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cog

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Everything posted by cog

  1. cog
    If what you do is muddling, I wouldn't know what my poor efforts are called ... and for learning on the job ... don't we all ... try at least ... Druxey, they are toddlers, so it should be the proper height ...
  2. cog
    For the time being ... I stick to the easy scale, so I can bully you around with your detailed, detail sets Besides ... you seem to have forgotten that everything should be bigger in the US If some European bloke suddenly starts to build large scale models ... that would be the beginning of the end of that reality ... Have you yet decided on making a submerged version of bissy, or still ripping parts off, adding some other detailed detail in some obscure spot, based on her tour of duty
  3. cog
    Not used to have your leg stretched ... I see ... Hope you don't mind me sticking to the easier 1/350 stuff ... still need to finish some twentyeight tripple AAs for Musashi of 14pcs each ...those give me a bloody headache Be glad, the price inh the US is better than on this side of the pond ($14 - $16)
  4. cog
    u mean it's HUGHE in the scheme of things. When I look at the 1/350 tidbits most of us manage you are getting a stroll in the park, mate ... Not an easy one but still I've had most primers now, but presently I stick to Tamiya rattlecan. I have to try out the Vallejo rattle cans. I've got one ready, but not yet the ship to try it on
  5. cog
    I know the sentiment. I'm trying to squeeze some build time into my work schedule, but I have to refrain from the more elaborate things. I am working with a Belgium customer ... coincidence ... Take care Chris
  6. cog
    Nice ... one remark though, candles have that orange, yellow ochre, whitish yellow gradient. Red(dish) would be, especially working at a small scale, to dark Cheers
  7. cog
    By now you must be multi tasking! Take care ... both of your son and your build ... and remember to have some fun
  8. cog
    bricks are baked to make them durable - weather resistant - however, your regular oven won't do. don't fret, your solution works too. you might want to use a satin or matt water resistant varnish. glossy lacquer ... not so mill like ...
  9. cog
    how are they positioned?
  10. cog
    You are right, there. Take into account that for the inside to dry completely it takes a bit longer (at your size certainly an hour ). However, since, I presume, you won't bake your bricks, you can buildwithout the need to wait for them to dry throughout. Bricks used to be molded, and dried in the mold, when outwardly dry, demolded and stacked to dry further for baking. The process has changed considerably since the industrial revolution
  11. cog
    Ed, Instead of twisting wire, I have knotted yarn of the approximate thickness, which came rather close to the desired result. Come to think of it, it's what may turn out what I need for my current build
  12. cog
    All in a day's work ... isn't it fun? It's hobby, so people say it should be ... we modellers must be gluttons for pain ... physically and metally. Fortunately I'm a mental case, so I like the PE ... You removed the phone booths ... how will those poor boys call mamy, when things get scawwy? I'm impressed with your destructive perseverance of your own work, I hope, at the rate you are going, you won't be taking her apart instead of building her up ... you could make a sunken diorama - you mentioned earlier - yourself if your destructive mood goes to far ... She does look very sleek ... Won't the wooden deck be a pain when you have to paint fixed parts???
  13. cog
    Runnin' start mate ... as usual you're hard to keep up with (especially as I'm getting slow ). Deck looks rather spiffy ... maybe for a future build you could try your hand at pastels on top of the washes ... easier to "smudge" I found at my previous destroyer's decks. handrails turned out nice 'n woody-ish ... keep it up
  14. cog
    so glad you couldn't stick to just a few builds ... I really got concerned for your sanity ... nice kit though ... look forward to your tricks, and creative brain waves ...
  15. cog
    Hope to get some more time on this tribal this weekend, although, work is lurkin' ... Started on the stanchions ... got a third on ... will need to get some eyelets on the deck for the funnel rigging before it gets to crowded ...
  16. cog
    thanks for sharing, Mike. Maybe next year we can go together ...
  17. cog
    It does, but it gives you a lot more time on the model, and a lot more detail. ON the other hand it largely depends on the budget you have and what you really want to spend on your model. She is looking good
  18. cog
    You lucky man, that's near Bordeaux! Looks quite impressive. Didn't know about the festival ... is it a yearly event?
  19. cog
    I would expect some dowels to be used against lateral movement, Steven., although, at this scale, I presume, they'll hardly be visible. Thorough job on the yards
  20. cog
    Perhaps you should be left to building YA to your "interpretation/view" as it is your buildlog, Ed. I know of very little people whom give such a detailed, and I think I should say, in depth review of their work, so others can benefit from it ... still enjoy it from the (mostly) silent side line Cheers
  21. cog
    Haven't found any steel Tamiya ones ... What's the distance between stanchions on the Seydlitz ... length of the ship ... number of drills to buy ... oh golly we're going to have a drill of a time ...
  22. cog
    You're partly right John, actually it is dual pixel raw (my mistake - me stupid foreigner), it does increase the number of pixels which can improve sharpness, depending on the software one uses image manipulation has a few additional features too. These files do not have to be larger necessarily. I have Raw files which are actually larger than a lot of the dp raw files. The size of the file depends largely on the richness, and depth of your image. Furthermore, it is a misconception to think a large file has a better image quality than a small file. It depends on the colour palette, and a few more factors. Raw images are what are called lossless compressed images, jpeg images are also compressed, but when compressing, these loose data, not discernable but every time they are manipulated and saved they loose a fraction of their data, not visible to the human eye, hence my remark that when I pass them through Lightroom they loose data, and when I manipulate them in e.g. CS6 they loose futher data. Gaetan, Until I need to cut metal instead of brass PE. Sometimes the parts on the frets bend easily, and slicing through isn't an option, because the part will distort beyond "repair". Hence pressing down is the alternative (I quit using exacto blades very soon after I started using them because of the poor quality). When cutting into softer materials like wood a scalpel like blade will - in my experience - follow the grain, because there is some flex due to it's thickness, which makes it prone to break under pressure Coq .. Rooster (love the one prepared in wine)
  23. cog
    Ha the painting isn't the problem, ripping them off the fret is! The metal is so much more a pain than the brass ...
  24. cog
    Sorry for hyjacking your build log Gaetan. Last remark on this subject: So I have double raw image, high res, and open it in lightroom (loss of data), export it to jpg (even more loss of data) and then start to polish it up in CS6 to compensate for the loss of data ... I'd better buy a cheaper camera with a less quality raw image format but better than the image which remains after passing it through one program after another ... Gaetan, Back to knives ... talking about razor sharp. I would have expected a Swan Morton to be sharp ... the disadvantage about scalpels is the tendency to wobble whilst cutting under pressure. On the other hand, I wouldn't know what to expect from one of yours when I would be cutting PE at the scale I work at presently.
  25. cog
    Thanks, it's not so much the agony as it is the constant pressure not to break a bit, or have it slip and scratch the paint, like a scraper ... the next part is agony, cutting the stanchions ... I use the metal ones from Peter Hall /Atlantic Models

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