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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. gjdale
    Maury, I've had success blackening soldered pieces using Birchwood Casy Brass Black. I normally use the silver bearing solder paste, which I believe is what you have used here?
  2. gjdale
    Okay, okay, I'm coming........... The dog ate my homework and now I have to re-do it.
  3. gjdale
    While I use an office chair "inside" (ie in the allegedly "clean" work area), in the garage where I have all of the "dirty" machines, I opted for a hairdresser's saddle stool. As the name implies the seat is very like a saddle, and the rollers are actually from in-line skates. It works very well in moving from tool to tool (those where it's safe to operate sitting down). I use it for scroll saw work, disc sanding, mill work, and some lathe work. I have bad hips and get a sore back after standing for only short periods, so the saddle stool is great. The next mod will be a new hip - coming soon........
  4. gjdale
    Great work Mobbsie! It may have been a pain in the a#%£¥ re-doing them a couple of times, but the end result really looks worth it. I'm glad that talking it through on Skype has helped. And of course, the issues you found are a terrific guide for the rest of us still playing catch-up. I'll be starting on Keelson and floor/futtock riders today, so we'll see if I can avoid some of those pitfalls!
  5. gjdale
    Nicely done with the ebony Jack, though it does sound like a lot of extra work. It will certainly give your model a unique aspect. I certainly agree that starting with some of the interior frames is a smarter way to do it - save the two end frames until you've had plenty of practice. That said, your chock joints look pretty good from this distance!
  6. gjdale
    Congratulations Jesse on completing an excellent build. She looks fantastic and you should be very proud. So what's next?
  7. gjdale
    Thanks everyone for the kind words and "likes". Rusty - thanks for the tip re sanding. Mobbsie - thanks for keeping a weather eye on things mate, but I'm pretty sure that's an optical illusion. There are so many curves in play, that it's almost impossible to tell where straight lines start and finish. I did check it all with a straight edge though and am satisfied that all is in order. Glad to hear your floor riders came out successfully - I look forward to the amended version.
  8. gjdale
    Great idea for the thread JP. I'm still a relative novice with the airbrush, so look forward to picking up lots of tips and tricks here.
  9. gjdale
    Nice to see you putting that serving machine to work so well John. Your rigging is looking great.
  10. gjdale
    This continues to be a fascinating build Carl. Can't offer any advice, but it all looks good to me.
  11. gjdale
    Nicely done, Bob. It may be a pain, but the results look to be worth it.
  12. gjdale
    Your deck looks great Sjors - as others have said, "natural" differences in timbers make it more realistic.
  13. gjdale
    Construction: Planking Didn’t have much time for this build this weekend as the other build (Bomb Vessel Cross Section) took up most of the available time, but did manage to fit the bottom planks. Planking begins with the bottom planking. This is achieved with two large “plastic” sheets. The material is an expanded core PVC called “Sintra”. On the bottom of the hull, there will be no over planking as this gets painted. On the rest of the boat, the Sintra forms an “underplanking”, over which the Mahogany planks are laid. Use of the Sintra simplifies and speeds up the build, and makes the whole vessel lighter (a consideration for later on with the RC version of the build). I have heard of a number of people having water ingress issues due to the Sintra and the fact that the bottom is also not fibreglassed like the remainder of the boat. I will either seal the hull with a waterproof car body filler, or fiberglass the bottom as well as the rest of the boat – I haven’t yet decided on this aspect.
  14. gjdale
    Repairs Complete! Fillets were fitted to all of the gunport and sweep ports previously opened up and cleaned up. To make the task a little easier, a standard size of fillet was used, and the opening adjusted accordingly. To ensure that the ports remained centred in the openings, two simple sizing jigs were made (one each for gun ports and sweep ports). These were simply a block of stock sized to the internal dimensions of the ports. The triangular shaped filling lintels above the sweep ports look tricky, but were surprisingly easy to make. I simply placed a piece of sticky label paper behind the opening and traced around the outside of the opening onto the paper. This was transferred to a piece of 3/16” Pear stock, ensuring the grain was running vertically, rough cut and then sanded to the left and right side lines on the Byrnes disc sander. The length was left slightly long and then gradually reduced on the sander until a snug fit was obtained. Once all filling lintels had been installed and given overnight for the glue to fully cure, it was time to start sanding……..and sanding……..and sanding………and yet more sanding. The outside of the hull was faired above the waterline using 80 grit sandpaper. As this whole section above the waterline will be completely planked, I decided not to go any finer with the sandpaper (at least for now) as this will give a good “tooth” for the subsequent glue. I also found that some of the spacers were starting to come loose, so didn’t want to push my luck with these, at least not until there is something more substantial holding the frames together! The inside above the waterline was sanded in similar fashion, while below the waterline was further sanded with 120, and then 180 grit. There will be sections below the waterline that will remain unplanked, so I wanted to get that down to a smoother surface. I’m still contemplating whether to go further with the finish sanding here. I have deliberately not cut the height down to final size at this stage. Any way, here’s a few photos of progress to date:
  15. gjdale
    I think the only thing that got "bored" was the hole for the bowsprit, Augie! Great forward planning, masterfully executed.
  16. gjdale
    Love your weathering effects Frank. That deck looks great.
  17. gjdale
    Great work Bob, and a great tutorial too!
  18. gjdale
    Okay, it's official, I've exhausted my supply of superlatives. Can someone lend me a few please?
  19. gjdale
    Lovely work Maury.
  20. gjdale
    Jay, A slightly simpler way of making the hook parts might be to use large sewing needles with the eye cut in half. I like the idea of using TWO hooks though - I can see that this would make it a lot easier to get the line behind the bottom of the pin. Might save a lot of colourful language I imagine!
  21. gjdale
    Wot Nigel said! Just terrific Augie.
  22. gjdale
    Jack, Sorry if I confused you, but I was referring to using the same method of filing with the vice as you've used for the scarph joints. Hope that clarifies what I meant. Just sent you a PM re gunports as well.
  23. gjdale
    Thanks Ben, That's a great solution and it seems really obvious once I read it! Wish I'd thought of that before. Isn't hindsight a wonderful thing! Now that you mention it, I do recall reading of this in your log - pity I didn't remember it at the time.
  24. gjdale
    Thanks David, and welcome aboard. Doing the RC and the running gear will be a first for me, so I'm hoping I can rely on a few more knowledgable folks here to guide me along the way. So far, everything has seemed relatively easy and has gone pretty much according to plan (famous last words). I must say, that the instructions are very good so far, and are enhanced further by cross referencing with Pat Mathews' book. And I'm definitely having fun!
  25. gjdale
    Congratulations on reaching such a significant milestone Ben. You must be feeling very pleased - your work is excellent! Double rum rations all round

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