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Everything posted by Canute
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Wheel and deckhouse look good, Jack. I understand your issues. We keep losing decent hobby shops around here, although I heard we are getting a HobbyLobby in July. Never been in one, yet.
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Recommendations for essential tools for a beginner?
Canute replied to Cindyp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Proxxon and Panavise are two brands of hobby sized vices off the top of my head, Cindy. We have a MSW sponsor selling Proxxon; check him out. -
Hobbyzone building slip for wooden ship models
Canute replied to aydingocer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Here's a link for the US importer: http://www.hobbyzone.biz/psm01.shtml Price is $65 US with free shipping in the US. Canadians pay for shipping; contact the importer for costs. http://www.hobbyzone.biz/faqs.shtml I am a happy customer of some of their shop organizers - tool holders, paint holders, etc. They make up in to study tools. -
Elijah, nice job with your hull. Take your time and make sure it looks right to you. You'll be doing a better planking job if you're happy with your base. And remember to have fun; it's a hobby.
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Druxey, thank you for sharing this build with us. It's a beauty.
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Jesse, that's a sad bit of news. Both of you are in my thoughts and prayers.
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That is one gem of a barge. Most excellent workmanship.
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Nice work on your hull, Elijah! Very smooth looking.
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Congratulation, Matt. I really like the electronic addition. Nicely done concealing the battery and switch.
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Nice looking lathe there Jesse. Have fun.
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Like Mark says, Bondo Spot putty. They have several formulas, as I recall, so read the label and get one for metalwork. I have some orange label Bondo for plastics and it's a good filler. However, wear gloves and a good mask, since the stuff is loaded with VOCs. Work outside or with good ventilation.
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Jack, coming along nicely. The deck looks great. And yeah, a few touch ups, but we all do them. Darn crisp, clean closeup photos. I've been working on some Z scale (1/220) structures for a diorama at my club and my brush work is the pits, in places. Good thing they're going into a dimly lit space.
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If it was sheet plastic bricks, with brick faces and grout lines, a gray paint wash would work. Apply and wipe off the face of the bricks quickly, leaving the paint in the joints only. With real (scale) bricks, you might try a spackling/joint compound, used on drywall. Color it a medium or darker gray. You'd have to force it into the joints or try to actually fasten the bricks with the mortar. As you build up the brick floor, attach the bricks to the brass, leaving enough room between the bricks, for the "mortar".
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Brian, you could do the same with a piece of sandpaper under the steel straight edge. Set if back from the edge, so you can cut against it and also draw lines, holding a pen against it.The wee space prevents wicking the ink/paint under the edge.
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