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Everything posted by ccoyle
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Don Dressel of the Ship Modelers Association spent ten years bashing this kit -- ended up using only the profile former and bulkheads and pretty much nothing else. Spectacular model, though, even out-of-the-box.
- 35 replies
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- Mantua
- Sovereign of the Seas
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Nice work, James! You must have done all this before the pub visit with Shirley? 😉
- 355 replies
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- vanguard models
- Sphinx
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Just finished sanding and putting on varnish coat #2. It's quite warm today, and the varnish gets tack-dry quickly, which I discovered when I carelessly rested an arm on one of the varnished decks (the one not pictured, obviously). Oops. Good thing it wasn't the finish coat. And stop with the name guesses -- you guys aren't even close! 😝
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A bit of speculation on my part -- BlueJacket have a good reputation for fidelity to original subjects, and Dusek have been updating the old Mamoli kits as they re-release them, so either of those two is likely to be a good choice.
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Hi, Jeff. I merged your update with your original build log. You can add updates in the reply window. I think the work you're doing will produce a much better result than a straightforward out-of-box build. Cheers!
- 5 replies
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- Fishing Schooner
- Constructo
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We have to be careful to distinguish between Amati kits in general and Victory Models kits in particular; Chris designed the latter. I have HMS Fly from the Victory Models line in my possession, and I can attest that the instructions are definitely written and illustrated to facilitate ease of construction for intermediate builders.
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Which Scale 1/200 or 1/350 Kit is the most detailed
ccoyle replied to Guyuti's topic in Plastic model kits
By virtue of the fact that is a larger scale, 1/200 will naturally allow for more detail. However, if you have seen some of the incredible detail sets that are now available in even 1/700 scale, the issue of detail per unit of scale is almost a non-issue. I think for many modelers it would be more a question of cost and available display space. -
What you need to know about this is that Chris Watton, who started at Caldercraft, designed the Victory Models line for Amati before starting his own company, Vanguard. Chris is an innovator who doesn't rest on his laurels -- he is constantly seeking ways to improve his kits, including design features, materials, plans, and instructions. There's a learning curve for this trade, as for any profession, so Chris's early work, though very good on its own merits, is not quite as splendid as his later efforts. So, Mercury, being one of his last designs for Amati/Victory, is roughly 2/3 of the way along Chris's career arc. It's a very good design with great instructions, incrementally better than his Caldercraft efforts, but it won't have all the latest bells & whistles seen in his most recent Vanguard offerings.* Basically, you can't really go wrong with any of Chris's designs. * I think that's a fair assessment of Chris's designing career -- he may feel free to correct me if I got anything wrong.
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Okay, the third coat went on today. I do not think there is actually enough for a fourth coat. I'm not 100% pleased with my work, although I gave it my best effort. Despite trying to clean away the sanding dust as much as possible prior to painting, I still found plenty of minuscule particles in the finish -- after all, I'm working in a garage, not a clean room, and I don't have a shop vac. Had a few minor runs, too. The glossy finish under bright lighting shows up every flaw quite well! After allowing the paint to become tack-dry, I pulled the tape. Voila! The speckles in the photo are irregular reflections, not bare spots. Can't wait to start throwing some varnish on that bare wood, but I intend to wait 48 hrs before flipping her over onto her tender bottom. Yes, I said that -- there's no need to quote it. 😆
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Okay, this is a question for the experts on polyurethane paint out there. I finished scuffing exterior coat #2 last night in preparation for coat #3, and I became mildly alarmed at how easy it is to scuff the paint with 400-grit sandpaper. So, thinking ahead to bumping into rocks, brush, docks, and boat ramps, how durable is marine-grade polyurethane actually supposed to be? It doesn't say anything on the can, but is there a "completely cured" time in excess of the touch-dry/sand-dry times? Thanks!
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Okay, now we're cookin'! This is the first coat of exterior top color. It's a polyurethane marine paint, so it dries like a hard shell and will add a little something to the hull's integrity. The paint is rolled on with a foam roller, and then I tipped out the bubbles with a soft, angled brush. I decided I didn't like the recommended disposable foam brushes for the latter task -- the regular brush gives me much better control. There are also two coats of interior top color already done, though obviously not visible in this image. 😉 Both interior and exterior will get a minimum of three coats, and the paint coverage has been good, so a fourth is definitely a possibility. Sand -- paint -- wait -- repeat. 😜
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Welcome! Great work on your model!
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Hello from sunny Southern California
ccoyle replied to boatsNbeers's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome aboard, Dan. I have always like the looks of Lilla Dan -- hope you do well with her when you get around to it. If you are near Fullerton, check out the Ship Modelers Association, one of the largest local clubs in the country and an NRG partner. I was a member back in my SoCal days. Cheers! -
That is indeed looking very, very nice. Agree, but I do like the fact that the box art version shows an out-of-the-box build, which is what box art should be. The customer should be able to see exactly what he is getting for his money. Sadly, this is not the case for all manufacturers everywhere, as we are all well aware.
- 1,039 replies
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- ballahoo
- caldercraft
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