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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Hi Rob, Sailor 123 and Ed. I had a similar discussion recently for in my HMCSS Victoria log, and for which the Contract for her building specified shroud fairleads. My resulting research and consultation also led me to believe that several lines would be led through a triple hole shroud fairlead and down to a common belaying pin in the rail. These were for 'groups' of lines that would be worked together for a given sail. This accords with Ed's thinking and reinforces the solution I had adopted also. cheers Pat
  2. Hi John, messages crossed in the air Great photo which helps me with another issue the location/positioning of the bollards I don't think she had these sheet winches as they are not mentioned in the Contract which is specific for most items fitted. I also agree that the Jarvis winches would not have been fitted. However, the Victoria while built as a warship in many features and fittings was manned as a merchant ship and had many labour-saving features fitted. This was one of the main reasons she was Barque rigged also. many thanks for the feedback and info, it certainly helps me to focus in on the most likely candidates of the equipment to be fitted/shown. cheers Pat
  3. Hi Eberhard and John, thanks for the very useful feedback. I agree that the first is the most likely candidate and most closely resembles a drawing in Underhill's book. I will go with that. I have also found this in the meantime: The next thing is to work out exactly where these would have been located as this image suggests it was not on the centreline? I would also like to try and get some decent drawings if they exist - does anyone have any ideas where they may be located? cheers Pat
  4. Nice neat work mate; that stern is coming together (pun intended) very well indeed and is a testament to your approach to this build. cheers Pat
  5. Looks good despite the gaps Danny. Great to see you continuing on with your informative approach similar to when you worked in wood; we all learn from that. cheers Pat
  6. Hi again folks, some help please. According to the Contract "Sundry Fittings. - Metal spider hoops, with brass belaying pins to each mast, and hoops with hooks and rollers for awning, a patent winch on fore and main masts, …" I am trying to determine what these 'patent winches' were. According to Underhill in Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Transport, page 149, "The use of deck capstans as mentioned earlier in this Chapter also went far to reduce the labour in hoisting yards, but the final stage was the introduction of the halliard winch in place of the rope purchase, (Fig 148c [not shown here]). These winches are very simple, and although the supporting frame may vary in different makes, the mechanical design is the same. The principle feature is the drum, which not only does the hauling but also stores the wire taken in, so there is no need to feed it off the winch. A large hand operated flywheel at one end drives the drum through a worm and pinion gear, while at the other end of the drum is a band brake." Noting that Victoria had wire rope for much of her standing and lower rigging, I think it safe to assume this may be the patent winch being referenced? I also note the use of 'singular' form of 'winch' in the Contract wording. A quick search of the internet found a catalog from Bruner and Lay (undated) in which several versions of single and double winches for use with wire rope for hoisting loads (the catalog is for mining equipment but the princile would be the same? see following: However: as the caption to the following picture (taken from the Sea Shanties website, also indicates a 'singular' winch of a similar style but double sided. "THE HALYARD WINCH has replaced the use of the capstan for hauling on the topsails in many sailing ships. The machine does the pulling on the ropes and the singing of a shanty will not help it to work more efficiently. The capstan is still used, however, for other purposes, and can be seen on the right of this photograph, which was taken on board the Penang." Does anyone have further information on these winches? OR, does anyone think this is too large a leap of faith? cheers Pat
  7. Thanks Jason, Appreciate that. She looks a little rough around the edges where I am still working on it as I had to take off most of the old paint so she looks worse than she actually is I probably won't repaint for a while yet while I continue to sort out all the fitting that go onto the bulwarks. The scuppers are the next task. cheers Pat
  8. Very good metal-smithing Gerhard, that small wheel turned out nicely. cheers Pat
  9. experimenting with that as you ask Mark - only concern is slicing it if I fill the tube. I think the safest bet is to fill after I cut the slice from the tube but run the risk of getting excess on the edges and sides which can't be cleaned until it is dry. Get back to you on that. cheers Pat
  10. Those shrouds look great set up Ed. I particularly like the colour and lay of the lanyards which look really good. cheers Pat
  11. Quite a stack of frames there Gaetan. That will be a big hull when assembled. cheers Pat
  12. Very nice rigging work Dave (and the 'sinners' in the dockyard - see your post ) I did not query this when I rigged mine, but this is a neater solution you have achieved. cheers Pat
  13. Thanks John. The research is the hardest part as there is not much direct info; we're having to make a lot of assumptions based on the wording of the Contract. For example, we know she had a single Browne and Harfield Capstan but not exactly where it was placed - same for Elliott Riding Bitts etc etc cheers Pat
  14. Hi Eberhard and thank you very much for that very helpful feedback. I have tried to find smaller rod but to date can only get 3mm BUT only in bulk and at 1m lengths. This supplier is quite distant (here in Aust) so postage is an issue. Based on your info I will look further into this. I like the idea of the acrylic cement. Noting the small tube size, would a drop of this solidify within the ferrules and remain fixed to allow me to work it? That way I would not need rod at all? As to turning, yep, I have learned those lessons the hard way I take very very small cuts and pause after every three. I have also found the appropriate feed speed and rpm to make this work but it is very tedious. I only need 10 all up so thankfully, I will not need to turn too many more as I have found doing 15mm lengths the best. cheers, and many thanks again. Pat
  15. That will sand back nicely Russ as the planks appear to butt up very nice and cleanly. cheers Pat
  16. Hi folks, well after a delay due to holidays and some further research, I decided I needed to make some further progress with the build. I am trying to create and fit all of the necessary detail to the inside of the bulwarks that need to be done prior to painting as I do not wish to mar the finish once the paint has been applied (airbrush). I am also hoping to identify and fit all the necessary fitting to the inside of the bulwarks prior to fitting any deck furniture and equipment as these latter items will impact my ability to add detail later - hence the research. I have fitted the pinrails, the chock in the bow through which the jib(s)' downhauls etc are led, and have made a start on the after bench through which the stern davits are fitted. The following photos show my progress on these items; the after bench and davits are only loose/dry fitted at the moment.. I have yet to let in the ash shute, pissdales and heads. i am also just starting to contemplate where and how to let in the scuppers. I am also experimenting with the Lang Scuttles, which look a little like a porthole from outside, but are quite unique. I have located a drawing (following) showing the detail and an article in the Nautical Magazine of 1841 (extract shown) which provides me with some relevant detail. essentially I will mimic the external appearance only by using a very thin walled brass tube (drilled out) into which I will set some thin acrylic . I will then drill out the holes in the hull to match the OD of the assembly and glue thin slices of this material into them. Unfortunately I only have 10mm acrylic rod so I have had to turn the diameter down on my lathe - this proved somewhat difficult as the rod tended to melt if I had the cutting angle or the rpm wrong- persistence paid off I would value any feedback on how to turn acrylic properly as i cannot get rod of the correct diameter (being so small - 1.8mm to fit the ID of the brass tube). The following photograph shows that I can achieve this look and my experiment in a scrap of wood does the trick. When I shine a light behind, it mimics the appearance of thick glass. The expanded brass tube slice (top right in the photo) is the start of my experimentation for the scupper inlet in the waterways. My current punch is not suited and I will need to turn a better punch and die arrangement to use. cheers Pat
  17. Sorry I have missed this log until now Amalio; simply astounding quality and an inspiration for all modellers. cheers Pat
  18. Those shrouds look great set up the way you have done them Ed. cheers Pat
  19. Very nice updates Dan; that is a very good rendition of the windows using styrene and will add very nicely to the great detail you are achieving. As Druxey also said, the portholes are a marked improvement. I am very much enjoying following your build. cheers Pat
  20. Very nice work on Speedwell Greg and best wishes for a successful publication. cheers Pat
  21. Some nice ideas among that lot Greg, she should look good. The main stressed hull areas would be the water outlets/discharge area and rust streaks from angles/joined equipment where water would collect. Some rust would develop from the anchor and cable rubbing on the hull also. In 1945 I think extreme long periods of action may have been very few for Japanese Navy? cheers Pat
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