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aliluke

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Everything posted by aliluke

  1. aliluke
    Hell Bob - forget the tidy up the kit solutions - well done too. The fact that the curve of the kit made part exactly fits your bow curve is a testimony to your precision. It is looking very sharp. As for paint drying...I say to myself wait, wait, wait and then go what the....and then I regret my haste.
  2. aliluke
    Good to see you progressing Ron. The hull planking looks great. I see you are experimenting with blue. I can recommend Humbrol #157 matt mixed with a little grey. I found this recommendation somewhere here and really like the results. I also think the wales look good if they are polished off to a dull sheen. I use tissue paper to do this.
  3. aliluke
    Hi Pops Hair dryers draw more electricity than anything - believe it! I holiday in a place which is off grid. Solar and PV panels provide the only power. Hair dryers are banned! They'll suck the life out of a fully charged battery in seconds and then we live in darkness. As per my PM, you don't need a hair dryer or any other device. Wet the wood, clamp it around a curved object - a cup or some such thing - and wait for it to dry all by itself. Slow, dull but very gentle on the wood and effective.
  4. aliluke
    Good to see you back at it Vitus. Agree with Martin and B.E the quarter badges are really fitting in. The fit of the upper deck looks perfect and the cannon strategy is an interesting variant. Glad to hear you are dusting the deck! It sure looks dusty .
  5. aliluke
    Yes the red lines are probably more correct but no! Do not cut now! Wait until you get the decking, inner bulwarks and outer planking on and then make those decisions. The final adjustments of these parts only needs to made just before you fit the cap rails - hold off until then. Better to cut later when you have all aspects in place and can judge the correct lines. I have exactly the same issue with Fly. You are much better off having stuff to remove than having stuff to add!!!
  6. aliluke
    Great work on the dead eyes and chains Jesse. These things are amongst the hardest in my opinion but your method looks really sound and looks great as well. I send to you an expression we have here - Kia kaha (it means - stay strong - and is pronounced key-ah car-ha).
  7. aliluke
    Hi Ken That is good thread that Gary pointed you to. The most common method on the photographed ships shows the ropes of the side tackles frapped (I think that is the term). Blue Ensign has done this on his Pegasus model and it gets rid of the coils. The advantage of the coils though is they allow you to adjust the tackles after placing them on the eye bolts. When adjusted the rope end can be glued to the deck and the coil used to cover that. If they are frapped I'd guess you have to get the length exactly right before placing the tackle on the hooks. While I'll be doing side tackles - I like the detail that they add - I think I will leave off the rear tackle. I might try frapping as it seems authentic and keeps the deck clear. As for wire - the blackened copper wire I use is very soft - I don't know the gauge, it is very fine - but is unbreakable. Even worrying it back and forth to make it fatigue won't break it. It is called "Jeweiry Appropriation Copper Line" and is made by "Lucky & Lucky". The NZ agents are Craftrunner - www.craftrunner.co.nz.
  8. aliluke
    Hi Ken I reckon there are some good points made above. You need more room - Space the tackle bolts wider at the port than the breeching ropes. The eye for the tackle hook should be further back and behind the breeching rope eye and ring on the carriage. I use extremely thin blackened jewellery wire for wrapping the blocks. It probably should be rope but it is very easy to use and manipulate. I find that does not break or bend when rigging if handled gently. Here is picture of my AVS cannon rig. 2.5mm blocks, 0.25mm tackle rope and 0.6mm breeching rope. My mistake here is the double block for the tackles at the bulwarks - have since learned that it should be a single. My coils are also too big and too long.
  9. aliluke
    Sweet Denis. The very few power tools I've looked at would head me here. Hate to ask but I will - how much was the shipping? P.S. Any luck with Beechmark?
  10. aliluke
    Hi Peter Just realised I've never commented on your log although I browse it frequently. You have done a great job in every respect and the sails look fantastic - as B.E says, it brings it to life. It tempts me but I fear sails are step too far for my skills.
  11. aliluke
    Looking brilliant Ollie. I can't decide which side of the hull I prefer - they both look so good. The rigging of the boat off the stern davits looks spot on. A great model in every respect!
  12. aliluke
    Hi Timmo - not stolen, just like everything here, happily shared. Great work by you, I could do it outside today too but lack a table for such things.
  13. aliluke
    Frank I'd trust the bulkheads. Fair them for the hull planking and flush the deck to them when that fairing is done. That's my intuition - no experience with this model but very tempted by it. Nice lines and nice work by you so far (I'm sure that will continue too).
  14. aliluke
    Your model is amazing Denis. The rigging - just looking at - does my head in. I can't imagine how you maintain control over that many lines. Fantastic work.
  15. aliluke
    I'd go for solid straps Jesse. Do them in wire. But that is because I don't like chains...I think they look like a cheap and quick solution. Solid straps are, I think, more correct for the era and give a more solid appearance to the assembly. I'm happy to be re-butted on this suggestion!
  16. aliluke
    I managed to accidently delete part of my post just before I posted it so that it didn't make sense - edited it above.
  17. aliluke
    I'm sure it depends on the wood but I only fix any type of bent wood after it is completely dry. When dry it tends to flatten out the bend but it has a memory and will return to the bend with very little persuasion.
  18. aliluke
    One thing I never attempted to do was take the scuppers right through the hull. Getting the alignment right would be very difficult in my opinion and faking them as dead ends from both the outside and inside is an option. My scuppers are very small compared to yours - I'm not sure whether there is a right or wrong in this regard. Have a look at the first four photos in my #4 post on my log and you can see that my scuppers are dead ends. Makes it much easier to get the positions correct - particularly on the inside face. But if you are game to take them right through go for it.
  19. aliluke
    Stern davits gets my vote. Clean deck, cannons, a nice detail on the davits and probably correct (although I haven't the faintest idea). Go with your eye... for your decision, my eye heads aft.
  20. aliluke
    Hi Timmo I've just been contemplating whether to add lids to my sweep ports. The kit doesn't show them but some contemporary models of similar ships to mine do. You have a very tidy solution there and they look very good - I'll have to keep thinking...
  21. aliluke
    Looking very fine to me Bob. A simple but effective jig. Fingers crossed for the morning removal of the clamps!
  22. aliluke
    Looks amazing Mike! Congratulations! Pegasus next?
  23. aliluke
    I agree with Spyglass. The top of the bulkheads should be your guide. That said I hated this step and got it slightly wrong myself - how wrong is yet to be determined as I work my way through the outer works of the hull...time for a beer indeed.
  24. aliluke
    Hi Hamilton I'm jealous - a new kitchen being made while you have a holiday in Maui!!! We should all be so blessed . Your finishing work on Blandford can surely wait for these dual pleasures - I'm happy to wait to see it finished any old time and I am looking forward to your next build(s) as well.
  25. aliluke
    Nothing to suggest there Steve as it looks nigh on perfect just the way you have done it. Your jib boom and tops look great. Your rendition of Endeavour is brilliant.

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