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Jim Lad

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Everything posted by Jim Lad

  1. Marc, That's really interesting. Can you let us know just where Longridge describes this? I've had a look through his book and the only illustration I have of a square bumpkin is the fore brace bumpkin. On page 177 of my edition he describes the lower studding sails as, "A large quadrilateral sail with four right angle corners." Looking forward to your advise. John
  2. Progress is right, Alexandru! Yoy're going ahead in leaps and bounds! John
  3. Devilishly clever, these Admirals! John
  4. But just think of the drawing practice you've had, Bob. John
  5. She's looking first class, Augie. I bet those spiders are champing at the bit to get back to her. John
  6. As per Lees - cable laid, anti clockwise; shroud laid, clockwise - oh, and if the rigging is wire, don't cross the shrouds at the deadeye. Apart from that, make them look neat and no one will know what you've done anyway! John
  7. You seem to be doing very well with the two hands you've got, Remco! John
  8. Frankie, That slack line may be the tack of the mainsail. I think your "cylinder sticking out sideways" is probably a crank operated hand winch. John
  9. Hmmm, an interesting concept, Michael. That could look good. John
  10. Excellent 'workshop', Darren. Did you show us this on the old forum? I seem to remember something like this then and thinking it was a good idea. John
  11. That's a really tricky one, Michael.. Does anything happen to the colour if you heat the wire? John
  12. Yes, Definitely a four master, Kester, but I don't think she's in the process of doing anything much at the moment, with three of the watch having a yarn and another with time to take a photo! Maybe the braces are where they are because the mat'es going to 'sweat them up' at the end of the watch? John PS. That photo's a nice find Frankie - a rare clear photo of the main deck.
  13. Chris, I somehow missed your return after the birth of your family. Good to see her progressing again, mate! John
  14. Yeah, Michael, but you take it a bit to extremes! John
  15. Meredith, If you've got the space, I'd go for a really grand 1:48 scale model - it's a great scale to work at - you can pretty much show every nut and bolt if you want to! John
  16. Mate, that's almost like asking, "How long is a piece of string?" The diameter of the derrick will depend on its safe working load (SWL), length and the thickness of the steel used in its construction. For an average sort of cargo derrick of 5 ton SWL, a diameter of 8 or 9 inches won't be too far out. John
  17. Bob, The plans are currently at the museum, but if I remember correctly, she was 66 feet between perpendiculars. More updates in a few days! John
  18. Under weigh, Mario. It'll be good to see lots of pictures so we can see just how this type of construction works. John
  19. You may even get away with soft soldering if you don't have facilities to silver solder. As there'll be no weight on the rowlocks thaey should be OK so long as you drill through the strip part to solder the wire. John
  20. Crikey, Mobbsie, you've really made progress on her. She's looking really good! John
  21. Yep, anything heavy could be moved using a combination of stay and yardarm tackles! John
  22. That's an easy one to answer, Chuck - expertly! John
  23. Dave, I'm not sure just how large a hawser laid rope can be - when I was at sea we used to use 10 inch mooring lines that were hawser laid (just don't be in the way if one breaks under strain). Cable laid rope was indeed made by laying up three hawser laid ropes, which is why it was laid up left handed. The lower stays and shrouds of hemp rigged vessels were commonly (but not universally) of cable laid rope, and so left handed. On small ships the lower rigging was sometimes hawser laid. I'm speaking here of English 19th century practice, by the way. John
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