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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. Nice recovery, Kevin. I suppose you were blessed/cursed with having the Thorn framing plan. Goes to show you that even thought the Swan vessels were a class within themselves with designated Admiralty specs, their builders still took liberties with regards to their actual construction (most likely based on their own apprenticeship). I'm pretty sure I recall David writing somewhere in TFFM that, in case of discrepencies, the plan for your individual vessel should be the ultimate source. With regard to creeping error you can always cheat an inch or two off either side as you approach the dead flat. You might want to construct the dead flat three-frame-assembly now and temporarily place it to help you figure out how the other frames will fill in. I found this very helpful. Your assistant Ollie is darned cute!
  2. Your choice of ship modeling subjects certainly showcases your extraordinary carving talents, Ivan. I wonder if our readers are aware of the beautiful book published featuring your ship models or you website?
  3. Below are some photos of a Royal Barge, 1823, built by David Antscherl. The techniques of construction are identical to those in his new book The Greenwich Hospital Barge of 1832. The clinker planking and delicate fabric covered awning are what drew me to her. Perhaps this belongs in the completed models section but I have added some construction photos because I thought many readers might be interested in them.
  4. Druxey's Hospital barge is truly a wonder, especially when viewed in person. Its precision, coupled with its small size, makes for a beautiful presentation and heirloom. As someone who owns one of Druxey's barges I can tell you that I gaze at it daily, something I never do with my own models. It is rare for one of Druxey's models to be offered for sale as most are built as commissions. The Hospital barge is available for purchase. Being the subject model on which his new book is based will only increase its value over time. If you are interested please send a PM to Druxey.
  5. Those stamps are beautiful Alex. How did you add the dimples on the positive face? They are perfectly placed. Was this done by CNC?
  6. I agree, Christian. The stern deadwood is more difficult and you have to match starboard and port sides prefectly, especially the positions of the steps. CNC would certainly make this easier!
  7. Outstanding, Christian. Looks like you've left well in excess of 3" on those steps.I can't tell from your photograph but the aft deadwood above the bearding line should taper to 10" at the stern deadwood.See TFFM 1.23.
  8. Great to see your progress, Glen. Ironic that you caught the Norovirus while working on your steamship. I imagine GI problems were a common concern on these vessels given the sanitary facilities. Love that you can design and create parts like the capstan in your workshop. I noticed that the chock mortises on the whelps are on one side only. Not that you see them after the rings are on but can you turn over and align laser cut pieces for a cut on the other side?
  9. Beautifully done, William. It's certainly easier to do this on a flat surface vs. on the model. Are you going to add the balustrades? That should be challenging.
  10. Your approach to the rising wood will help you immeasurably when it comes to raising the frames, Christian. Well done!
  11. Good advice above plus I'd recommmend the Veritas sharpening system with it's guides. For strait edged chisels you're guaranteed a perfect edge.
  12. Clean, precise, unblemished workmanship. You're the total package Albert!
  13. I wish I had your skill and speed, Michael. You should be done the entire project in what...two weeks?
  14. Love the technique Marsalv. I believe you're correct, Gary. He is freehand feeding the piece against the pin. The setup is like a router except upside down.
  15. Thanks for the explanation Marsalv. I assume you are using CNC to do this. I would think it would be quite difficult to freehand this.
  16. I have and use those round nose pliers quite often. You can make incredibly small loops and hooks with it. We had a great local jewelry supply store where I spent many dollars on similar tools over the years. Unfortunately, the elderly owner recently died so all similar purchases must be made over the internet. But the experience is nothing like browsing amongst the thousands of interesting items he carried in his store.
  17. Looking forward to your build, Gary. I encourage you to spend some time thinking about how you wish to display her before starting the project. Options include in frame, partially planked, fully planked or windowed hull. Rigged vs. unrigged. Possibilities are endless. Plan on speding several years on the project. Don't forget that if you don't want to fully frame her due to the difficulty and time constraints you can use the frame patterns to do a plank on bulkhead model. I have seen very few Georgian style Swan class models and I think they are lovely.
  18. I look at MSW every day yet I've managed to miss your beautiful build in progress . Your first scratch build is marvelous, Wes!
  19. Lovely ships boat and case, Bob. Perhaps you could fill a bit of the extra space with contents of the boat such as water casks, spare spars, sails and oars.
  20. Well worth the redo Frank. How would you rate the strength of resistance soldering to silver soldering?
  21. Beautiful job, Lou. The marquetry is exceptional. The continuation of the deck planking aft up the face of the quarterdeck partition looks a bit unusual to me. Were you going to place a strip of molding at the transition? In addition to Doc Blake's exceptional model, perhaps this one from the American Marine Model Gallery will further inspire and provide a few rigging hints: http://www.shipmodel.com/files/fair-american-full-hull-webfair-american003.jpg
  22. Sweet work, Marsalv. I assume you added the molded edge detail with a scraper but I wonder how you got the corners and recesses so precise!
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