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About dvm27

- Birthday 04/05/1954
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Gender
Male
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Location
Baltimore, MD
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Interests
17th and 18th century naval architecture
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dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 - 2025
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dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 - 2025
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dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Flying Fish by Jared - Model Shipways - 1:96
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dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Portland 1770 by scrubbyj427 - 1:48 - 4th rate 50-gun ship
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dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Portland 1770 by Trussben - Portland Scale Ship Co. - 1:48 - 50 gun 4th rate
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dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Frank Wouts 1/48
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dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Gold solder for brass
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dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Portland 1770 by Trussben - Portland Scale Ship Co. - 1:48 - 50 gun 4th rate
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dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
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dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Portland 1770 by Trussben - Portland Scale Ship Co. - 1:48 - 50 gun 4th rate
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Archi reacted to a post in a topic: La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 - 2025
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BradNSW reacted to a post in a topic: La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 - 2025
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BradNSW reacted to a post in a topic: L'Invention 1799 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:48
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J11 reacted to a post in a topic: La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 - 2025
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Great job Chris! It looks like those frames should fair in nicely. Your photograph reminds me of the famous Egmont model by John Franklin (Model Shipwright series) in which he assembles, fairs then separates the solid hull and reduces the frames to achieve the Navy Board appearance. His method is not commonly used (except by miniaturists) but seems to have many advantages over the way we currently build them.
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druxey reacted to a post in a topic: La Belle 1684 by Oliver1973 - 1/36
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ancre La Belle 1684 by Oliver1973 - 1/36
dvm27 replied to Oliver1973's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Very nice rudder! I'm always surprised how small the French rudders were compared to English warships of the era. I wonder how much (if any) the steering capabilities were affected? -
It's looking great Clare. I found her sister, Speedwell, very easy to rig. As I recall the Wolf rigging plan provided was very good. As well, you can find excellent rigging instructions in our Speedwell, Vol. 2. She does have a rather nice lofty rig so your display space will need to double perhaps.
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I think silk rigging looks beautiful and I know many of the Navy Board models were rigged this way. I have also seen silken robes from previous centuries and they look fine (perhaps because they are preserved in a museum). But I now read that while silk can survive decades they start to deteriorate through a process called "shattering" (the short cross threads become unwoven) at around 60 years. Perhaps this appears in garments only and not laid up rope? But I am fairly certain that no restorer in 2300 will be able to replicate Johann's magnificent work here if the rigging starts to deteriorate.
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What a delight it was for David Antscherl and myself to stumble upon this model after the NE Ship Modelers Conference. I have his books but the model in person is even more impressive. I wonder what Ed is up to now?
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Nice video on blackening Kevin. Some random thoughts - I use either alcohol or acetone as a degreaser. Also, keep in mind that brass is an alloy and, depending on the composition, some brass is much more difficult to blacken. For large groups of pieces I find that pickling first makes a difference in the blackening and uniformity of the finish. For small pieces you can use a paint brush to polish them in a deep tupperware piece so they don't fly away. Polishing prevents the finish from transfering to surrounding pieces and evens out the finish. Finally, while it's easier to blacken the Swan PE sheet whole don't you find that you still have to blacken the cut edges after removal from the sheet?
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Here's a jig that can be made out of heavy card or aircraft ply. It's not my design but solves the spacing problem between the deadeyes.
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These belaying pins are fabulous! The 1/4" ones are perfectly proportioned and fit a #66 hole. Note - most commercially available belaying pins have very fat handles. Chuck has just saved me hours of work. And adding thimbles to his store would be equally amazing as the commercially made brass ones are no longer available (Crafty Sailor).
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