dvm27

As a fan of the real ship I'm enjoying your build tremendously. Nice ships saw you've purchased. I have had the Proxon planer for at least 15 years and it is one of my favorite tools. Changing the blades, however, is a nightmare and the company could not find a US dealer who would do it.

I think those markings on the rotary table are laser engraved, Kevin. I've had my rotary table for almost twenty years and it still looks new. Have you tried contacting them for a solution? They are very responsive and once repaired my lathe for a minimal fee as well as replacing numerous old parts without charging me. As for those square holes you need to fix I could envision using your smaller mill end and making a very small second cut a half a degree away or so. You only see the outside opening so the inside shape really doesn't matter. Enjoy New York in the dead of winter. Don't you live in a tropical paradise? Are you one of those lunatics that wait in Times Square for New Years?

I stand corrected Chuck. That's as neat a splice as I can make with cotton rope and PVA. Do you fray or tease the end at all before gluing? One other CA glue advantage in rigging is the speed at which you can work. A dilute PVA splice takes about 15 minutes before I'm comfortable applying pressure to it. A CA splice can be used immediately. But one advantage to a PVC knot or splice is that it can be dissolved in a bit of alcohol and the end of the rope can be reused. This is convenient if, for example, a lanyard has to be tensioned later on. I suspect a CA splice is forever?

Excellent discussion on using CA for wooden parts. Now let's talk about CA for rigging. I am currently rigging a commissioned model which specifies that no CA is to be used. I love the Syren rope made by Chuck but polyester ropes cannot be secured with PVA (diluted white glue) so CA must be used. Thus, on this model I am using cotton ropes from Ropes of Scale in Canada. It is also excellent rope and binds readily with PVA (although much slower). Below are some random observations on PVA vs CA in rigging based on my experience. I have a rigged model of Hannah made in the 1990's with rope splices secured by CA and no lines have broken. The joints do feel a bit brittle though. Some have a white residue but this is an early CA version. I have had no issues since switching to Bob Smith's CA medium viscosity). Faux splices can appear a bit clunky with CA. Faux PVA splices, however, are very natural in appearance and quite strong (see The Fully Framed Model, Volume 4, David Antscherl). Europeans have been using CA quite generously on their hulls and rigging for many years so, obviously, this is widely accepted practice as they have many European competitions. Some of the finest ship models are made in Europe and almost every country has their own version of Model Ship World. With auto translate you can see these masterpieces. Due to the current tariff wars the rope I am purchasing from Canada is much more expensive (35% duties). Perhaps this will change in the near future. I should also mention that Ropes of Scale also sells polyester rigging. Finally, if you Google AI on this matter the clear winner for rigging ship models is polyester. See below: " For ship models, polyester is superior for longevity over cotton due to its high resistance to fading, mildew, moisture (doesn't weaken when wet), shrinking, and abrasion, making it ideal for sails and rigging that need to hold shape and color long-term, while cotton is softer but fades, weakens when damp, and attracts mildew, though it offers a natural look. Polyester: The Durable Choice UV & Color: Excellent colorfastness; resists fading from sunlight. Moisture: Hydrophobic (doesn't absorb much water) and dries quickly, preventing rot and mildew. Strength: High tensile strength and abrasion resistance. Shape: Resists shrinking, stretching, and wrinkles. Best For: Sails, rigging, and any part needing robust, long-lasting performance, especially in damp environments. Cotton: The Natural (But Weaker) Choice UV & Color: Prone to fading and noticeable color loss over time. Moisture: Absorbs water, loses strength when wet, and can rot or mildew. Strength: Lower abrasion resistance than polyester. Shape: Can shrink and wrinkle. Best For: A more traditional, natural look where longevity isn't the top priority, or for indoor-only models. Conclusion for Ship Models Choose polyester for maximum durability and realism over decades, as it mimics sailcloth's performance in weather. Use cotton for a softer, classic look, but be prepared for potential fading, weakening, and mildew if exposed to moisture or strong light over time.

Rigging is like a chess match. You need to think 2 or 3 moves ahead. At full size, many of these rigging tasks are easy as humans can actually move nimbly around the rigging. At our scales, fingers are not nearly as nimble getting into these tiny spaces. On my current fully rigged three masted ship of war I am trying to pre-rig all the collars, blocks etc. that I can, but I'm sure I'll forget some. Adding sails almost doubles the amount of lines so your degree of difficulty is even higher. Some highly motivated modelers actually work out every line, its standing portion and falls before rigging in a neat little book. But that ain't me. Great job so far Jason!

You did a masterful job blending those two molded rails below the hance, Siggi. I'll have to look back in your log to see how you did it as there must be a joint somewhere near the volute central portion.

Looking good, Kevin. I also use the four jaw chuck to hold square stock. Theoretically, it should be dialed in with an indicator but I believe that's more for precision work in metal. Sometimes I need to move the part to the mill then back to the lathe. In order to get the centering correct again make a small tick mark on one of the jaws of the chuck and the wood indentation adjacent to it. That way you'll get the same centering after transferring the piece back to the lathe.

Is that a publication cover above? It's not part of the Modeles Historiques series.

Lovely work, Igor. I look forward to seeing how you make them appear wooden.

Your mast coat looks very realistic Siggi. Always enjoy your updates!

Holly takes up Fiebings dye beautifully and buffs to a nice matte finish. But I do treat it like it's radioactive as one errant drop will be a permanent feature of your model. I do touch ups on the model but always try to apply it before gluing it in place though.

Great video Kevin. You'll note that some of the eyes for the gun tackle are located within the hanging knees, both next to the ports and cast. Look at the 3D photo you've included. As I recall I fitted the deck beams temporarily then added the hanging knees. This helped locate the iron rings. You can then remove the deck beams, rig the cannons then install the deck beams permanently. Also, it's good to know I'm not the only one who has to constantly reinvent certain techniques. Fortunately, I had an extensive photo log so that has helped me remember previous techniques.

Welcome to this site Andreas! I look forward to another beautiful build from you. I loved your Fly build! For those who don't speak German you can right click the screen and there is a "translate" feature that works very well (at least in Chrome).

Also, for some people it is all about the building process while, for others, it is about completing as many ship models as possible during our short time here. Both approaches are equally valid and everyone gets to follow whatever path they choose.

I hadn't noted those oxagonal (?) mast coats previously. They look amazing are are faithful to the prototype model.