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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed
    Hi Boris Just curious, but do the instructions call for port stops on the top sill as well as the bottom sill and the frames (sides). I have not seen stops on the the upper sills on contemporary models or books based on contemporary sources for the time of Agamemnon. As with many things in our hobby, maybe Agamemnon was an exception to the norm for her time period. From fifty years earlier I have seen pics of a sectional model of a Centurion 1732( 60) at RMG that does show stops on the upper sill. Thanks Allan
  2. allanyed
    I think one problem is that there are dozens of sizes of blocks and rope on any given ship. For our models, 5 or 6 sizes would probably be satisfactory for most folks, but using only 2 or 3 might be an issue for some. If you go to the Danny Vadas spread sheet in the articles base here at MSW you will get all the rope sizes based on the formulas he took from Lees Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War although he used the wrong formula for the years 1670-1710 so every mast, spar and rope is the wrong size for that particular era. Before 1670 and from 1711 to 1860 the spread sheet seems to be accurate. The rope you show indeed looks like rope but is very fuzzy and from the photo appears to be very shiny as well. But, if you are happy with it, that is the crux of it. Allan
  3. allanyed
    Gregory Is the knee of the head solid wood or plywood? The reason I ask is that when you taper it from the stem to the forward edge, if it is plywood, the laminations will show big time. I'm not sure the amount of taper, but for Rattlesnake, am I correct that it will taper from about 7.5 inches at the stem to about 4 inches at the forward edge of the bobstay? The following is based on the RMG plan view drawing from the Wiki site. The knee of the head is added to the RMG plan view drawing. Allan
  4. allanyed
    The MK blocks look to be very nice in appearance. I looked on-line but they only appear to go to 5mm which is the equivalent of 9.45" at 1:48, where as there are blocks up to about 16" needed. Do you know if they make them in larger sizes as well? Also, the blocks you show for Syren look nothing like what is on their website for the new CNC made blocks which go up 6.35mm. Photo below of the Syren blocks. Allan
  5. allanyed
    Thanks Greg, I am anxious to see the pics!! Allan
  6. allanyed
    David, What material is the rope and the seizing material made of? How are you wrapping the seizing line to begin with? This video should be useful in actually making your seizing, just using a needle and your seizing cord in place of the full size rope in the vid. At our scales it is not so easy, but can be done without any glue, although I would use a dab of the applicable glue anyway. I hope some other members will post some show and tell methods that they use with success that do not include CA. Allan
  7. allanyed
    SUbaron Note that tea has a pH of about 5 thus on the acid side of neutral and the sails will degrade more quickly compared to sails not stained with tea. For the future, consider that cloth sails cannot be made to scale nor can the sewing of the seams of the panels and edges be to scale for the more common scales of 1:48 and smaller. If you wish, you can research a lot of information on alternative non-woven materials such as silkspan and associated acrylic coatings in many discussions here at MSW. There is an $8 booklet on making sails by David Antscherl available at Seawatch books that shows how to make excellent looking sails that are not out of scale and any color you want without worry of using an acidic stain like tea or coffee. Allan
  8. allanyed
    Welcome aboard, hope you enjoy the voyage. You decision to start with the three kit series is extremely wise! You will learn excellent techniques and it will provide a basis from which you can move on to a larger project down the road. Depending on your tastes and desires for future projects it will also help you to study which of the few more complex kits are worth an investment in time and money and the others which are a not. Being confined, if you will, there is always room for a small library which will help you as you move along. And, of course, researching MSW subjects here will help you avoid many pitfalls and provide you with over 40,000 advisors. Allan
  9. allanyed
    Go with the above recommendations if possible. I would rather melt a horse hoof on the kitchen stove (while the admiral is away) and use that rather than use CA on any rigging. Learned the hard way about using CA a long time ago. Allan
  10. allanyed
    Or, some builders may want to consider using each casting as a maquette then making these out of wood like the real thing. Allan
  11. allanyed
    Old Salt, Great idea. If the builder wants to end up with an Admiralty style model without rigging it will save some money in not paying for materials that will not be used. By the same token they can order the rigging set later or get/make their own blocks, rope, &c. as some bulders like to do. Nothing wrong with having choices and it seems to work for Syren. Allan
  12. allanyed
    Dave, I am with the replace everything you can if it is not right crowd. Be picky though, some things may be fixable or good as they are. I assume you are referring to Chuck Passaro's Syren Ship Model Company. Regarding rope, as you are no doubt aware, for standing rigging 18th century ships were most often coated with Stockholm or similar pine tar thus dark brown, not "road" tar black like seen in some kits. Chuck provides it in this color as well as typical tans for running rigging. There is a long thread here at MSW from 2017 on the subject of standing rigging color and coatings. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/15655-stockholm-tar/ As to blocks, many members replace kit blocks with more realistic looking ones for obvious reasons, but as normal it is your choice. As explained above cost is always a concern for the kit maker as well as the end customer, as it should be, so the decision to spend extra money comes down to the individual's desires and budget. Below is the color of Syren's great looking rope.
  13. allanyed
    Welcome from another Florida member!! Allan
  14. allanyed
    Totally understood. There are great videos out there and lots of discussion here at MSW by those that have tried and succeeded so you are in good hands when you decide to give it a try. Allan
  15. allanyed
    Glenn, serving the shrouds at the bight or for the entire length of the foremost shroud is very easy. A simple serving machine helps but it is not so difficult to do by hand. Syren makes a nice unit and alternatively it is not so difficult to make one with a few simple gears and scrap wood. I would think that if no kit maker currently explains or shows these servings, one of them will see it as an opportunity to improve the product and beat the competition. Allan
  16. allanyed
    Glad to help Lyle. We're all here to help each other as best we can. After serious ship modeling for near 50 years I still have questions and seek advice with great responses from members here when I cannot find it on my own. Unfortunately sometimes questioning and/or advice are not well received, especially by some kit designers when you point out an obvious error, even when it would be easy for them to correct it. Looking forward to your next installment. Allan
  17. allanyed
    Druxey When you say very thin paper, are you speaking of tissue as gift box stuffing or something else? Do you think silk span would be too thick? Thanks Allan
  18. allanyed
    I would look at contemporary models of most any ship as well as the Victory as she stands today. While today she is still a wealth of information, with the many rebuilds there are likely differences between what she looked like in 1805 and in the 21st century. Maybe the stop on the top sill rather than the bottom sill is one of those things. Always a good idea to do some research on every part before installing it. As you no doubt know, there are thousands of photos of contemporary models on the RMG website to name just one source with multiple views of each vessel that are often very helpful. One other example that I would question is that she has her name on the stern today which she (as well as the rest of RN) did not have before 1780 or after 1790 by order of the Admiralty. I have seen exceptions on contemporary models but this might have been the model builder's idea depending on the purpose of the model presentation. Allan
  19. allanyed
    Good points gentlemen. As with any model, the builder can do as they please even if it is non-conventional. My apologies for bringing it up, just thought it might have been of interest to some folks. Allan
  20. allanyed
    The kit looks great! Where do the curved name pieces go? By the shape I am guessing the stern. By order of the Admiralty names were not permitted on the sterns before 1780 or after 1790 and well into the 18th century. We have seen exceptions but the only two contemporary paintings I could find of her do not have the name on the stern that I can see so I am assuming (I know, that is not usually a smart thing to do) that in 1794 there should be no name. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-109649 is one example. Allan
  21. allanyed
    As has been said, space is the determining factor. I have a deep garage where we opted for a two deep car space on one side rather than a third bedroom. (Too many bedrooms invites company to stay too long 😀} In that relatively small space I have a home made table, a six foot desk table from an office that was replacing furniture and throwing out some desks, and my favorite, a heavy bench that my grandfather bought about the time my dad was born in 1919. t still has the wooden screws for the wooden vices and probably 1/8" thick layer of shellac and such. My favorite story with "Didi" was when he was doing some antique restoration work for Joe and Rose Kennedy and got to meet them at their home in West Palm Beach. Now if I can only get someone like that as a client!!! Go with whatever fits, you cannot have too many work surfaces. Clutter??? In my case, somewhat perpetual unless another model builder or potential buyer is coming buy. I have seen one relatively small space that was as organized and clean as a hospital operating room though and absolutely over the top superior models coming from it. I will not mention any name (Druxey) .....oops, did not mean to Iet that slip. Allan
  22. allanyed
    Clementine, You may want to consider removing the planking below the wales before going further then study the great tutorials in the articles data base on how to plank a hull here at MSW https://thenrg.org/resource/articles and Chuck Passaro's four part video on planking (modelshipworld.com/topic/22975-chuck-passaros-planking-videos-where-are-they) I know it easy to say remove the planks and not so easy to do, but what you have done is going to have planks coming to a point and not reaching the rabbet as they should. They are sweeping up like on a Viking ship. Look at some planking expansion drawings as well and you will see every plank lands on the rabbet at both ends. In the drawing below the lower drawing is the outboard planking, the upper the inboard. On the other hand, if you are happy with it as it is, go for it 😀 Allan
  23. allanyed
    Hi Glenn, Based on your build I find this kit to be interesting and well thought out with some nice attention to detail. Does the kit supply the rigging line and does it explain about the foremost shrouds being served for their entire length to protect them from chafing? Many thanks for sharing your build with us. Allan
  24. allanyed
    As ships in the 17th, 18th and into the 19th century had capstans that were made of wood I "wood" go that route for a 15th century ship. I would not assume accuracy on replicas of any ship that are not based on contemporary plans or paintings for information. Unfortunately I do not believe there is such contemporary information available specifically for the Nina. Allan
  25. allanyed
    Your photography is to be as greatly admired as your woodworking. Beautiful Allan

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