turangi

A long delayed update on this thread, I have been sidelined by some other issues. Unfortunately, in my working time I was more interested in building than taking photos and documenting the build but here are a few things I learned and a couple of tips (use them at your own peril from this relative neophyte)! 1. Take great pains to set all the frames at the correct height! I thought I had done so but a mm low or high crept in and sure made a difference. I spent some frustrating time sanding or shimming frames to achieve a relatively fair landing for planks and ceilings. In the photos you can see the deck beams laid are going to require some frame additions or subtractions on their upper ends. In setting the beams I took pains to be sure that they were level on both sides so the boat doesn't appear to be listing. 2. Setting the clamps: When setting the clamps I took a strip of sandpaper and placed it grit side to the frame between the clamp and frame in the approximate location and pulled it up and down to create a full contact surface before gluing the clamp, seemed to work well. 3. The wet well: I placed the lower logs using the supports going to the beam to ascertain the correct angle for the port and starboard logs before gluing them in place. I then attached the supports inside the logs when they should have been on the outside of the logs. Created a bit of an issue according to the plans but not major in my mind although the naval architects will probable be after my hide. I thoroughly enjoyed building the cabin and bunks as well as as installing the soles and ceilings. I have only done the port side so far as I may leave some planks off the starboard hull to show the interior as show in the box photo. This has been a challenging project, as is said "don't sacrifice good for perfection". I am of an age I don't suspect I will ever remotely attempt or try to achieve perfection or even good, I'll accept decent at least in my eye and those of unsuspecting viewers. I am enjoying the build and I guess that is what we all want to do?

Beautiful build and the spreadsheet idea was brilliant, although I didn't see labor on there! Look forward to your next build.

Excellent advice Allen!

You might want to try a cabinet scraper on the decks to remove the excess black on the planks. Sanding tends to smear the color but a scraper removes a bit of wood and leaves the simulated caulk.

Sorry the photos didn't post as expected but I purchased the $7.79 one rather than the exact same tool for $47.89.

I recently decided I wanted a digital height gauge for setting frames etc.. I went on Amazon to check prices, I certainly didn’t need a top of the line but something with good reviews and reasonably accurate. I found one I liked and was astounded at the different prices for the exact same tool! If you search for something in Amazon it is worth your while to scroll through the pages to check the prices offer by the various venders! I bought the lowest price one and received it in 5 days with free shipping. I did test the tool against a known accurate scale it it seems very accurate. No battery included, but a minor issue.

I don't own a Veritas spokeshave but have found their miniature block plane one of my favorite tools. I have used it often and to very satisfying results. It fits my hand perfectly and I would not hesitate to recommend it for appropriate miniature model work. The blade was very sharp upon arrival and it is very easy to adjust unlike other hobby planes I have tried. I also have a set of their miniature chisels that I really like for making very precise cuts when needed. I recently used them to clean up a rabbet and they were far superior to a scalpel or a hobby knife with a chisel blade. I am not a tool junky but really do like these tools I mentioned and have found them very useful.

Better late than never I guess, I am working on the Emma C. Berry.

Great idea for your log, I look forward to following it! Probably won't get so heavy you will have to use those jack stands though.😏

I edge glued the planks on my last model and tried to be careful not to use excessive glue. I then used, and highly recommend using a cabinet scraper for the initial removal of excess glue and unevenness in the planking followed by sanding. My caveat is that I painted the hull and did not leave it natural so I have no idea how my efforts would have turned out using stain. Cabinet scrapers are available in many profiles and I have found them an extremely useful tool. Other areas I stain such as decks I always use a pre stain conditioner to even out stain color and use gel stains as they make it very easy to control the color. I have found that using a pre-stain wood conditioner to allow the even penetration of the stain really helps. I also use the Minwax gel stain and it is easy to control the color. I rub it in with like shoe polish with a cloth and it allows me to to make it as light or dark as I desire.

Looking at that rigging kit sure makes my teeth hurt! Excellent job though.

Looking great! The cheek pieces were a challenge but after many looks at the illustrations and much trepidation turned out to my satisfaction.

re: the coal bins, not sure if it an issue you will face but I had to redo mine. I had left a bunker open so as to be able to simulate it as full of coal. I had put some scrap wood in the bottom so as not to have to fill it completely. I made the coal using aquarium filter carbon I had from a long departed aquarium. I mixed it with moderately diluted white glue and put it in. Alas I could see bare wood under the coal so I scooped it all out before it set and after the wood in the bunker dried I painted it black and mixed up more coal and put it in, I am well pleased with the result.

You can barely make out the filler piece you referenced in your post but this is how I shaped mine.

I took a little different approach to broken frames that seemed to work well but you seem to have solved your issues. Posted October 2, 2019 Made a bit more progress. Painted frames prior to installation and installed them in the rear portion of the boat. As mentioned in other logs and also in the kit instructions the center frames are very delicate and I did manage to break a couple. I glued them back together and used a nub from the matrix lightly glued to span the broken area. I applied glue to the char area of the nub and attached them to the char area of the frame. I experimented first and the extra piece will easily pop off once the frames are in place and well supported by the surrounding structure but provide extra strength during assembly. I started finishing decks, seats etc.. For the floor and rear floor I took measurements from the plans and scored the wood to resemble pank seams. I used a sanding sealer to try and keep stain even and less blotchy, I will finish them with a mixture of Testors Dull and Gloss coat for a bit of sheen. I am using Minwax Gel Stain and find it much easier to control than their normal liquid stains. I just rub it in with a cloth until I achieve the desired result. The first couple of parts I finished were not great but I am improving.

Looking good! Seems no good deed goes unpunished re: the modifications you had to make to accommodate the planking. Some of the frames sure are fragile and I repaired a few myself.

John, looks like you enjoy a challenge! I too have copied parts of plans or actual parts. Before doing so I would copy an accurate ruler with the copier and compare the copy to the actual ruler. Luckily my machine copied 100% accurately. There is probably a setting on your machine to adjust the copy size. Good luck!

Looking good! I will eagerly follow your build.

Looking great! Mine is on a bit of a hold now as I have a couple of non-hobby related issues to deal with at present🤥

An another welcome from suburban Chicagoland!

Following your build with interest. Since the Admiral passed away 5 years ago it does get lonely but it is nice to have a hobby room and my dog doesn't seem to mind the dust or mess. Certainly not a substitute for my wife but I try to find a bit of happiness where I can.

Looking very nice! I will be following your progress as I am working on the same model now.

I found that scraping it with a hobby knife or cabinet scraper has worked well for me. If it is a part to be glued after scraping pulling a fine razor saw blade pulled perpendicular to the surface creates fine grooves and seems to promote better adhesion,120 grit sand paper also does a good job I have never encountered any problem with painting as long as most of the char is removed. One thing I have noticed is that the laser cut edge is usually not square and and a bit of scraping or sanding may be needed to correct this. Post #2 in this thread discusses that issue.

Time for an update on my snail's pace progress. I complete installing all the frames up to the point that the keelson attaches going up to the stern and thought it a good time to install the keelson. I checked all the frames prior to installing the keelson and found one seriously out of alignment, it was the one frame I experimented driving a brass pin through the frame and into the keel as I was rather concerned with the tenuous connection between the frame halves and the keel. The pin wandered off path and pulled the frame seriously out of alignment. I managed to remove and reset the frame without serious damage. I still suspect some shimming may be in my future for other areas. I test fitted the keelson and it was like a rocking horse, no doubt to my my improper sanding rather than a design defect. All frames were set to the proper height per the plans but the error was due to my improper finishing of the landing area for the keelson. At that point modifying the landing area on the frames was near impossible so I modified the keelson as seen in the photos by removing material as needed. I established the correct attachment level fore and aft for the the keelson and removed material as needed on the keelson to ensure a tight fit on the frames, seemed to work well. I used one hour setting epoxy to attach the keelson as I had no doubt I could not work fast enough using the 5 minute variety. I applied the adhesive to each frame/keelson juncture and also to the forward end of the keelson and used a brass pin at the aft end to secure it in addition to the epoxy. I used rubber bands in the middle to apply pressure. This was my first time using 1 hour epoxy and I was sure I had mixed it improperly while waiting for it to cure, I put it out in the hot sun and it cured rock hard! I am amazed how it made the structure so much more rigid and stable! A couple of observations: this is my first POF build and I find it a quantum leap more challenging than my 2 previous builds! It teaches the importance of attention to detail! It is completely enjoyable and sure gives me the greatest admiration for the members who scratch build POF models!!!!

Great job, looks wonderful! This was my first build and and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Looking forward to watching your progress!