Blue Ensign

Thanks QAR Hi Keith The Band saw can deal with heavier gauge stuff, is more robust, can still cut fairly tight curves, but for very small delicate work a scroll saw is probably more appropriate. I would envisage using the band saw for many of the tasks I would otherwise use the table saw for. Hi Tom, 85mm is the maximum cut height. My cutting mat measures 90 cm x 60cm and I got it from a supplier in the UK Cost £26.95 http://www.creativegrids.com/acatalog/Industrial_Cutting_Mats.html Thanks for your input Jud, I like the idea of buying cutting mats by the foot, very large mats in the UK cost an arm and a leg. Cheers, B.E.

Proxxon Micro MBS 240/E Band Saw Review Since I posted my new toy on my build log it has been suggested I write a review of this Band saw. This is really first impressions by a novice user. It may be of interest to those in the UK that the machine was purchased not from Chronos the UK Proxxon dealer, but from TBS- Aachen in Germany. Delivery was very quick, I was able to pay by Paypal, and there was a saving of £52.72 over the Chronos price, including a modest postage charge. http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/bandsaw/Proxxon_27172_MICRO_bandsaw_MBS_240/E_i2486_42358.htm A few general shots Note the push stick hanging on the side of the machine, this is included. First impressions. This is the largest of the Proxxon tools I have, measuring 19½" high x 15½" deep x 11" wide. (including the motor on the side, and the table) It sits on a base of mdf 1” thick, 9¼" wide x 12¼" deep. The machine feels sturdy, it is quite stable, but portable, and I can pick it up one handed. As can be seen below it sits comfortably on my desk. The machine arrived with a standard blade already fitted, and all that was necessary to set it up was to attach the table and get familiar with the operations. I found it useful to photocopy the exploded views in the manual so easy reference could be made to the parts etc; when reading the text. Changing blades is fairly straightforward but as a complete novice with band saws it would have been comforting to have some sort of tensioning gauge when fitting blades rather than the narrative dire warning:- putting too much tension on the blade can tear apart and damage the device. How much tension is too much tension, should there be any lateral play in the blade at all or should it feel rigid when pressed from the long side. It seemed to me that there is a range of tensions where I can’t detect differences in performance, but which is the optimum one. Tensioning is done by degrees using the knob on top of the machine, best done with the cover off where the blade can be felt. I worked on the basis of when there was minimal play in the blade on the long side and the motor ran quietly, it was about right. Access to the internals is via four Allan bolts to remove the cover which remains attached to the machine via a chain. A hinged door system would have made for quicker adjustments/cleaning. The lower running wheel with the drive pulley attached. The wheels have a plastic cover around them over which the saw blade runs. In the photo you can see a brush which clears away bits of plastic scuffed off the wheel. These are replaceable items and I have noticed that the rate of wear changes depending on the tension, but again as a novice user it is difficult to know what is normal for this machine. The machine has quite an efficient dust clearing system using the vacuum cleaner hose attachment. Using the machine. My initial use was limited to practising curved cuts on scrap wood which it easily accommodated. I progressed to cutting out the keel and false keel for my attempt at a 1:64 scale Pinnace. This is fairly fine stuff using 1.5mm boxwood sheet, and it (or perhaps me) struggled a little with the internal curves given the scale. I rather think a scroll saw would be more suited to the job, and certainly for the boat frames which are quite small. Even so this is a very useful addition to the workshop and apart from cutting more complex shapes it will replace my table saw for many jobs also. Here’s the official video of the machine. Any member who has perhaps more experience in using this particular machine please feel free to comment. B.E.

The headworks should look light and with graceful, subtle curves; to my eye Thomas you have ticked all the boxes B.E.

Nice work on the rudder Bob, and the chain scale looks about right, interesting to see the pendants fitted thro' a hole in the hull. I think I would try and get the rudder closer to the stern post perhaps by countersinking the eyebolts deeper into the stern post. The gap looks a tad large to my eye. Cheers, B.E.

Wonderful artistry, a pleasure to see. B.E.

Some ten days since I last looked in Nils, and what a treat, I am amazed by your artistry, that is such a beautiful model. M.

Impressive work on those shrouds and ratlines Mobbsie, excellent photos, well done B.E.

Great work on the guns Matti, they have a real period look to them B.E.

Those frames look impressive Mike, well done and thanks Chuck for your additional insights and photos. B.E.

Love the look of your coppering Jason, great production system you have for the plates. B.E.

Wonderful stuff Nils, I love it B.E.

Your deck detail looks fine in that close up photo Martin, as do the shroud cleats. I envy you that work space, going to look impressive with all your hardware set up. I'm effectively limited to 30" x 24" on my desk top. From one shipyard apprentice to another. Happy Birthday Bounce, from William and me.

Like what you've done with the Pinnace Mike. Cheers, B.E.

Those shots look impressive Jay, nice progress. B.E.

Looking good Ray, I admire your patience with all those flemish coils B.E.

Great looking build Nils, I will follow your log with interest. Love the photo of the Meister at work. B.E.

Nice detailing Bob B.E.

Looking good Mihai, the subtle curves show up nicely on the photo's. Cheers, B.E.

Sounds like an average day in the life of a ship modeller to me Bob, but the clean -up looks excellent Onwards.... B.E.

What a great model Nils, some very good techniques you've used, I love it! B.E.

You've come a long way in developing your techniques Holty since the first planking, and she's turning into a nice looking model. Regarding the line diameters for gun rigging:- The breeching is around 4.25" circumference which scales to 0.54mm diameter. The side tackles if you intend to fit them are 2" circumference line = 0.25mm diameter at scale. (source AotS Cutter Alert) You might find that 0.5mm line looks a little thin for the breeching line when placed on the gun and 0.25mm a little thick for the tackles by comparison. There should be a visible difference in size between the two; in rigging the six pounders on Pegasus I went for 0.7mm line for the breeching and 0.1mm line for the tackles, but I also used much smaller tackle blocks than kit provided ones. If you go for 0.25mm tackles (because the blocks are bigger) then I would consider 0.75mm line for the breeching. Regards, B.E.

Nice shots of your Badger Mike those furled sails are looking very good, a very attractive model. B.E.

Just love looking at pics of your Wasa Michael, presumably the deadeyes will swivel in the strops so you can get the right orientation when you come to rig the lanyards. B.E.

Looking excellent Augie, beautifullly clean work B.E.

I'm relieved to see she has been cased Michael otherwise I would have had to seriously up my game in the cleaning stakes Nice story about your time in the UK and the painting. Cheers, B.E.