dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Do they still have that magnificent model of he Royal George on display? -
Visually it is the run of the sweep and port openings that make or break the hull and your template shows you are right on the money. I look forward to seeing how those difficult cant frames blend into your system. Were you going to add fillers between the keel and bottom floor sweep? I found that expansion and contraction of the hull was constantly fighting me on this.
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Wonderful ropework, Monsieur. Are those real splices on the stropped blocks?
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- le gros ventre
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Well that carving is certainly matches the quality of your work. Congratulations on owning an original Antscherl piece of art!
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Druxey is, as always, correct. Visually I found the angle looked a bit jarring on my cross section so made it just slightly off parallel to the keel.
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While I tend to build in a highly stylized manner I can certainly appreciate that your model probably comes closer to the actual ships appearance than any other model on this site. Truly inspirational!
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What works for me in these situations is to tack the two delicate pieces together or tack the assembly to a ply base using pinpoint drops of yellow glue. It only takes a couple of minute drops to tack the pieces together (like tack welding) and they are easily separated with isopropyl alcohol when finished.
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After all that tedious planking now you're getting to the fun stuff!
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Yes patience is key here...but dedication to excellence is equally required to achieve results such as these!
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- winchelsea
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
dvm27 replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Well done Stuglo! We watched your skill and confidence grow during the construction of this model and the result is someone that you should be very proud of. Look forward to your next build. -
Is this like lost wax casting where the original is destroyed or can you use the original for several castings?
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I have fond memories of making this model over 40 years ago. I believe it is sitting in my son's basement gathering cobwebs.
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I was wondering how you were going to finish those 3D figures in a realistic manner. Using them as masters for the wood colored resin makes perfect sense. 3D printing sure has come a long way. Is this kind of resolution possible on a home printer or is Chris's 3D printer some super commercial brand?
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Nice job Kevin. Preac makes a fence thats1/2" tall. If you can find one it makes cutting mortises a lot easier. Maybe an optical illusion but the first gunport (not the bridle port) looks a bit short.
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Unfortunately, you have "achieved perfection" so you'll just have to keep up that standard! What about adding a 1mm filler strip above the port side clamp? It would be invisible under the waterway.
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Planning ahead is key to success in this type of project. You may also need the quarterdeck and forecastle beams in some locations before fitting out the main deck. You may wish to place a thin piece of rope from the stem to the sternpost (see Chuck's last post) as a site line to make sure your beams are consistently centered. It helps in determining which end of the beam to shave during fitting on the clamp.
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
dvm27 replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
You’re gonna love your spindle sander. Is it oscillating? If not make sure to move the wood all the time so you don’t get burns. With the oscillating spindle sander not only can you do inside curves but inside bevels as well at the same time. Your knuckles will thank you when it becomes time to fair the inside of the hull! -
Beautiful work Ben. Must be fun to go back and forth between the two ships. Do you have plans to rig either/both?
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I also use one continuous sheet of 180 grit paper vs. two individual sheets. I find that with two sheets I can get a line when passing through the center. OF course that's only a problem when the piece to be thicknessed is wider than half of the carrier.
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I would do a rough sanding of the bevels before installing but would wait until they are glued in place before final fairing. There are many variations that may cause errors in precisely mounting frames and, if beveled to their final lines, these are impossible to correct once in place without affecting the shape of the hull.
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Obviously the major advantage to the sled is that you can thickness wood to incredibly thin widths. I use plexiglass for dimensional stability
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Good luck with this amazing model. I am following the Midwest Modelers You Tube build of her and am agog at the number of after market options available for her.
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Nice job on those sheer planks Kevin. I think you will find that shaping and installing the planksheers, especially those short pieces over the hancing pieces, will be one of the more challenging tasks on the model. To that end it is imperative that the sheer/toptimber line be perfectly fair. Consider if you will be shaping the timberheads in situ or off the model. Shaping them in place is extremely difficult so if you decide to make them off the model I would cut the timberheads off now and use a sanding stick athwartships to fair the toptimber line (it looks a bit wavy to my eye). I found that making the timberheads on the Byrnes saw assembly line style was easy and the results were very consistent.
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In my opinion Winchelsea is all about the planking while Speedwell is all about the framing. I think Chuck has developed a system which practically guarantees a beautiful hull form and in this respect may be easier than Winchelsea.
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