BobG

Very nice, Don!

I just read over your build log and will be following along. I've always thought this is a great looking model.

Wonderful work so far and lots of progress in a short period of time!

Nice job correcting the stern planking problem, David. 

4 hours ago, glbarlow said:

 

I used my Byrnes Sander to sand the angle (67 degrees for the first several)

Beautiful planking, Glenn. How did you determine the 67 degree angle? Do you change this angle as you continue along with the planking?

Beautiful work, Hake!

6 hours ago, travis said:

By the way, have you found any local model clubs yet (I've only seen the rc groups up here)?

I don't believe there is one is the Sacramento area. There is one in the Bay Area called the Hyde Street Pier Model Shipwrights: https://hspms.org  A modeler here on MSW, Clare Hess, who goes by Catopower on our forum, is active in that club and has his own blog also: https://shipmodeler.wordpress.com

This looks like a great project and I'll be following along. There aren't that many Coast Guard models available to be built. I was in the Coast Guard from 1966-70 and served aboard the USCGC Storis out of Kodiak, Alaska, for 1 1/2 years followed by 2 1/2 years on the 40 footers based at the Captain-of-the-Port Los Angeles/Long Beach Station. So I love it when someone posts a build log of a Coast Guard model here.

I've been thinking of eventually building the one of the old Dumas models of a Coast Guard 40 foot utility boat. I believe it is out of production but can still be found on eBay occasionally. The Dumas model 40 footer has the hull number 40414 which was one of the boats I was a coxswain on so many years ago.

Good luck with your build!

Great work and an excellent post, Tom!

Beautiful sails, maurino! This is going to be a gem of a little boat!

3 hours ago, chris watton said:

There is one I may do called 'Saucy Jack', a Barking Fish carrier!

That would be very cool! I couldn't find a photo of these fishing smacks but here is an interesting article about them. 

http://valencehousecollections.co.uk/browse/are-you-being-saucy-jack/

Those are really nice looking fishing boats! I like working vessels like these very much and I'm so glad you're willing to create some models that aren't warships. I think these are going to be very popular. Time for me to add a room onto our small house!

Your Bluenose is looking great, Travis! I've always thought she is a gorgeous, sailing ship with her beautiful, sleek lines. My wife and I got to sail on her in Lunenberg, Nova Scotia, 2 years ago. We had a wonderful time and the ship is maintained in pristine condition. By the way, I live in Sacramento. I look forward to following your build.

42 minutes ago, hof00 said:

Me too!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

Hello HOF,

Nice to hear from you. What are you working on now?

I'm afraid the past year and a half has gotten away from me in the blink of an eye: Covid running rampant everywhere, some personal health scares (all turned out to be false alarms), toxic politics, wildfires burning all over the western USA and the climate going to hell faster than a speeding bullet. It got to be all too much for me so I just escaped into my guitars and cycling, social distancing and staying away from people in risky places! I got tired of trying to figure out the confusing AL rigging plans for the Pen Duick also. It wasn't feeling like fun so, unfortunately, I exited my model shipyard too. 

I tend to go full bore into one thing or another. Moderation is not my strong suit but I'm trying to make room for some more modeling soon.

Hope all is well,

10 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

You break them off with pliers

Is it necessary to add glue to the bulkhead taps or just lower on the gun port patterns? It seems like they might be tougher to remove if they are glued.

This is a excellent post, Glenn, and it will be extremely helpful when I get to this step. I've never added gun port patterns before since I've never built a model with guns. The only bummer is knowing that I will anxiously pulling out my hair when I do it and, at my age, hair is a precious commodity!

2 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I had done light scoring with a razor saw earlier on the sides of each bulkhead tap to help start that later process, light being the operative word.

 Do you mean that you scored each bulkhead tap at the deck level to make it easier to get the saw to I've never a follow the cut later?  

It looks like you've done a beautiful job on her so far. Really too bad that you need to sell it at this point.

Fantastic work on the barrels. They are beautiful!

I'm ready to sit back and enjoy the show!

Lots of progress, John. The hull will look great once you get it sanded.

I'm following along, Erik. I'm sure you'll make a beautiful model judging from the work you did on your Zulu. Good luck!

I've been looking over your log again, Derek, before I start to build the Flirt. What a magnificent model you made! I hope I can do half as well on the Flirt.

24 minutes ago, DelF said:

I'll be interested to hear how you get on.

I just ordered some along with a Fineline Applicator. I let you know how it goes for me after I get some using it. Thanks for alerting us to it.

9 hours ago, DelF said:

For glue, I'm using Super 'Phatic, an aliphatic glue which looks like a thin PVA but grabs very quickly.

I'm interested in this glue, Derek, and will get some and give it a test run.

I've been using Titebond Quick & Thick for general gluing and medium viscosity CA for planking. They both have their pluses and minuses. The Titebond Quick & Thick is nice in that it isn't as runny and it doesn't squeeze out as much as regular Titebond. It sets up quicker but still gives you a few minutes to make adjustments as necessary.

The medium viscosity CA gives gives you a few seconds to make adjustments but you still have to be precise and quick when planking with it. I use just a small spot placed on 2 or 3 bulkheads or frames at a time and move along like that from the bow to the stern. I like it because it sets up fast and I can just hand hold the plank section by section for just a few seconds as I go along. I don't get squeeze out and I don't need a lot clamps. Of course, my fingers occasionally get glued to a plank and it is easier to run out of time to make adjustments. It can also stain so I have to be very careful with it.

I read some reviews of the Super Phatic glue where modelers were saying that it takes a long time to cure and that it remains rubbery which makes it difficult to sand and often clogs the sandpaper. Have you had any problems with it like that?

29 minutes ago, EKE said:

I knew someone would say this.  

 

Jump in with us, Erik, I'll be content to bring up the rear!

Beautiful model, Glen! She'll be a family heirloom for sure!