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yvesvidal
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Everything posted by yvesvidal
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Chuck, where are you moving? Are you getting a house with more utility space for your business? Yves -
You really have to sand the ribs as much as possible, before inserting them in the building jig. Multiple reasons for that: Fairing internally and externally must be done ahead of time, because the internal planking will be glued when the hull is inside the jig. For the frames to be extracted from the jig, they must be slightly smaller/less thick and well polished/sanded so that they can slide out without breaking. I noticed that oiling and waxing them before gluing them, helps tremendously. I still suspect that extracting the spine and frames from the jig is going to be nerve wracking. I think I will insert some kind of crowbar from below and push up the keel very gently. Right now, with about 30 frames in, it is still possible to move it a tad. Finally, the hull is not planked on the outside, with the exception of a plank or two. The goal is to show the skeleton of the ship. I need to check with Tom, when is the ideal and safest step to take the hull out of the jig. This is not clear in the instructions. Yves
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I am now working on Frames #20 to #29. Most frames are made of 5 parts and the instructions below, explain what has to take place: When building the frames, one has to always keep in mind which way they are fitting on the keel, before fairing them. Easier said than done. Yves
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Interesting project. Please, make sure you post figures of your 3D design and perhaps think of how this can be turned into a virtual kit for 3D printing enthusiasts. You have made some very serious 3D models in the past and there may be a few aficionados that would love to build your kits. I know I like these dreadnoughts that you built in the past. Yves
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Costa Passenger Coach by yvesvidal - OcCre - 1/32
yvesvidal replied to yvesvidal's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I am trying to finish the underside of the coach: Another couple of parts missing from the OCCRE kit: the straight cables/bars, as you can see below. I replaced them with 2 mm brass wire, but that is forcing me to paint them, instead of being able to keep the metal shine. This is the third part missing from this kit, all in the cast metal section..... Not good for Occre. Installing the steps: Alright, we are getting close to the end. I have the trucks and couplers to complete... Yves
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I just completed frames #50 to #41. The ship is now equipped with all the "easy" frames. My faithful and precious Dremel: priceless to remove all the charring on the parts: #30 to #50 completed and glued in place, against the inner keel: The center of the ship: No more than 66 frames to go.... Yves
- 175 replies
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You are definitely pimping up on the original Model Shipways kit. You are actually doing what they should have done to start with. Yves
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The tedious and repetitive assembly of the frames has started. I have decided to populate first, the "easy" frames located in the middle of the hull. These do not require any fairing, for the most part and are composed of only three parts. Bow and stern will be kept for the end as they are significantly more advanced and delicate. Frames #30 to #40 are now completed and ....glued to the keel: The next series will be #41 to #50. I have started using a DREMEL equipped with a round abrasive head, after loosing a good chunk of skin on my fingers....due to sand paper abrasion. It really helps. Yves
- 175 replies
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Time to start a new thread for the Aston !!! Yves
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Major point of no-return.... The bow assembly has been glued to the keel: When reaching that stage, the only thing left is to place the keel/bow assembly in the cradle and start assembling the numerous frames: At this stage, pulling out the keel is still very easy. Once the frames are installed and glued to the keel, it will be another story.... Yves
- 175 replies
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Did you use real dirt, clay ? Super realistic. Yves
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This past weekend I worked on the bow and got very confused at the beginning. The instructions are showing this: I tried the assembly C1-C5 in all directions but it would not fit in the cradle or on the keel. Then I started looking into the Monograph and CAF plans: And it made much more sense. C1-C5 is just a jig and is not part of the ship. As a matter of fact, that jig is useless and if you glue carefully Frames A to H and 01, on top of each other, following carefully the laser marks, you end up with a very good result: Below, you can see the assembly with the jig inserted underneath: A lot (and I say a LOT) of sanding is required to come up with a decent shape that fits tightly in the keel and slide into the cradle accordingly. I like the slight separation of the frames, as it brings more depth and realism to the model. Most bows I have seen on the Internet look like a big block of wood perfectly shaped, which would not have been like the real ship. Inside fairing was also done to a certain extent: Yves
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Very true. I have not done any "detailed" fairing yet. Yes, there will be a lot of sanding required on that kit. If you do not like sanding and adjusting, then this is not a kit for you 🙂 Yves
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I would add a drop or two of acrylic resin in the pools, for realism. Your model looks incredible for such a small scale. Yves
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- Queen Mary 2
- Revell
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Frames are 3 mm thick and from 5 to 6 mm wide, depending of their positions in the hull. CAF is a Chinese company and as such uses the metric system. Yves
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I have completed (more or less) the eight frames #10 to #80 in increment of 10. These frames will still require some more sanding and fine-tuning to fit perfectly and to allow a smooth fairing of the hull. Each frame is made of at least 3 parts, all the way to 5 and 7 parts in some cases. I have to make sure that the frames slide freely into their respective notches, otherwise it will be impossible when glued, to remove the skeleton from the cradle. Also, all this sanding really hurts the fingers.... I may have to use Dremel in the future. Frame #80 is giving me some problems to sit perfectly in the cradle. We will revisit this issue later on, with the building of the stern. Just another 80 frames to build..... 😞 Yves
- 175 replies
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Beautiful track and very realistic. This module is going to be gorgeous, once you complete the water and place the structures. Yves
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So, the inner keel: it helps strengthen the outer keel and provides a seat for the numerous frames. Bellow are the parts used to build it. Each section is comprised of four layers glued together: Again, the parts are very close to the Monograph. The notches are not spread all along which is not a problem in itself. The seven parts are glued on the outer keel (on a flat table) and left drying for a while. After a little bit of filing, the four frames I built previously, are placed and fit perfectly: Yves
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In fact, it should be the "Beautiful Hen" rather than the Pretty Chicken. Also, in French slang, a "Poule" is a girl !!! Yves
- 62 replies
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- belle poule
- OcCre
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Frames 20, 30, 40 and 50 done: Now, I need to work on the inner keel. Yves
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Yes, I do in "situ", clamp the frames, verification against the plan/Monograph, and back in "situ" for the glue to dry. And yes, 88 frames is a lot to do.... I am going to start with 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 and frames #80. That should give an idea of what the hull looks like. Yves
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These are serious tools. You will be saving a lot of time (and efforts) with these. Yves
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- Norwegian Sailing Pram
- Model Shipways
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Phil, When you "laminated up", what do you mean exactly? I am completely ignorant when it comes to paper models and was wondering what is the exact process. Thank you. Yves
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- Card
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I was curious about how these thin frames will fit in the cradle and decided to build one (the easiest one), #40. There are 88 frames in total. There are multiple way you can build these frames: You can assemble them on the plans, as each frame is clearly depicted in real size. Or you can assemble them in situ, directly inside the cradle. I decided to use Option 2. After removing all the chars (most of it...) from the parts, I glued them in situ: When dry, the frames is finely sanded and oiled: And then placed back in the cradle. The frame does not touch the keel yet, since I have not assembled the inner keel. This is not going to be easy and I will be happy if I do one or two frames per day. The most tedious is of course, removing all the traces of charring. Yves
- 175 replies
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