would need to think a little about the messenger cables and its getting late. Daniel (Dafi) has done extensive research on the messenger set up and a visit to his Victory build may be beneficial. Regards, B.E.
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Hello Nils, re the English terms used in shipbuilding - here's a little schematic I did on the plans to help me sort out what was what. Hope this helps. B.E.
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She's coming together very nicely Nils, a neat little jig you have made for cap squares. I think the Eking / lower Rails and Main Rails could do with a little more fining and tapering as they run to meet the the Hairbracket at the head, but the main thing is to get those tricky little rails in place, they then can be fine tuned. One of the reasons I fitted gangplanks on my Pegasus was because I couldn't accept the strange fit of the Foc'sle ladders, but does your new ladderway foul the first gun position? As you are leaving half the deck open do you intend to fit a galley stove, they are quite straightforward to make out of any old bits of timber/plastic and do add interest to a build. There are designs here on MSW and plenty of examples to follow. Cheers, B.E.
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You're in good company Daniel with our King Alfred, he had trouble with ovens A realistic result and a great solution, best I've seen. Cheers, M.
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Hello Nils, what a fascinating approach to building Pegasus working up the full frames from the Amati bulkhead drawings, no mean feat. What did you use as reference for the internal fittings which of course are not given in the Amati plans? but which add such interest to your build. I note that you have added metal rims to the trucks of your gun carriages and lifting bars (Dolphins) to the guns. You may of course be adopting a stylistic approach to aspects of your build, which is fine, but those features were not actually fitted to British naval guns of the period, if you are seeking an historical approach. An appealing build Nils, I will follow your progress with much interest. Regards, B.E.
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Beautiful work and a fine build log, love the headworks and stern decoration. Regards, B.E.
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Fine looking build Kester, I love the furled sail, great natural look to it. B.E.
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Hi Martin, an iron horse to me is an iron bar fixed at both ends and parallel to the deck to which the boom sheet is attached and allowed to travel along the length of the horse according to the trim of the sail. Sometimes the bar is attached to the taffrail of a vessel. Not sure abouit several lines being attached tho', which ones does it say are attached? perhaps a photo may help. ps thanks for the info about American machines and power differences, I hadn't thought about that. Cheers, B.E.
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Nice work on the head Michael, I think you have given your Wasa a great period look, a wonderful build. B.E.
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A neat solution Timmo, nicely executed. Cheers, B.E.
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Once you've sussed out the technique as you seem to have done Andy, it's just a matter of trial and error, frustrating as that may be. Not looking forward to those fiddly bits either. B.E.
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Hi hamilton I have to add my name to the list of those who think the bare twig look does not work. Scale link do a range of foliage frets which may work better, but before you give up and leave it plain, try painting a strip of paper of the required width with a series of scrolls and say acanthus leaves, you may surprise yourself. The book artwork gives a lead. Cheers, B.E.
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Thanks Jason, with a waterline setting and added sails it does give a very different look to a model. Thanks Michael it was my first attempt at water, and paper sails for that matter, there was no other option than to cover her but it doesn't detract too much from the view. Cheers, B.E.
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Neat job on those bijou carronades Richard I bet you're glad that bits over. I agree about the name colour, white just seems too stark for the model. Nice progress. Cheers, B.E.
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Looks a good result Jason, those pre- drilled bowsprit caps are a pain because as you say the cap should be in a vertical plane when viewed from the side and the hole for the jibboom needs to be angled to suit the stive of the bowsprit. To make it so the hole becomes too big. An additional problem on Pegasus was that there was no provision on the starboard side to take the Jack staff; I got around the problem by scratching a new cap and fixing angled inserts in the vice to give the correct stive for the hole before drilling. Enjoy your trip back home. Cheers, B.E.
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Hi Revier, thank you. The model has a plastic cover over it that fits inside the rim of the base. At 1:150 scale that is the only way to keep it clean. The good news is that with the small scale the overall case size is not too obtrusive. Cheers, B.E.
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Looking good Bob, I'm pleased you like the lathe, feel partly responsible for pushing you down that road. Not hinting or anything but the Proxxon Mill is great for squaring the heads out of dowel for the lower masts where the rest of the length is a slightly tapering round. Not so relevant for the topmasts where starting with square stock is the better option. Cheers, B.E.
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