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dgbot

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by dgbot

  1. Nice planking job Steve. As you plank each hull you apply the experience from the last one. Plus the hull of the Shenandoah is a nice hull to plank. David B PS I am going to the UOI for future treatments. How far are you from there?
  2. Looking good Bob. Have you checked out Model Expo or Bluejacket for smaller belaying pins? David B
  3. I agee with Jim. These schooners were designed for hard driving . The faster out the faster in. The king plank was added to give more support to the hull. David B
  4. Keep this up and you will be taken to the funny farm. I do not wish that to happen. As for your copering I like the way it is coming out. And I would agree that a matte laquer or finsh will give you the effect you are looking for. David B
  5. The plans will help tremendously. However if you would lke to practice and increase your knowledge try and figure out the final shape as well. Use manilla folders for the practice planking. In my experience unless you have the bulkheads perfect and the hull symetrical there could be some diffrences. Just some advice on adding a little challenge to a complex job. David B
  6. Making internally stropped blocks that size or smaller is a pain. I made them the same as you. I would use a #80 drill in a foredom and drill the hole then a reamer then a piece of fine wire. Keep up the good work. David B
  7. Chuck I agree with the above. The Philly was built fast and cheap. It would not have the finishing touches a normal vessel would have. David B
  8. Styrene has its place depending on wht you are doing. It is used to simulate armer plate and other metals. It can also be used for severe bends such as a cockpit for rhe America. It is used quite a bit for modern vessels. And once painted you cannot tell the diffeence. I rarely use it though. David B
  9. Doris, you are a whiz at card models and now youcould enter a military miniature contest. Bravo! David B
  10. A couple of belts will steady your nerves. Great looking windows. David B
  11. I usually airbrush large areas. My hands are not that steady. However one thing a club member who is also an artist said one time is that the size of your brush makes a difference as well. He said most artists use the largest brush they have as much as possible as to eliminate or minimize overlapping and uneveness and use the smaller brushes for detail work. David B
  12. I fully agree with you Toni. Some use figure to help tell a story others will use a figure to show the scale. Your way of doing it wih that one fiure below deck will work wonders inrelating the size and scale of your work. David B
  13. Your way of making those frames at that size is the safe way of doing it. It may be a hassel. But you have to put your pinkys first. David B
  14. Depending on the size what I have done in the past is use very thin galvenized wire with my blocks after deepening the grooves. After stropping aai would apply a drop of thinned filler to the grooves. Once cleaned up you would think they were internally stropped. I have also soaked them in CA and drilled a very small hole through the length avoiding the slot and inserting a piece of wire though it. If too small the way you are doing. David B
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