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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. HI Chris. After ten years my Proxxon Planer transfers a very small longitudinal line on the wood. I assume one of the blades is nicked. I seem to recall there are two if them and swapping them out was a pain. But I can't be without my planer so I shall order a new set as well. I see they're only $10+ on Amazon.
  2. If you do decide to build the FA you may wish to purchase the book written by Dr. Clay Feldman on his construction of the model: https://www.amazon.com/Eighteenth-Century-American-Plank-Frame/dp/0961502118.
  3. Thanks Kurt. Recently I have been using this paste/flux combo. It is easy to apply through the syringe and flows quickly at very low heat: https://www.beaducation.com/p/3906-jewelry-making-tools-silver-solder-paste-soft-1-4-oz. I think the most important thing I have learned is to slowly warm the entire piece first then focus the flame on the joint. This makes the solder flow towards the joint.
  4. Just to clarify, Kurt, you still need a torch for Stay-Brite solder?
  5. Don't you just hate over-sanding, Keith? One second of inattention leads to a couple hour fix. Very sweet line now.
  6. If you fret the quality of your close up work the rest of us are doomed, Mark!
  7. It is quite difficult do have properly sized mutins as well as consistent pane symmetry across the transom. Not to mention all those changing bevels over the transom. My hat's off to you, Sir!
  8. Your work is seriously lacking...in resolution. Seriously Mark, work of this quality demands higher resolution photographs so we can better appreciate those minute details. Your planking runs are lovely!
  9. I used to think the camouflage scheme was silly and wouldn't fool anyone but your contrasting views of the model set in a sea make a convincing argument for it!
  10. Great video Kevin. Shows the importance of planning one or even two decks ahead to make sure all aligns in the end. Most important is to make sure your coamings, hatches and bitts are properly aligned from top to bottom. The other beams can be fudged a bit if needed to accomodate.
  11. Great photos, Chris! I especially note the lovely run of planking diminishing into the bow (for those following Toni's series on planking), the beautifully worked anchor stock wales and wash cants in particular. Bonus question - what is the small fitting on the port stem just below the cheeks?
  12. That's a beautifully planked hull, Chuck. I almost wonder if trunneling will detract from those lovely lines. Many of the Georgian style models at the academy are not trunneled.
  13. Had you thought of debonding the piece with isopropyl and replacing? Paring that piece back around the curve to a uniform thickness could prove challenging. But then again the new surface would be hidden by the cheeks anyway so perhaps it doesn't have to be perfect.
  14. I purchased the Vandalay duplicator for the Sherline lathe many years ago but had poor success duplicating parts. The link is https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/html/duplicator.html Perhaps you'll have better luck. I know of no others.
  15. Perhaps I missed it in the videos but where did your cannon come from? I assume they were cast.
  16. Another beautiful model on the stocks, Alex. I don't notice a rabbet. Are you planking with veneered stock?
  17. Yes, we are including the detailed plans for our binnacle. Keep in mind that the binnacle is less than an inch in length so those extreme close-up photos magnify every flaw a gazillion times.
  18. The bending was done after cutting the square sides to their final dimension, Mark. Remember that the over-sized square stock was chucked in my four jaw holder with a live center. So essentially I had a round tiller piece emerging from square stock. One of the square faces was then placed against the table saw fence and the opposite face was cut to the outside diameter of the round portion. The piece was rotated 180 degrees and the opposite face cut. This was repeated with the other two faces.
  19. Speedwell is up in Canada receiving her carvings so not too much to report from the shipyard. Her deadeyes are dyed with Fiebings brown stain and a new tiller created. The old one was built up from hollow square tubing and round tubing but I never quite liked the way it looked. So I replaced her. Basically, I started with oversized square stock and turned the round tapered handle on the lathe. I then cut each side of the square stock on my Byrnes table saw with slitting blade until the matched the round stock. The small ball was silver soldered in place and the new tiller blackened. Much improved! To forestall building the masts and spars I decided to build a binnacle. David Antscherl designed a simple version which would be appropriate for the sloop. I built three because...why not. But only one has a compass. I would be happy to give the other two away to anyone who can provide proof they purchased our Speedwell book (a photo on your desk will suffice). Just send me a PM.
  20. Lovely case alexander. I may use the design for my own case if you don't mind.
  21. We had the pleasure of Mitch's presence at several Admiralty Models workshops. In his non-assuming and humorous way he always seemed to be the center of attention. My sincere condolences to his family and friends.
  22. Just catching up after a vacation, Chuck. Great tutorials! One question regarding the tick strip patterns. Is it possible to add a small scale on these? From experience I have learned that downloadable patterns sometimes print out larger or smaller on different printers and this can create problems if the builder doesn't realize this.Also, I encourage each participant to make sure that they are printing at the "actual size" in their printer dialog box. This has solved many problems for me in the past.
  23. Watch this video from Beaducation. Very concise. https://www.beaducation.com/product_videos/65-sparex-pickling-compound
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