Baker

6 hours ago, the learner said:

Your build is fantastic! great job no matter how long it took. On the white rigging and sails try using a strong mixture of tea placed in spray bottle and spray a fine mixture on the sails and rigging while wiping dry the exposed wood. the Tannen in the tea will darken the sails and rigging enough to allow a great build to shine. I have used tea in this manner to color/darken sails with no ill effect on the material. 

1 hour ago, Richard Griffith said:

I cannot recommend the tea treatment because of the tannen.  Tannen will cause deteriation of the fibers.  Instead, use an oil based stain, perhaps diluted 20% .     Duff

Thanks,

I had actually already thought about doing this.
Perhaps with diluted paint (tamiya colors diluted with water / isopropanol) dont now yet.

But before I do anything about this
I first have to try this out on some leftovers  from the rigging.

Nice model

Great work with the stretched sprue for gap filling

Welcome to MSW

Nice model and a lovely cat 

Belgian triple (beer) and a lot of free time.

Update,

The outside of the forecastle is ready. The doors will be made later and a ladder will be provided later in the castle itself .

A tricky part

Tricky part is ready, painting

Saw at the right height (and dust prevention with tape)

Work in progress

Ready

There is a proper tool for every job.
A file is not a chisel   (I learned this in the technical school when I was 12years old...)

revenge   part removed the hard way

Thanks for following

Greetings from Belgium.

"Dutch Clog-a-War "  is dat van een klomp ??

Welcome, and greetings from Belgium.

Welcome, and greetings from Belgium

The helmsman is standing at the back of the ship. These windows are at the front.

And Vasa did not have a forecastle

12 hours ago, G.L. said:

Patrick,

 

 

You are surely on the right track!

6 hours ago, md1400cs said:

As always Patrick -- fun to follow and learn

 

Thanks for the positive comments

5 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

Oh dear. Sorry for putting you to all that extra work - that's certainly not what I intended. Still, I think you're doing the right thing and you'll end up happier with it.

 

Steven

No worries.
This is going to look much better then my first idea 

Thanks Fabio,

After searching through my documentation, I found that Steven is absolutely right. Going back to the beginning of this log I came across Matthew Baker's drawing. The sides of the fore castle must be as identical as possible all around. Wales, symbols, figures they have to go through in one line as much as possible.

So first i need to remove some pieces.

And then start to  rebuild.
2 doors are provided with "sufficient" passage height. Parts are first pre-painted as much as possible. But, here and there some area's will have to be sanded and repainted.

2 Dry fitted parts

I think i am back on the right track. Thanks for following

As always.
Beautiful and detailed.

Great work GL
.

Yes, Welcome back 

Ps,

Great model.

Greetings from Belgium

I am probably too late with this. Sorry.

If you paint the deck that is under the grating black then it will look more like there is an "space" under this grating.
So, just paint the piece of deck under the grating black. The grating itself is not be painted black.

Ps,

If you do not like this yourself. Then you should not do this.
This is just free advice.

12 hours ago, mfrazier said:

I also made the little "hickey with a window". I'm sure someone can tell me what it is actually called.

that is fore the helmsman

Nice work, great to see you back at the shipyard 

just started following
nice work Fabio

Welcome to MSW

Greetings from Belgium

4 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

This looks good, Patrick. Apart from your own pragmatic reasons for having a single large opening for the forecastle, contemporary pictures of carracks (yes, I know, 50-100 years or so earlier) show them with large openings both under the main deck at the break of the aftercastle, and at the entry to the forecastle. I realise you're doing a galleon not a carrack, but I think you're on the right track with this.

 

And yes - the support beam for the deck beams is the beam shelf.

 

Steven

Steven, 

I also do not find this a good solution. I expected (actually hoped) for this comment.
Early galleons had this opening (1540-1550), but after this period not.

For the time being I place only  the 2 beams. and think further about the what to do : 1 opening / 2 doors.
It is perhaps best to place 2 doors and ignore the problem between the block and the capstan.

The doors will always remain visible. The problem with the block not.

Great work.

Thanks for the comments,

The forecastle.
What looked simple was actually a bit complicated. Where to place the doors ? Where to place the ladders? The height of the deck ?

The hatch to the lower deck is in the way. It was not smart of me to provide this hatch at this place.

First the height of the deck is determined. My assistant is very helpful in this.

Then the support beam (beamshelf?) Of the deck beams is placed.

The location of doors and ladders is now being studied.
2 doors or openings on the side is not an option, the block in the fore castle can not be operated with the capstan.

The only solution on this model is one large opening in the middle without doors. The block in the fore castle can be operated with the capstan.

The opening will be made wider than the example so that access to the fore castle is easier.

I now know how to proceed. And looking at drawings from that time both solutions can be correct.

To be continued. Thanks for following.

16th century cannonbarrels

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/Theses/pdf-files/Hoskins-MA2004.pdf

Batavia (early 17th century) rigging

https://www.modelships.de/Museums_and_replicas/Batavia/Photos_Batavia.htm

Great work

You are on the right track with your GH. The changes you want to make are a very good idea