Roger Pellett

Harold Hahn built his spectacular models using an 8in table saw and years ago I scratch built a plank on frame model using similar equipment, so a special purpose miniature saw is not absolutely necessary. Zero gap inserts are not hard to make, and I have had to make them for my Byrnes saw.

My Byrnes saw frankly scares me.as I have not found the right blade(s) to saw wood smoothly. The very thin fine toothed blades tend to burn, pinch and bind and a regular 4in circular saw blade often kicks the pieces back. I know that many builders do excellent work with this saw, but I have not figured out how to make it reach its potential.

The preferred way to cut thin strips with a table saw is to "cut off " the pieces by running the block between the blade and the fence. This way the thin strips are not pinched between the fence and the blade. This means that the fence has to be indexed for each cut. Rockler makes a jig for ripping thin strips that fits into the groove of a full sized table saw. There is no reason why using a properly set up table saw and this gadget strips thinner than 1/16 in could not be ripped with a high degree of repeatability. There is used to be a post on this forum from a guy who built one of these jigs for his Byrnes saw.

Roger Pellett

If you have a full sized thickness sander you can adapt it to sanding very thin sections. Get a piece of MDF to use as a carrier. Affix the piece that you want to sand to it and run it through. I have a thickness sander that I built and I use this technique to sand small pieces. To attach the piece to the carrier I use several spots of glue at the leading edge of the piece to be sanded. You can debond after sanding with alcohol, or you can sacrifice this small area of the piece. Not elegant but it works.

Roger Pellett

I have a mini torch that hooks up to a propane cylinder via a braided hose. It has screw on tips of different sizes and a screw on nozzle so it can be used as a soldering iron or a torch. I got it several years ago from Micro Mark. I have used the larger tip to solder some pretty big joints. It works great and propane cylinders are easy to find.

Roger Pellett

Like many other things in ship modeling, much of this is a matter of opinion, and it depends on what you are modeling and what you are trying to accomplish.

Some modelers and even some museums prefer a natural wood finish. An expert in this type of modeling was Harold Hahn. See examples of his models elsewhere on this forum. He, however, was modeling ships a certain period (2nd half of 18th Century) and he used first class woods- boxwood, pear, holly and sometimes ebony. With these high quality woods, he did not have to stain, the woods could be left in their natural colors. He was also trying to achieve an artistic representation of these vessels, not their exact appearance. Also, These dense, tight grained woods can be very difficult to stain.

In my opinion, many of the models built from kits that furnish species of wood with oversized grain appearance would be better off painted. Also as you move from the 18th to the 19th century, I think that models of this period look much better painted in realistic colors. American working craft in particular look better to me painted.

Roger Pellett

Installation contractors are able to cement corean panels together so well that you cannot find the seam. I saw them do it when they installed our bathroom countertops. Unfortunately, I don' know what they used.

As far as suitability for "Wooden ship models". That bridge has already been crossed. MDF and plywood are hardly traditional materials and what about miniraturists who use brass rod for spars and wire for running rigging? Assuming that the stuff can be worked and glued I don't see that it is any different from the casting resins.

Roger Pellett

The Earlex steam generator looks just like my Wagner unit.

Roger Pellett

Over the past 20 years or so I have restored or rebuilt four wood/ canvas (Old Town type) canoes. All of the have required replacing steam bent cedar ribs and planking And ash stems. On my first canoe I rigged up a system in mt driveway using a camp stove. While it worked fine, it was a hassle to set up and after I had dismantled it I usually discovered a couple of cracked ribs that I had missed and would have to set it up again.

A work colleague who had been remodeling his house offered me a Wagner Power Steamer, intended to steam off wallpaper. This thing produces steam by heating electrically so I can use it indoors, and the steam is hot! The coupling at the of the steam hose mates with a 3/8in npt male pipe nipple screwed into a threaded flange mounted on my steam box. If I need to steam a piece of wood it is a simple matter to hook this and to put it away when I'm done.

Several years ago, WoodenBoat magazine reviewed a specially built steamer. It looked exactly like my Wagner Steamer.

Roger Pellett

Another thing that I forgot to mention is that my compressor can provide air at the right pressure. To high a pressure and the metal fitting that is pressed into the airbrush body is blown out. Trust me, it has happened. The pressure tank for my compressor stores air at 125 psi, probably required for various mechanical applications but way too high for an airbrush. The regulator on my compressor lets me turn the air supply down to 25-30psi.

Roger Pellett

A somewhat dissenting voice: I have two airbrushed- a Badger 350 and a Badger "Paint Sprayer". The paint sprayer is a very simple inexpensive air aspirated sprayer. Both work fine. Virtually all of my airbrushing involves painting of relatively large surfaces. Where I need to paint small surfaces I mask off rather than trying to turn down the airbrush. For this type of work the point sprayer lays down a nice smooth coat. It is not particularly adjustable for width of spray but for the work that I do this does not matter.

For me, more important, is the air source. I started with an aerosol can, then a jury rigged ancient compressor. Recently, our large home improvement retailers have been selling small air compressors with air accumulator for less than $100 US and I recently bought one. This made a huge difference as I can accurately control air pressure. For my level of expertise, having a good air source with controllable pressure is more important than a higher end air brush.

Roger Pellett

Mike, with the prepackaged red oxide primer in spray cans, you don't need an air brush or compressed air source.

Roger

No Mike, I thought that the photo was the repaint job! Since you have sanded it all off, you now have another option- maybe.

Here in the US, red oxide primer is widely available in spray cans. Here we can buy this as a solvent based product in lieu of a water based. The big advantage of solvent based paints is that they do not raise the grain of the wood. It is often sold as auto body primer.

While, I have been mixing my own acrylic colors for my latest model, this is one application where I would use a solvent based paint in a spray can.

Using a spray can you should be able to lay down several thin coats.

Roger Pellett

I personally like the paint job. The joints between the planks show up nicely and the color is good. It doesn' look too glossy but if you think that it is there are ways to flatten it. Here in the US Testors makes a product called Dullcote, a flat lacquer that would help. I have also noticed that paints often get flatter as they fully harden. As for the "dog tooth" joints pile some freight on them!

You are doing a great job that will produce a handsome model.

Roger Pellett

Several years ago I built model of a US Navy motor whaleboat at 1:32 scale. I wanted a wartime finish so I painted the decks navy deck blue instead of varnished as would have been the case during peacetime. Research indicated a foredeck caulked with white seam compound.

I first painted the entire deck white and then sanded the white paint off. The white paint of course stayed in the seams between the planks. I then "caulked" the seams with thread and sprayed on my deck blue. After the blue dried, I pulled out the thread leaving a white seam.

On my first try, the seam was too regular and too bold so I tried again with thinner thread and was happy with the result.

I did not plank this very small deck but sawed the seams into a piece of model aircraft plywood with a miniature table saw.

Roger Pellett

Considering the mode of transportation that existed prior to 1900 I wonder what "road scrapings without stones" consisted of.

Roger Pellett

The following is from Alan Bates Western Rivers Cyclopedium. Thought that you might enjoy:

Composition for Covering Boilers & etc.

Road scrapings, free from stones, 2 parts, cow manure gathered from the pasture, 1 part,; mix thoroughly and add to each barrowful of the mixture 6 lbs of fire clay; 1/2 lb of flax shoves or chopped hay, and 4 oz of teased hair. It must be well mixed and chopped ; then add as much water as it will bring to the consistency of mortar, the more it is worked the tougher it is.

It is hard for us to understand today, how homespun the engineering of these steamboats was.

Roger Pellett

I built this model many many years ago. It is a handsome model and it is interesting to see the improvements that MS has made to the kit over the years and you are doing a fine job with yours.

I hope that you won't mind a friendly suggestion. I believe that the vents behind the windlass shown on the drawing are actually the pipes that lead to the chain locker for the anchor chains.

The pair of cowl vents that you have placed aft of the windlass actually should go atop the deckhouse to ventilate the boiler room.

Roger Pellett

I studied NAME at Michigan, graduating many years before you did 1965. We learned to make lines drawings with ducks and splines traced with ink on vellum. What a mess! T still make model ship drawings this way though.

Roger

Hi Ben,

Nice work and congratulations on becoming a PE. Where did you study NAME?

Roger Pellett

I suggest that you look at offerings by companies selling marine repair supplies. Two that come to mind are Jamestown Distributors and West Marine, not to be conused with West System epoxy which can be bought from West Marine and many local marinas. The marine epoxy companies are constantly coming up with new formulations and easier to use systems so these sources are worth a look.

Having said this the marine epoxy systems are expensive relative to the hardware store variety. A pint of West System, it's associated hardener and metering pumps might cost $50 but it will last for years and is very versatile as the basic resin can be mixed with a variety catalysts and thickened with several different thickeners. I consider it to be a workshop supply to be kept "in stock." West System also sells a small batch mixing set that comes with a calibrated scale that allows the stuff to be mixed by drops. I have the scale but have not had a chance to use it.

For cheap and dirty epoxy I prefer the stuff that comes in tubes to the double syringe type. I keep a stack of old business cards on my workbench ( you need to either get promoted or fired often) and a box of tooth picks. A drop of epoxy and a drop of catalyst on a business card mixed with a toothpick makes a quick small batch.

Roger Pellett

Great looking hull and assuming that the stand is robust enough to do its job, I think that it accentuates the hull shape.

Well done!

Roger

I am not particularly interested in Titanic lore but I did buy and read a copy of Titanic Ships Titanic Disasters, a serious examination of Titanic's design and sinking by a forensic naval architect and a marine engineer, John Woodward who taught marine machinery courses at the University of Michigan to budding marine engineers including this correspondent. This book is in my opinion essential reading for those interested in Titanic and large passenger vessels in general. The book is published by the Society of Naval Architects and Marine Engineers here in the US.

The authors conclude that Titanic was a successful design. She was specified as a two compartment ship. The gash flooded six. She sank on an even keel and allowed her life boats to be launched (with the possible exception of the collapsible boats), and her power plant continue to function providing steam end electric lighting until the end. A couple of "improved Titanic" designs actually fared worse by capsizing before sinking.

Titanic's deficiency was that she was not properly outfitted. Her owners chose not to provide sufficient lifeboats.

Roger Pellett

Canvas covered decks have been used on yachts even into relatively modern times. L. Francis Herreshoff was a proponent of these, and in the late 1940's my father built a Herreshoff designed Prudence H-22 sailboat with a canvas covered deck set in paint. Wooden Boat had an article on the subject several years ago. A few years ago there was a Herreshoff H-28 ketch here in the harbor. It had a teak deck sprung into a king plank and it looked totally out-of-place. Herreshoff would have disapproved. The modern plywood decks with synthetic fabric set in epoxy are direct descendants of these canvas covered decks.

I would think that a canvas covered deck on a royal yacht would be an entirely practical moth of for protecting passengers and furnishings below, and decorating it with paints would be a plus.

Roger Pellett

Learning something new whether a new technique or more about the vessel that you are modeling is what makes this hobby so fascinating.

Roger

Nils,

If you don't mind using plastic sheet you might consider using the model boat that you bought to vacuum form the boats. I would led recommend forming them in port and starboard halves. You would have to cut your model longitudinally in half. When the formed halves are cut from the flat sheet you have a nice little flange on each side to glue together that can then be shaped for the keel. The thwarts and air tank top can then be cut out as sa third piece and glued into the top.with your abilities, I'm sure that you would have no trouble mass producing them.

If you have not used vacuum forming it is simple, and foolproof. A shop vacuum provides plenty of suction. You can produce a wonderfully light delicate boat that will look even better than the model that you bought.

Roger

Nope, the offset rudder is an intentional design feature called a contravene rudder. It is a form of contravene propeller, a term described in the SNAME glossary of maritime terms. Any water behind the propeller moving faster than the undisturbed water surrounding the ship contains kinetic energy and in addition to steering the ship this rudder's job is to maximize recovery of this kinetic energy by straightening the flow.

A photo of the American Victory in dry dock shows this same rudder feature. This photo was published in the NRJ several years ago.

In PN Thomas's British Tramps, Volume I general arrangement drawings of Liberty ships do not indicate this feature. In fact the Liberty's British predessor appears to have a single plate rudder. Thomas also says that a number of Liberty ship rudders failed and the rudder was redesigned late in the war. So the American Liberty's rudders were redesigned. The question is whether this feature was incorporated when the Americans revised the British design or was it added when the rudders were revised late in the war.

Roger Pellett