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dvm27

NRG Member
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About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

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  1. Good observation! You actually cut your rigging by about 50% by not including sails.
  2. Those are fantastic upgrades Jason. The appearance of the rigging is greatly enhanced by the upgrade in blocks. For the fuzz, try flicking a Bic lighter over them very them briefly. The fuzz will quickly melt away. Do some practice ones off the model first though. After a while you'll get comfortable enough to do this on the model.
  3. If I'd taken the time to blog in addition to building the prototype Swan class model I'd still be building her! Not only have Kevin's modeling skills improved dramatically but his video work has progressed from amateur to pro.
  4. Good luck with those wales Alan. Oddly, I've seen models where these joints were so well done that, after staining or painting, they were no longer visible. Their solution was to lightly chamfer the outer edges
  5. Congratulations on the completion of yet another fine build, B.E. A very clever presentation as well, saving you a lot of vertical space!
  6. When in doubt, do it over. Took me three times to get my hawse timbers to where I was happy with them. But each version went quicker. Having ruined a prior model with an electric sander I stopped using it. 80 grit paper will keep you from getting into trouble.
  7. For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.
  8. That model inspired me as well Chuck. I look forward to your take on furling sails. Are you going to add that cutter? I believe I'm going to retrofit one after my current project is over. It's sitting on a couple spare topmasts I believe.
  9. Tenoning those transom timbers into the fashion pieces and aft cants requires a tremendous amount of skill. Hats off to both designer and builder here!
  10. Lovely capstan Chuck. Personally, I'd go for the red. The natural color ghosts out against the background. The red would pop like the other fittings along the centerline of the ship.
  11. I have no dust collection system either Shawn so I typically do my fairing ourdoors. Obviously not ideal for your Nebraska winters but anything above 50 degrees was fine with me. If you're using cedar I think 40 grit is a bit aggressive and I'd start with 80. Repeatedly applying pencil marks to the frames will show you the low spots. Ultimately, the sound of the fine paper (220 grit) and running your hands over the surface will tell you when you are done. Start by fairing the midships frames then proceed to the fore and aft frames. If one frame still has pencil marks while those fore and aft of it are faired then re-evaluate the frame. If it was installed with an inward cant then all the other frames could be affected. In my Speedwell model I had to replace a fore frame for this reason during the fairing process.
  12. That's fifteen years well spent Alessio! Welcome aboard and I look forward to future updates.
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