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Louie da fly

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Everything posted by Louie da fly

  1. Thanks everybody for the likes, and Liteflite for the comment and suggestions. I'm not in any hurry with the anchors - there's plenty of other stuff still to do before I even think of putting them in position. That hinge idea sounds good.Maybe I'll try it, but currently I just drill the holes and then cut around them in a triangle with a (sharp) craft knife. Pristine! Pristine? You've got to be kidding. It's got great blobs of CA and remnants of white glue, the surface is impregnated with sawdust from sanding, you name it! And there are places where the lines have been worn away - it was just a cheapie I got from a junk shop. Nice that it looks pristine in photos, though . Steven
  2. I've made a railing for the steps leading down from the upper deck. And after a lot of faffing around trying to drill perfect tiny triangles of holes for my deadeyes, I decided I should really make a jig. I used galvanised iron strap, as used for cross-bracing in house construction. Took me about 10 minutes to make one, with two (not perfect, but acceptable) triangles of two different sizes and spacings, for different sized deadeyes. Should have done it ages ago. And I've finally added the starboard foremast shrouds and started work on adding the deadeyes for them. Four lower deadeyes in place and two to go. Then the upper ones and the lanyards. And it looks like I'll need to add a couple of ratlines at the bottom end of the shrouds. Slow but steady progress. Steven
  3. Coming together very nicely, Clare. But what's that thing hanging in front of the mast? Steven
  4. Nice work, mate. The only other way to do this without splitting would be to source your wood from forks in tree-branches. You've done a good job. Steven
  5. Beautiful work, Kondzik! I'm continually amazed at the quality that can be achieved from card. Steven
  6. That twill weave looks really good - it has the "diagonal" pattern that twill fabric exhibits. 2mm strips - that's quite a fine weave for just strips of paper. You've done an admirably neat job of it. Steven
  7. Anchors. Making the rings for the anbchor cables. The stock and ring made, and the anchor ready to assemble . First anchor assembled, second ready to go Anchors painted and complete On the first anchor, before I cut and carved the shank I should have drilled the hole in the top of it (for the ring) , as the shank split when I drilled the hole. Fortunately I was able to glue it back together. Apart from that, the first was relatively plain sailing. But the second was a real trial - this time I drilled the hole for the shank before I'd completed carving the flukes - big mistake - while finishing the carving I pressed too hard and broke the arms. Then once I'd fixed that (using CA as it's not as flexible as PVA) the tenon at the end of the shank broke off as I was putting it in the hole in the arms. Had to re-carve the tenon - fortunately I'd made the shank slightly longer than it was supposed to be, so I had a bit of wriggle room to do so. But they're done! I might put black paper "reinforcements" around the stock as shown in the reconstruction picture in Landström's book - I haven't decided yet. Steven
  8. Thanks everybody for the likes. Thanks in particular to End Of The Line. I've noticed you've been proceeding through the build log bit by bit, and your attention and 'likes' are appreciated. Steven
  9. New stuff. There were another 6 "bronze" and 4 "iron" guns to be put in place, but really not much to secure them to, as I hadn't put decks in for them to sit on. The best I could do was to shorten them and glue them to the hull planking, and hope the glue would hold. First I tried gluing a wooden backpiece to the barrel, to go hard up against the inside of the gunport. Didn't really work, so I took it off and just relied on the strength of the CA to hold the barrel in place. Forecastle guns in place And here's the stand with the nameplate half painted. I found that gold didn't show up properly agains the wood of the background, so I filled in with black letters, using the gold as a border around them. I had to re-do the stand three times - the two supports weren't really in the right position and I had to move them and also raise the forward one so the keel was approximately horizontal when the ship was in place. I've put the railing on the foretop and fitted the pavises (big square-ish shields). Making the anchors. I'm useless at soldering, so I'm making them out of pear wood, which I feel much more comfortable with. This is the first of the two anchors. I'm pretty happy with how it's turned out so far. Next to make is the stock and somehow figure out how to make and fit the ring. Steven
  10. I'm particularly enjoying the research component of this build. To my mind that's half the fun of modelling and you're really putting in the "hard yards" on this one. Steven
  11. This is probably true. Not only does the leather (not rawhide but tanned leather) protect the face of the planks, but it also helps hold them together. With regard to this, see https://history.stackexchange.com/questions/38925/anglo-saxon-law-banning-sheepskin-covered-shields where sheep's hide is forbidden as a covering for a shield. The generally accepted explanation for this is that sheepskin is inferior to cowhide. I don't know about the Vikings, but the Anglo-Saxons had a plentiful supply of cattle, as the excavations at Hamwic (now part of Southampton) demonstrate. Steven
  12. Those bolt ropes look very good, and that's a very nice decoration on the sail. Have you any idea what the significance of the key is? Steven
  13. He's a great example of the Strine wire flife. Funny, I didn't have any trouble understanding him . . . "Cooper" is from the same root word as the word "cup" - originally a cooper made barrels and cups. The street Coppergate in York (UK), where they found a large number of Viking artefacts is the Street ("gate" - a doublet of the word "gait") of the Coopers. Steven
  14. I've never seen a "staged" mast like that. I wonder what evidence the kit manufacturers have to back it up. The cog itself is looking very good. Whatever problems you may have been encountering, you seem to have progressively triumphed over them. Steven
  15. And the "Good Ship Lollipop" was an aircraft - a DC2, if I remember correctly . . . Steven
  16. You might be interested in the seams used to join fabric in recovered Viking garments - see https://nokkvidr.wordpress.com/make-it/sewing-fabric/techniques/flattening-seams/ Might help you choose how to join the panels in your sail. Steven
  17. Very nice work, Silverman! The level of detail is amazing - both figures wearing undershirts beneath their tunics, and the knot in the belt of the second one, the purse on the first one's belt - I take my hat off to you sir! Yes, that's me in my Byzantine kit - based on contemporary representations. The photo was taken at Easter quite a few years ago - so that's the cool part of the year Down Under. But in summer it can get up to 40 degrees C - basically you just get used to it. Steven
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