Louie da fly
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Everything posted by Louie da fly
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Nice work, mate. The only other way to do this without splitting would be to source your wood from forks in tree-branches. You've done a good job. Steven -
Beautiful work, Kondzik! I'm continually amazed at the quality that can be achieved from card. Steven
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Very nice. Is it adjustable for different widths? Steven
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That twill weave looks really good - it has the "diagonal" pattern that twill fabric exhibits. 2mm strips - that's quite a fine weave for just strips of paper. You've done an admirably neat job of it. Steven
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Anchors. Making the rings for the anbchor cables. The stock and ring made, and the anchor ready to assemble . First anchor assembled, second ready to go Anchors painted and complete On the first anchor, before I cut and carved the shank I should have drilled the hole in the top of it (for the ring) , as the shank split when I drilled the hole. Fortunately I was able to glue it back together. Apart from that, the first was relatively plain sailing. But the second was a real trial - this time I drilled the hole for the shank before I'd completed carving the flukes - big mistake - while finishing the carving I pressed too hard and broke the arms. Then once I'd fixed that (using CA as it's not as flexible as PVA) the tenon at the end of the shank broke off as I was putting it in the hole in the arms. Had to re-carve the tenon - fortunately I'd made the shank slightly longer than it was supposed to be, so I had a bit of wriggle room to do so. But they're done! I might put black paper "reinforcements" around the stock as shown in the reconstruction picture in Landström's book - I haven't decided yet. Steven
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Thanks everybody for the likes. Thanks in particular to End Of The Line. I've noticed you've been proceeding through the build log bit by bit, and your attention and 'likes' are appreciated. Steven
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New stuff. There were another 6 "bronze" and 4 "iron" guns to be put in place, but really not much to secure them to, as I hadn't put decks in for them to sit on. The best I could do was to shorten them and glue them to the hull planking, and hope the glue would hold. First I tried gluing a wooden backpiece to the barrel, to go hard up against the inside of the gunport. Didn't really work, so I took it off and just relied on the strength of the CA to hold the barrel in place. Forecastle guns in place And here's the stand with the nameplate half painted. I found that gold didn't show up properly agains the wood of the background, so I filled in with black letters, using the gold as a border around them. I had to re-do the stand three times - the two supports weren't really in the right position and I had to move them and also raise the forward one so the keel was approximately horizontal when the ship was in place. I've put the railing on the foretop and fitted the pavises (big square-ish shields). Making the anchors. I'm useless at soldering, so I'm making them out of pear wood, which I feel much more comfortable with. This is the first of the two anchors. I'm pretty happy with how it's turned out so far. Next to make is the stock and somehow figure out how to make and fit the ring. Steven
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I'm particularly enjoying the research component of this build. To my mind that's half the fun of modelling and you're really putting in the "hard yards" on this one. Steven
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This is probably true. Not only does the leather (not rawhide but tanned leather) protect the face of the planks, but it also helps hold them together. With regard to this, see https://history.stackexchange.com/questions/38925/anglo-saxon-law-banning-sheepskin-covered-shields where sheep's hide is forbidden as a covering for a shield. The generally accepted explanation for this is that sheepskin is inferior to cowhide. I don't know about the Vikings, but the Anglo-Saxons had a plentiful supply of cattle, as the excavations at Hamwic (now part of Southampton) demonstrate. Steven
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Those bolt ropes look very good, and that's a very nice decoration on the sail. Have you any idea what the significance of the key is? Steven
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He's a great example of the Strine wire flife. Funny, I didn't have any trouble understanding him . . . "Cooper" is from the same root word as the word "cup" - originally a cooper made barrels and cups. The street Coppergate in York (UK), where they found a large number of Viking artefacts is the Street ("gate" - a doublet of the word "gait") of the Coopers. Steven
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I've never seen a "staged" mast like that. I wonder what evidence the kit manufacturers have to back it up. The cog itself is looking very good. Whatever problems you may have been encountering, you seem to have progressively triumphed over them. Steven
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Ships vs Boats
Louie da fly replied to Mike from Aus's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
And the "Good Ship Lollipop" was an aircraft - a DC2, if I remember correctly . . . Steven -
You might be interested in the seams used to join fabric in recovered Viking garments - see https://nokkvidr.wordpress.com/make-it/sewing-fabric/techniques/flattening-seams/ Might help you choose how to join the panels in your sail. Steven
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Very nice work, Silverman! The level of detail is amazing - both figures wearing undershirts beneath their tunics, and the knot in the belt of the second one, the purse on the first one's belt - I take my hat off to you sir! Yes, that's me in my Byzantine kit - based on contemporary representations. The photo was taken at Easter quite a few years ago - so that's the cool part of the year Down Under. But in summer it can get up to 40 degrees C - basically you just get used to it. Steven
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Rather than this . . . Nice armour - shame about the hose . . .
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Beautiful work, Silverman. Very convincing. But as those of us who've worn them know, maybe the hose should have been a bit baggy at the knees? (or is the fabric cut on the bias?) Seriously, though, I'm extremely impressed by the clothing on these figures. You've really made it look real. Can't wait to see it all painted. Steven
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Interesting idea. From personal experience with the real thing, round shields with central bosses are a bugger to stack - they seem to develop a mind of their own. Unless you tie them together somehow (and I have no idea how), they're liable to roll around the deck and get in the way and have people fall over them. If each of them has a guige (shoulder strap) and it's tied/buckled around its own thwart, perhaps that would work? Steven
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For the foremast I realised there just wasn't enough room on the forecastle for the knight and a capstan - so I've cut a hole in the forecastle deck to lead the ties down to a supposed knight and capstan conveniently hidden belowdecks. Then the problem was to lead those ties down and fix their ends belowdecks. So, I led the ties as a loop through the hole in the forecastle deck and made a wire hook to grab the loop and pull it out through the "doorway" at the break of the forecastle. I got the inspiration for this method from C.S. Forester's Lieutenant Hornblower (where a gunner uses it to repair an unbushed cannon). And then I put a bit of wood through the loop and glued it in place. Then slid the piece of wood through the "doorway" and glued it in place on the inner deck. Next I put cheeks with sheaves on the foremast and threaded the ties through them. Needs a bit of tidying up. You can see the hole in the mast where I'd originally intended to put a single tie - until I did some reading and realised they were always double. A bit of filler will fix that. And I've been working on the stand. Not finished yet, but well on the way. Dry fitted. Steven
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