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dvm27

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About dvm27

  • Birthday 04/05/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baltimore, MD
  • Interests
    17th and 18th century naval architecture

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  1.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Yet Another Pandora 3D build
  2.    Nirvana reacted to a post in a topic: Yet Another Pandora 3D build
  3.    herask reacted to a post in a topic: Yet Another Pandora 3D build
  4.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Yet Another Pandora 3D build
  5.    druxey reacted to a post in a topic: La Renommee 1744 1/48 2025
  6. dvm27
    I look forward to your new build, Chris. Had to laugh at your "smaller scale of 1:48" comment. I'm currently rigging a French warship of that era and the masts and spars are massive! Boudriot's rigging plans are superb though.
  7.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Yet Another Pandora 3D build
  8.    druxey reacted to a post in a topic: Yet Another Pandora 3D build
  9. dvm27
    Lovely work, Denis. Do you have a copy of "Building the Wooden Fighting Ship" by james Dodds & James Moore? It gives some very detailed illustrations about the workings of the shipyard at each phase of the constuction
  10.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Brig Le FAVORI 1806 by KORTES - 1:55
  11.    daHeld73 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
  12.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Buying Filler Blocks
  13.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Brig Le FAVORI 1806 by KORTES - 1:55
  14.    herask reacted to a post in a topic: Yet Another Pandora 3D build
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  16.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Yet Another Pandora 3D build
  17. dvm27 started following Yet Another Pandora 3D build
  18. dvm27
    What a treat to find this Denis! Very much looking forward to this build. Pandora is a great choice and the Anatomy series, though not always 100% accurate, should give you lots of details. Any way you could insert Pegasus into the building slip?
  19.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Yet Another Pandora 3D build
  20.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Yet Another Pandora 3D build
  21.    daHeld73 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
  22.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: TRE KRONER 1742 by Beckmann - 3"/8' scale - Transom-Model
  23.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
  24.    billocrates reacted to a post in a topic: HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
  25. dvm27
    I have no doubt that your figurehead will be magnificent Giampiero. I do fear that that extended right leg will be amputated over time though. Perhaps that's why when horses rear up both fore legs usually are pulled in (see David Antscherl's pegasus below).
  26. dvm27
    A great tip from Druxey I learned is to tie every fifth ratline first. This insures proper spacing and non-pinching of the shroud lines. Then add every third ratline. Finaly, fill in the rest. This technique has the added advantage of seeming to be faster then the Sisyphean task of filling in from the bottom up.
  27. dvm27
    I can offer no help in this area Mark but isn't it humbling to know that some craftsman, over 250 years ago and under candle light, was able to form this precision detail with likely nothing more than a fretsaw and files?
  28. dvm27
    Great to have you back Remco. My holly from that era has also toned down to resemble the boxwood. I imagine at some point you will touch up those wales. I would encourage newcomers to this log to check out remco's earlier work. It's amongst the best you'll find on this forum.
  29. dvm27
    Lovely work Erik. Those tricky lower bibb details are especially well done
  30. dvm27
    They must think you are building an important model to be so accomodating. I agree that there must have been sheaves in those slots to redirect the rope or the chaffing would result in frequent replacement. I'm betting that the builder of this model had rigging fatigue at this point and probably just wanted to be finished. He never counted on a Johann to scrutinize is work centuries later!
  31. dvm27
    Lovely work Valeriy. May I ask where your splendid models end up? Museums?
  32. dvm27
    This is an area that is so often done wrong when re-creating these warships. I don't really understand all the geometry but intuitively your version just looks right. The eye truly is the best judge here.
  33. dvm27
    Well Bill, if leaving them overlong "kind of makes you ill" then you really have no choice but to modify them (assuming your sources are correct). It should be fairly easy to scan the sails and reduce them in size proportionally. Or you could just leave them as is and noone else would be the wiser (except you). But if you plan on making more model ships you should get in the habit of correcting inaccuracies whenever possible. It's an important step in becoming a semi or scratch builder. Loved our annual visits to Baguio in the 1970's during university breaks!
  34. dvm27
    Thank you Denis for taking this amazing journey with us. You've managed to bring our 3D model to life and helped many Swan class modelers along the way. Best of luck on your future modeling.
  35. dvm27
    That is a gorgeous ship model, Ben. Did you give any thought to adding stump masts? I look forward to your new work of your Swan model in the upcoming year(s). Greg
  36. dvm27
    My advice would be to remove the bulk of the material prior to mounting on the keel. But, as Druxey points out, you need to be super careful not to exceed the frame margins fore or aft. Thus, I leave 1/16" material proud of the bevel lines. Doing this on the table sander is perhaps not ideal. The reason is that the bevel is constantly changing from extreme to narrow as you go up the frame. If you're going to build many models you may wish to invest in an oscillating spindle sander, It is fantastic for outside and inside curves and for bevel work as well. You control the angle of the bevel, not the machine. with a little practice you can bevel very precisely and in very tight areas. As an alternate, consider using a Dremel rotary tool with their different sanding sleaves. You can remove the bulk with their 80 grit and progress to 180 as you approach the bevel lines.

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