hornet

Mine is made of a piece of poly pipe with 2 end caps. It has a four bladed sandpaper impeller. Fitted with a motor that is hooked up to a variable speed switch box. 

This may help. Hull of the Endeavour Replica under construction. 

I built the Corel Victory approximately 25 years ago so I can’t really remember what I did in your situation. I’ve included a couple of shots of the rear deck which may help. Stick with it as she is a beautiful model when completed. 

Perhaps you could experiment with Model Aircraft Dope which is used to seal and tighten the ‘skin’ on model aircraft. I’ve not tried it but it may be worth a try. 

I’m currently building the Caldercraft version and it is on the brass etch sheet. It may be that yours is the same. I replaced mine with ones I made from timber. 

Tweezers held in the jaws of a fly tying vice works for me. 

This is mine. May give you some ideas. 

YouTube  videos from Modellers Central will give you a basic guide to planking a hull. 

1 hour ago, PRS said:

Sweet!

 

A few years back I tried to do a sopwith from model airways but the cast pieces were really a turn off and it is all sitting in a box in the closet.

Cast pieces on the Artesania Latina kits are quite well done. My biggest issue was that gluing was done with cyanoacrylate glue which I am allergic to. I used 5 minute epoxy which was awkward at times. 

I decided to make a companion for my Sopwith Camel (posted here a while back)  The Fokker DR 1 seemed most appropriate choice. If I had to chose the most enjoyable build, I’d say it was the Camel. In saying that, I’m happy with the way the DR1 turned out. 
cheers

Steve. 
 

13 hours ago, Danstream said:

I love this. I hope the A.L. kit lives up to expectations.

 

Was quite an enjoyable kit to build. Instructions on CD not printed but you could print them off if so desired. Great detail in kit. Gave me a chance to practise my airbrushing skills too😀

Short break - something different - before beginning the HMB Endeavour.  Am also going to build the Fokker  Triplanes by the same manufacturer. 

I find that holding very small items like blocks in an inexpensive fly tying vice is very helpful. There are many cheap vices for sale on eBay. I have found that my fly tying vice is one of my most useful tools in model making. 

I’ve built two  Caldercraft models and am on my third. They are quite good quality for the money and have a good range of models for different skill levels. 

I use my own home made rope walker. I scour antique stores for cotton and linen thread. Apparently old cotton reels are collectable. I’ve found that old thread is often better quality than modern thread. 

If making your own rope, haunting antique and collectable shops is worthwhile. Apparently the old cotton reels are now collectable. I’ve managed to gather quite a collection of linen and cotton threads in a range of colours and diameters that are much better quality than modern thread. 

I used Admiralty paints on my Bounty. Excellent. 
- French Blue

- Red Ochre

- Yellow Ochre

http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/PSA_Paint.htm

Check out my build. Posted yesterday. Copper bottom. 

I have an older model of this machine. I improved it by adding another length of threaded rod to the front to hold a reel of thread. It makes the job a lot easier. I simply drilled and bent up two right angled brackets in Perspex then drilled a hole in the front (base) of each of the legs on the serving machine. I bolted on the the brackets then threaded the rod through holes drilled in the top of the brackets. I can change thread reels simply but undoing one of the nuts on the threaded rod and changing reels. 

I use 2 part epoxy designed for coating fishing rod guides. Mix together then add very small amount of enamel paint. Place oven bake paper under window frame and apply mix. When dry, peel off oven bake paper and you will get realistic looking glass - concave or convex shapes can be achieved depending on how you apply mix. I usually use a toothpick. 

I wouldn’t be without my cheap fly tying vice. Excellent for many jobs where a third hand is essential. 

If you do a google image search for the Byrnes draw plate you can see the step down between hole sizes used. This drawplate is brilliant. As to cutting bamboo cleanly, I use a pair of cutters with very, very sharp, fine jaws. 

this is my ropewalk. Works a treat. 
 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/14464-inexpensive-powered-rope-walker/?tab=comments#comment-449106

I have spent quite a lot of time haunting antique shops. I have collected a lot of old cotton and linen thread - people actually collect cotton reels - which is (in my opinion) often better quality that the tread produced now. I calculate diameter then make up appropriate diameter ropes using various numbers of threads on my home made rope walker. It is now one of my favourite model related pastimes. 

I use a length of polypipe with endcaps cut into a trough and mounted on a wooden base. A tap on the end allow most of the water to be drained when finished