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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. gjdale
    Very nice Sjors! That bow certainly looks "ship shape".
  2. gjdale
    Great to see an update Tony! The new jig certainly looks the business, and your frames are looking great too. I'll be doing some tests with copper bolts this weekend, so we'll compare notes after that.
  3. gjdale
    Just found this alternative for the honeycombed ceramic board: http://www.gemcuts.com.au/honeycomb-ceramic-soldering-board-197mm-x-140mm-sbhcl It's AUD $38 but the size is a bit bigger. Add another $9 for postage. I just pulled the trigger!
  4. gjdale
    Pat, I'd be very interested to hear more of your investigation (and trials, I hope) with resistance soldering. Thanks also for the tip on the cheaper ceramic board - I too was stunned at the postage cost on the fohrmann one!
  5. gjdale
    Hi Lou, That's a very nice looking frame! I agree with Greg in that I think the chock would be oriented for maximum strength (ie grain parallel to the futtocks). The coloured glue does make a nice contrast, if that is the look you are after. While it does look nice, I think I'm going to stick with straight glue for mine. Interesting that you should comment on the lack of "like" notifications - I seem to be missing them as well. Keep up the good work - I hope to back at mine this weekend.
  6. gjdale
    Looks like you're off to a great start Lou! That's an interesting set-up for making the chocks - I would never have thought of that. If I hadn't already made all my chocks, I'd definitely give that method a go. I would certainly remove the paper before gluing up. If you have difficulty removing the paper, then isopropyl alcohol will help, or for your next frames, you might like to try the technique I'm using, by first covering the timber with low tack Painters Tape and sticking your pattern on top of that. It works a treat! Can't really offer an opinion on the graphite tinted glue, but it sounds reasonable. I'll be interested to see your results.
  7. gjdale
    Tool Time So, while I waited for a couple of weeks to sort out with Carbatec the parts I needed, I continued with my non-ship project, which appears somehow to have leapt into this photo of my broken Scroll Saw Drive Link Assembly. It seems that General International (makers of my Excalibur Scroll-saw), have changed the design. Here’s why: This is what the upper Drive Link Assembly looks like. The schematics in the background are the only form of instructions I had for working out how to take it out! About two thirds of the distance from the left hand end is a bottle-screw arrangement. This is where the 6mm (1/4”) bolt sheered. Here’s a few close-ups: It appears that this may have been a not unusual problem and General International have changed the design - the replacement part does away with the bottle screw arrangement entirely. It's function seems to be really redundant anyway, so why retain a design weakness? The new part is simply a continuous pair of parallel arms. The hardest part was working out just how much of the saw I had to strip down to provide access to the securing points, and then work out how to actually get at them. In the end it only took about 2 1/2 hours (and a bit of colourful language) from start of disassembly to completion of the job and a fully functioning scroll saw. Happy Days! While I was at it, I followed up on some advice from Jim Byrnes regarding some issues I’d been having with the Table Saw - turns out to have been an issue with the blade (I think). I’d also had an issue with my Byrnes Disc Sander, and once again thanks to Jim’s advice I was able to rectify that problem too. Still cautious about the overheating, but otherwise it seems to be fine. All in all, a very successful day in the shop, even though no model building was achieved. Should now be all systems go for next weekend.
  8. gjdale
    Great result Rusty, you must be feeling very chuffed!
  9. gjdale
    I want to see the "27 eight by ten colour glossy photographs with the circles and arrows explaining what each one was" !
  10. gjdale
    Hi Danny, I had a quick search but can't find Chuck's original post on his method. There is a description of my trials and mods on my Victory log on page 25, starting at post #374. Here's a link http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/163-hms-victory-by-grant-dale-mamoli-scale-190/page-25 I may have "filed" Chuck's original post on the other computer. If I can find it, I'll send it to you via PM. In a nutshell, it involves the Byrnes saw, the Mill with some round-over bits, a drill press, and a jig. The process itself is quite simple and I'm sure that you would come up with your own clever mods as well.
  11. gjdale
    The boat looks terrific Bob. And you should definitely make another to fit the stern davits, if for no other reason than I'd like to see you scratch build a POF boat! I know it would be awesome and as you have observed already, making boats is an enjoyable and interesting diversion from some of the more tedious tasks. No pressure, of course
  12. gjdale
    Your detail work is just stunning Johann. It never fails to bring a smile to my face.
  13. gjdale
    Lovely work on the tops Danny. Had you considered using Chuck's method for mass producing blocks?
  14. gjdale
    Nicely done Sjors. The re-dos were clearly worth it.
  15. gjdale
    Lovely work John.
  16. gjdale
    Some great shots to finish off Mobbsie - she really is a monster! Clearly, you need to move into a bigger house with more display room and a larger workshop.
  17. gjdale
    Very nice Dan. I'm sure your plan for display (pedestals etc) will look fabulous.
  18. gjdale
    Gil, I used the MicroGlaze from Micromark on my stern/quarter galleries when I re-did my stern. I was very happy with the results (and it's really easy to use too!).
  19. gjdale
    Congratulations Sjors on an excellent build. Time to celebrate with an adult beverage or three! Looking forward to seeing Aggy finished soon too!
  20. gjdale
    Joe, I've just spent a most enjoyable hour or so reading through your log. You're doing an excellent job on her and I particularly enjoyed reading your techniques and tips on painting. Thanks for sharing so much.
  21. gjdale
    Great progress Bob, and I'll bet it feels good to get that "tedious" bit behind you. I reckon you should have a crack at a framed/planked boat. With your skills, I bet it would be a beauty.
  22. gjdale
    Thanks for your answer Mark. I may have to give this a try myself. Of course, I'd first have to build the sled I've been promising myself for months!
  23. gjdale
    I like your use of the table saw / sled arrangement for cutting the end joints Mark. Do you feel this is more accurate than using a disc sander?
  24. gjdale
    I'll just add my voice to the chorus of praise Rusty - a very fine looking planking job indeed.
  25. gjdale
    Thanks Mike. Grab a drink and some popcorn and come on over to the darkside.

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