Jump to content
HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING! ×
2025 NRG PHOTOGRAPHIC SHIP MODEL CONTEST WINNERS ANNOUNCED ×
Ship Modeler's Handbook - Back in Stock ×

yvesvidal

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,580

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by yvesvidal

  1. yvesvidal
    Posting some progress. The hull is almost completely painted. Everyone will have recognized the patterns of the HMCS Snowberry: When painting that large hull, you need to use a lot of paints. The black is an entire Tamiya Flat Black XF-1 can of 23 ml. An entire can of XF-2 white 23 ml went also into painting the white part. Blue is Tamiya Light Blue and green is a mix of XF-2 and XF-5 Green. It is starting to come along and it is nice to display some details on the decks. My problem now is how to create the markings on the Hull: "K166" and the measuring ladders at the stern and bow. Decals is not an option because the surface is not flat enough. Perhaps, masking or pre-cutting with a mask machine (unfortunately I do not own one). I am not feeling good enough to do it with my free hand. Nothing is glued yet. Just resting on the hull. Yves
  2. yvesvidal
    Alright, I have come now to a point where I need to take a decision about the specific Corvette I want to model. As indicated, the kit provides for a Generic Modified Corvette (Long forecastle), designed for Radio Control and navigation. Many Corvettes were built, modified and retro-fitted during their short lives and choices are multiple and varied. I am not going to improvise and will try to stay within the Corvette Classics, for multiple reasons: - The colors - The availability of pictures and plans - The relative "neutrality" of the Builder Country, during WWII - The name and what it evokes. I am sure you all have guessed, what it will be. Yves
  3. yvesvidal
    That is exactly what I did: Once you have the right levelling, I have not touched it since the first printed part. Yves
  4. yvesvidal
    Herman, I suspect that the kit designer did not bother with re-creating a perfect and precise model. His goal was to offer a Radio Controlled Corvette, that would look from a distance, as a decent generic Corvette. Instead, he used welding lines to delineate the various panels on the hull since Corvette used both Rivets and Welding for the hull assembly. I think that sometimes, rivets tend to distract from the overall appearance of a model, and can be over emphasized. A rivet in the scale of 1/48 or 1/72 is not bigger than the tip of a small nail. Yves
  5. yvesvidal
    Way to go Captain Hook !!! Yves
  6. yvesvidal
    Alan, Just in case that may provide you with some info, here are the profiles I am using: Have you tried printing a section of deck? How about HULL #9 T (top) ? Yves
  7. yvesvidal
    Beautiful. On my model, the quality of the printed parts is much more crude and plain. Yves
  8. yvesvidal
    Very interesting chassis. "Modern" pick-up trucks are not that far ahead of that coach.... 😉 Yves
  9. yvesvidal
    Alan, I ran into the same issue. My first download was on WIN 7 and it did not work. After installing it on WIN 10, it went fine. Yves
  10. yvesvidal
    Wonderful Alan, I think you are now on good tracks. Do not touch the leveling wheels anymore, if you are happy with their settings. Consumption: - One spool gave me sections 1,2,3,7,8,9B and 9T. - Another spool gave me sections 4,5,6 - There was some spare on both. - I think the kit can be entirely printed with 3 spools ($69). You may need a little extra for the brims and it is not even sure. Yves
  11. yvesvidal
    Great sewing skills. Yves
  12. yvesvidal
    Andreas, I am really sorry to hear about your disappointment with this kit. I hope you will find the strength and motivation to resurrect it. I am also concerned by the quality as you are describing it, as I wanted to procure two of their kits that I find absolutely magnificent: The Bellona (1/48) and the Chebec (1/48). The first one is plank on bulkheads (traditional), whereas the second one if POF. After reading your comments, I am not sure I want to spend twice $1200-1400 for these kits. This is really disappointing and I hope the CAF support group is able to do something for you. Yves
  13. yvesvidal
    A bird's eye view of the decks system: Yves
  14. yvesvidal
    All the decks are fitting perfectly, where I want them to be, and this is what it takes in terms of styrene strips to get to the expected results: With this "calibration", the transition from planked wood decks and metal decks is smooth and nobody will stumble, during some action. Yves
  15. yvesvidal
    A little change of pace with some wood planking. It is always nice to go back to the softness and smoothness of basswood wood. The planking is done with Model Shipways 1/32 x 1/8 strips, carefully cut and fit around the bow breaker. The second deck (Deck #B) is painted with Tamiya Dark Grey. The "wave shield" is painted with Tamiya Flat White with 60 drops of light gray and 20 drops of IJN gray. Strange recipe, but I like it.... From the color of the breakwater, one can derive easily which Corvette I will be trying to model.... Yves
  16. yvesvidal
    Alan, I had no software issues importing whichever file. Note that I am using the CURA program that came with the Creality machine, not the base CURA that you can download for free: Not sure if it makes any differences. Also, the Profile is set for ENDER-3, but I am sure you have that already. Yves
  17. yvesvidal
    Alan, I am pleased to see that you started this Build Log and went full ahead with the building of this 3D printed model. I am also sad that you ran into so many frustrations with this printer. My first attempt was with the QIDI IMate S printer which was a pure disaster at $500. It printed for exactly 1 hour and 30 minutes and stopped forever, feeding the filament. This unit was quickly returned to Amazon and I went with the Creality Ender-3 V2. After the initial debacle (QIDI), the little Ender-3 was a breath of fresh air. I suspect, I may have been lucky as I have not touched the levelling since day one. Have you tried printing a piece of deck? That should stick very well to your bed. Yves
  18. yvesvidal
    Super skeleton. Great job. Yves
  19. yvesvidal
    Very nice results. One done, 8 more to go ..... 🙂 Yves
  20. yvesvidal
    This is incredible. This diorama is going to be huge. Yves
  21. yvesvidal
    Impressive of details. Beautifully made. Yves
  22. yvesvidal
    Alan, Please, do the following: 1-To prevent the spaghetti ball, I would look at the leveling of the glass bed. Again, use the small flyer (with a QR code printed on it) provided in the plastic bag with the documentation. Do that on all four corners, and make sure that there is a slight resistance when pulling on the sheet of paper. Once happy, go around all four corners one more time. And do it a third time.... 2-Clean your glass bed with isopropyl alcohol. There may be finger grease on it and that will prevent adhesion of the PLA. 3-Make sure the bed is at 60 degrees and the nozzle at 200 C. 4-Use good quality and new filament. I am happy with Overture and the spool costs $23 from Amazon. 5-Unwind the spool slightly to help with the feeding of the PLA filament. During a long print, you may want to monitor the spool and make sure that the filament comes out freely, by spinning and unwinding the filament from time to time. 6-Watch Just-Vlad video again on how to set up your printer. 7-Wait for the parts to cool down before attempting to remove it from the glass bed. In my case, large parts (i.e. decks) are so stuck, I just cannot remove them until it is perfectly cold. Once you get the leveling right, there won't be any spaghetti balls. Also, for large parts. make sure you remove the cleaning track/string (on the left side) by pulling the string from the back of the printer, before it starts printing. You have to be quick but it helps. Good luck. Yves
  23. yvesvidal
    You are resourceful when it comes to build parts.... I like the funnels made with wood sticks. Yves
  24. yvesvidal
    Beautiful Syren in the background. Yves
  25. yvesvidal
    More progress on the decks: I still have to raise and position Decks C, D-E (now glued together) in the hull. Deck F is the vertical wall of the engine room. The goal is to have a perfect fit for each of these decks, and be able to work on them as separate module, paint them independently and minimize the masking of such a large model. Then it will be time to pull out the airbrush, with the large nozzle.... Yves

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...