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dvm27

NRG Member
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About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

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  1. Lovely work Erik. Those tricky lower bibb details are especially well done
  2. They must think you are building an important model to be so accomodating. I agree that there must have been sheaves in those slots to redirect the rope or the chaffing would result in frequent replacement. I'm betting that the builder of this model had rigging fatigue at this point and probably just wanted to be finished. He never counted on a Johann to scrutinize is work centuries later!
  3. This is an area that is so often done wrong when re-creating these warships. I don't really understand all the geometry but intuitively your version just looks right. The eye truly is the best judge here.
  4. Well Bill, if leaving them overlong "kind of makes you ill" then you really have no choice but to modify them (assuming your sources are correct). It should be fairly easy to scan the sails and reduce them in size proportionally. Or you could just leave them as is and noone else would be the wiser (except you). But if you plan on making more model ships you should get in the habit of correcting inaccuracies whenever possible. It's an important step in becoming a semi or scratch builder. Loved our annual visits to Baguio in the 1970's during university breaks!
  5. Thank you Denis for taking this amazing journey with us. You've managed to bring our 3D model to life and helped many Swan class modelers along the way. Best of luck on your future modeling.
  6. That is a gorgeous ship model, Ben. Did you give any thought to adding stump masts? I look forward to your new work of your Swan model in the upcoming year(s). Greg
  7. My advice would be to remove the bulk of the material prior to mounting on the keel. But, as Druxey points out, you need to be super careful not to exceed the frame margins fore or aft. Thus, I leave 1/16" material proud of the bevel lines. Doing this on the table sander is perhaps not ideal. The reason is that the bevel is constantly changing from extreme to narrow as you go up the frame. If you're going to build many models you may wish to invest in an oscillating spindle sander, It is fantastic for outside and inside curves and for bevel work as well. You control the angle of the bevel, not the machine. with a little practice you can bevel very precisely and in very tight areas. As an alternate, consider using a Dremel rotary tool with their different sanding sleaves. You can remove the bulk with their 80 grit and progress to 180 as you approach the bevel lines.
  8. Fantastic video Giampiero! Silver solder will not work if gaps are present. Is this the same for resistance soldering?
  9. Very sorry for your loss, Rusty. I'll always remember Callie, my beloved Golden, leaving my workshop in the evenings covered in a fine layer of sawdust. Used to drive my wife nuts! I'd imagine many of us are at an age where we ponder if our next pet would actually outlive us?
  10. I believe that is a very workable solution Johann. It is, of course, preferable to use the contemporary model as a primary source but I think sometimes we take these models as gospel. It is possible that the original builder made errors, took time saving shortcuts or omitted details because of any reason you could think of that is just as relevant to us modern builders. Perhaps, being near the end of the rigging process he just wanted to be done and chose this quick and easy method to end the line. I do know that, in 150 years, someone making a model of your model will have the most complete and well researched Creole model ever built.
  11. Perhaps one could extrapolate from homes of wealthy people of that era? I believe that many contemporary mansions have been well documented and restored to their original colors based on paint samples.
  12. Brilliant work, Chuck! I love how you "blacked out" the underside of the deck. Your New Jersey club is one of the luckiest around with you as a Captain. What scale is the sectional model? The faux metal work looks like the real deal. I'm betting this sectional model will show up in your store at some point as who wouldn't want to make one as a fun side product?
  13. That is one cool model. I'm thinking of building one for my Grandson. He has just started on a path for commercial aviation and he would go crazy for this. Unfortunately, it may have the opposite effect on his parents!
  14. I just discovered your log Ian. Congratulations on building such a beautiful hull. Your take on the style, fully planked on one side, makes it unique as well. I look forward to future updates!
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