Jump to content
New Publication - Ship Modeler's Handbook - Temp out of stock ×

gjdale

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,858

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by gjdale

  1. gjdale
    Thanks guys, Mobbsie has posted a little bit of research on his log, dug up for us by Wayne, that suggests the use of "nails". And I agree with Mobbsie's rationale of the weight/shock factors requiring extra strength - at least it makes sense to me...... .....which is a roundabout way of saying, I'm going to go ahead as previously described and shown in my test piece! Mobbsie - your definition of being "behind" is, shall we say, questionable?!!! Knowing you, you'll have the shell room finished by tomorrow evening! I'll be away for a couple of weeks coming up, so it may be a while before another update.
  2. gjdale
    Mark's post suggests to me that perhaps there is plenty of room for "interpretation" here. So, I've gone ahead and prepared a test piece using a "spare" Mortar Pit Deck Clamp. This has used 0.5mm Copper Wire, using the template I showed earlier, then sanded back, blackened with LoS, and then one coat of Wipe-on Poly applied. I've just placed it on the model to get an idea of what it will look like in situ. In the picture, you can see the treenails in the planking below as a comparison. Pay no attention to the light coloured "dots" on the right hand end of the test piece - they were from earlier treenail tests. I think this is looking okay - not overdone. Grateful for any and all opinions/comments.
  3. gjdale
    Thanks Mark, That actually IS quite helpful - it shows that either/any approach could be considered "correct".
  4. gjdale
    Thanks everyone for all the kind comments and the likes. I have a dilemma and am hoping that some of you knowledgeable folk can help me...... I had assumed that the Deck Clamps would be secured in place with a system of iron bolts. However, I can find no specific reference for this. I have checked through AOTS, TFFM and EdT's Naiad books and unless I'm reading right past it, I can't find a reference anywhere to guide me in this. Would they be bolted or treenailed? If bolted, what is the appropriate size? What bolting pattern would be used? What I've come up with so far, all assumption I might add, is that the bolts would be no more than 1" diameter (full size), which scales to about 0.5mm for this build. That "feels" about right, when compared to the 0.8mm bolts used in the frames and keelson. As far as patterns go, I am making an assumption that there would be at least one bolt in each frame, and two for the wider clamps. In this instance, the Mortar Pit Deck Clamp (Upper) is 24" wide (full size) and looks to be wide enough to have two bolts per frame, while it's partner (MPDC Lower) is 15" wide (full size) and looks about right for one bolt per frame, but in a staggered pattern. I've made up some templates for the bolting pattern described above. Before I commit to this, I'd love to hear any and all advice.
  5. gjdale
    They look great Mobbsie!
  6. gjdale
    This article by our very own Wayne Kempson is a "must read" for anyone starting out lofting in CAD: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/plans_and_research/DraftingShipPlansInCADwayne.pdf I use TurboCAD (for Mac) and found Wayne's article a tremendous help, even though it's not TurboCAD-specific. The commands are all fairly common across software packages (I think). Wayne will also answer any specific questions you might have if you PM him.
  7. gjdale
    Thanks for all the input folks. The big tip was from both Mobbsie and Rusty, in actually applying Poly to the test pieces before deciding, so that's exactly what I did: The Admiral was consulted and immediately No.s 2, 4 & 6 were ruled out as being too light, and No. 3 for being too dark. That left No.s 1, 5 & 7: There was so little to distinguish between these three, that the choice came down to the method used. No.7 used Boxwood sawdust mixed with diluted PVA. No. 1 used a water-based wood filler, straight out of the jar. No. 5 was the same as No.1 but with a touch of Raw Sienna acrylic paint added. No.7 ran the risk of leaving a glue residue on the wood surface. No. 5 ran the risk of the paint staining the surrounding timber. No.1 offered no down side, so became the final choice by default. Cardboard templates were made up and drilled with a 0.4mm drill. The templates were temporarily fixed in place using double sided tape and the holes drilled. And here’s the resulting holes awaiting filler: Before filling the holes, the hull was removed from the jig and the exterior sanded fair. I cheated and used an electric “Mouse” sander for this. I was a bit worried about how the hull would stand up to this, but it was surprisingly solid. The Mouse made relatively short work of the fairing and did a very good job of it. I forgot to take photos of the exterior though! While I was at it, I made up a temporary work stand for the hull using the templates provided in the drawings (intended as the display stand). I just knocked this up using some scrap 6mm MDF and 6mm square stock for the stringers. I lined the inside with self adhesive felt to protect the hull while it is being worked on. The holes were then filled and the excess filler wiped off with a damp cloth. The whole of the interior up to and including the Mortar Pit Deck Clamps, was then given two coats of Wipe-On Poly (applied with a brush), with a light rub of steel wool between coats. The end result is faint, but distinguishable treenails - I'm quite pleased with how they turned out. In the following photo, you can see the temporary work stand: And finally, here’s a couple of overall shots of where she’s at now: Still tossing up about adding bolts to the Deck Clamps……….
  8. gjdale
    Slow and monotonous they may have been John, but well worth the effort! They look great.
  9. gjdale
    Hey Adam, Nice to see you back in the shipyard and posting again. Looking forward to the continuation of this lovely build.
  10. gjdale
    Yep, the Optivisor is among the "essential" tools in my shop!
  11. gjdale
    Thanks guys, Rusty has it right! I've just applied some poly and will re-photograph in the morning.
  12. gjdale
    Hmmmmmmm.......... Interesting point you reveal about the changes in colour once the Poly is applied Mobbsie. Think I'm going to apply some Poly to my test pieces before deciding on filler colour. Yours looks fabulous with poly applied, by the way!
  13. gjdale
    Hi all, Trying hard to keep up with Mobbsie, but this working for a living thing puts me at a distinct disadvantage! Have been doing some treenail tests using the "drill and fill" method and would appreciate some input as to what looks better. I won't say at this stage what the various concoctions used were as I'd like this to be a truly "blind taste test". Here's a couple of pics of the results. The only difference between the two is the placement of the test pieces in case camera angle made a difference. Voting lines are now open..........
  14. gjdale
    Looking great Mobbsie. Must be a good feeling to successfully remove her from the jig. Looking forward to comparing notes on treenail concoctions.
  15. gjdale
    Stunning Remco - just we would expect from you.
  16. gjdale
    Great to see you back and posting again Bill. Just love drooling over your exquisite work!
  17. gjdale
    Your work continues to amaze and delight me Alexandru!
  18. gjdale
    Thanks everyone for the nice comments and all the likes. There have been so many comments on the spales, that I think it only right that I should acknowledge the source of this idea, that being my Warrior Practicum books by William Romero. Wouldn't want y'all thinkin' I was capable of original thought now!
  19. gjdale
    Great work Joachim. You must be pleased to have that rather tedious part of the build out of the way! Your work looks great.
  20. gjdale
    Well, laziness got the better of me and I paid the price! I had decided that the next step was to permanently install the Mortar Pit Deck Clamps. To do this, I needed to clamp the Clamps properly to the frames. However, as “regular” clamps could not fit around the frames/jig, I decided to use a push method to hold them in place. This is where I got lazy. I thought I would just use some scrap timber cut slightly over length and then wedge this between the opposing sides to give a pushing force on the clamps. Unfortunately, all I succeeded in doing was marking the face of the Clamps to the extent that they needed to be totally re-made. Time to re-think clamping. I decided to do what I should have done in the first place, and make up some spales. These are really simple to make and require only some brass or aluminium tube, some threaded rod, nuts to suit, some scrap wood and some felt. A quick trip to the hardware store got me all the supplies I needed and in next to no time I had some spales ready to use: I made these to a size to suit this specific job. While I was at it, I made up some smaller ones that I figured would come in handy when fixing the riders in place. Just for comparison, here’s the two sizes side by side: With these made up, and it was a simple job to re-cut the Mortar Pit Deck Clamps and then glue them in place using the spales to hold them tightly: Once the Clamps were in place, I could then install the Riders. The mini-spales came in real handy for this job: Here is a couple of pics of the Riders in place. The joinery is not as tight as I would have liked, but I’m hoping that most of the flaws won’t be terribly visible later on. Limber Boards and Footwaling With the Riders in place, it was time to install the Limber boards and Footwaling. This was a fairly straight forward job – and it was the first introduction of a different “colour” of timber - Boxwood. The “L”-shaped rabbet in the Limber Strake was cut using the Byrnes saw, and the angle faces on the Limber board were achieved using the Byrnes disc sander. Temporary spacers were cut to aid in placing everything at the right distances. Here’s the result: Still tossing up whether to add tree-nails to the planking here. The correct scale size would be a #78 drill bit. If I do these, I may use the drill and fill method, rather than trying to draw proper treenails to that size. Will give this some further consideration during the week. Observations / suggestions welcome.
  21. gjdale
    Love it!
  22. gjdale
    Great link thanks Hamilton!
  23. gjdale
    Hey Chuck, Fantastic video tutorial! Thanks so much for posting these. I don't know if you've considered it, but if you re-made these videos with a "proper" view over your shoulder, I'm sure they would sell like hot cakes through your Syren shop. Your commentary is great and really explains both what and why you're doing each step in a way that is very easy to follow. You're a natural teacher! You could do a whole series of these videos that folks could choose from as their needs arise. Reading about it is one thing - seeing it done adds a whole new level of understanding.
  24. gjdale
    Yep, lovely work there Augie. You really do keep raising the bar.
  25. gjdale
    Lovely work John. She just keeps getting better.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...