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AntonyUK

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Everything posted by AntonyUK

  1. Hi Bob. Looking very nice. Makes my fingers twitch in anticipation of starting my kit after Christmas. Keep up the postings. Regards Antony.
  2. Hi Clare? As usual I get to miss a interesting build start... Never mind I've cought up now.... I love thease Japanese and korean kits. They are so different from the normal European kit. Have never used Japanese cedar before. Looks like and cuts like the stuff I have used here in the UK. I like your approach on all your builds.. Steady and check and recheck. A late seat is booked. And as Richard states. so true.Following along.. Regards Antony.
  3. Hi Bob. I like the look of tulip wood for my decks as it has a tinge of green in it. But that's my choice.. But boxwood is the best one can get.. BTW were are you getting your boxwood from ?? A question ...Will you be doing a little kit bashing? ( making your own modifications) Regards Antony.
  4. Hi Cobr. Nice to see another Bounty on the go. Very good idea on the slipway. Will make life much easer for you as the model grows in size. I also have this kit lined up to start after Christmas. Have a nice one. Regards Antony.
  5. I Kmart. Very nice. "I am very happy with how it turned out." and so you should be They are not easy to make but you have made and fitted them. As a on and off modeller as you put it... Not bad..not bad at all. Regards Antony
  6. Hi. I have had my saw for some time now.. And it's in use by 3 people ... Local friends that do modeling.. Lots of usage. Still no issues. I also have Jim's sander. I built my own version first.. It was OK. But after I got Jim's sander Wow the difference was sooo noticeable on the finished timber. Yes inport duties are high. But if you want quality timber you need Quality tools. Regards Antony.
  7. Hi Dan. Yea another cross section for me to follow A different ship no less. Nice. Got my sun lounger booked and ready to receive... Regards Antony.
  8. Hi Christian. Still here and awaiting news and progress. Be interesting to see the new developments with the cant frames. Regards Antony.
  9. Hi Michael. That will work just fine. Resist trying to sand too hard.. Take your time. Regards Antony.
  10. Hi Wim. I spent many years in Korea. I loved the place and people. I saw a replica of this ship near Seoul. Always wanted to model this... But could not find any plans/ drawings. You are making excellent progress on this model. Regards Antony.
  11. Hi Phil. Have you looked at the database of artical's in the MSW database.. This one might give you a good idea on where to start. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf I use a sanding block that's 250mm long and 15mm wide for doing my models.( homemade for the job.. Just a block of flat wood with vees cut into the ends and a wedge to jam the sandpaper into place.) Take your time on this part of the build.. Regards Antony.
  12. Hi Jim. Yes they are the locknut and set screws you will need to adjust. Start with the slide in the centre. Then tighten the middle screw and nip the locking nut. BUT NOT TO TIGHT. Test the full travel of the bed. And redo if nessary. Then tighten the outer two screws and nip the lock nuts. Retest the travel on the bed.. As I said this can be time consuming but it's worth the effort as this mill is brill for modeling work and mine has served me well. Regards Antony.
  13. Hi Bluto. I had the same issues as you are having. I adjusted mine by loosening the nuts then tightening the middle set screw very small amounts with the table in the centre position to start with. Then adjust the outer two. Lock up and test.repeat as nessary. I had to do this some dozen times untill I got it just right.then adjust the full length of the bed travel. Takes time to do it correctly ..but it's worth it... Regards Antony.
  14. Hi kmart. Yes any thing that works for you is good.. And yes I use a lot of bands while building my ships. The planking is Exelent .. And NO stealers . You have been reading up on how to plank.. Keep up the good work. Regards Antony.
  15. Hi Nenad. Yes I use Illustrater . Started with solid works but the learning curve was to steep for me and my brain and my time. Yes there are a lot of shortcuts to be used and finding them is not easy ..But it's A very nice CAD drawing tool. You can save your files as a .pdf and then you can post it on MSW. Regards Antony.
  16. Hi E&T. Outstanding support for the build. Laser cutters cut nice and square .. Lots of nice bulkheads. Makes for a nice shape ans accuracy. Regards Antony.
  17. Hi Maturin. Nice start to your build.. I have this kit as yet not started. Just waiting for the right time and space to appear on my work bench. There are a few build logs of the Bounty. They all contain lots of usefull ideas and mods to help the build. Adding the internal details will enhance the model and your enjoyment. Regards Antony.
  18. Hi Kmart. Sorry to here of your loss. The panart kit is a nice one. And yes Jeff is a skilled builder and his cross section is a masterpiece. Will follow you along with this one.. Regards Antony.
  19. Hi Ulises. Just catching up on your build log.. That's one nice ship and you are turning a pile of wood into a masterpiece. Very nice work throughout the build. After reading all the 353 posts I must say that the help and advice is spot on.. Nice to see that people do still care. Looking forward to your next post. Regards Antony.
  20. Hi Michael. Have a look at this build .. They have had the same issues that you are having. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6360-royal-louis-1780-by-ulises-victoria-mamoli-scale-190-french-vessel-120-cannons-started-in-april-10-2014/?hl=%2Broyal+%2Blouis+%2Bmamoli Please LOOK at post 133 as this is super Important to you at this stage. Regards Antony.
  21. Hi Micharl. Sounds like your keel is twisted from your first statement. .? Sort this out first.. Or you will have a ship that will not go together too well. I had this issue with one of my first kits.. Keel and frames were twisted. My solution was to cut 4 softwood spacers the same width as the gap at the keel on every bulkheade/frame gap. A ship that had 48mm of twist then had less than 1mm.. Worked for me. This also stiffened the hull and made it easer to work with. As far as Faring the frames.. I use a length's of strip wood and pin it to the Bow. Then pin it at the stern. You can then see what angle each bulkhead/frame needs to be. Then I take my Dremmel with a sanding drum on and follow the contours. Checking with a strip of wood that you are still getting the correct angle. There are lots of build logs that show this process. All the best. Antony.
  22. Hi Brett. These are the best Tutorals that I have seen. I have a hard copy of this in my folder I refer to every time I need to do planking. The template I printed onto OHP acetate. Bends nicely and lasts for years and you can see what you are doing. First one is the Tutoral. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining%20Off%20your%20hull%20for%20planking.pdf Second one is the Template. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingfan.pdf As fare as the length of the planks.. It makes it harder to use short lengths But the finish will be Soo much nicer. You could always fill between the bulkheads/frames then you can use random lengths as you build as the ends of the planks will have something to support them. Regards Antony.
  23. Hello Lee. Stunning workmanship. You never cease to amaze me. Your skills are outstanding. WOW says it all. Regards Antony.
  24. Hi Bryan. Just catching up on your build.. Wow a fast mover.. You have done soooo much. And very nicely too. All the extra bits you are adding are looking real good and will make the finished model a real masterpiece. Regards Antony.
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