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Everything posted by dvm27
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HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
dvm27 replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Clean, precise, unblemished workmanship. You're the total package Albert! -
I wish I had your skill and speed, Michael. You should be done the entire project in what...two weeks?
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- albertic
- ocean liner
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
dvm27 replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Love the technique Marsalv. I believe you're correct, Gary. He is freehand feeding the piece against the pin. The setup is like a router except upside down. -
Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
dvm27 replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Thanks for the explanation Marsalv. I assume you are using CNC to do this. I would think it would be quite difficult to freehand this. -
I have and use those round nose pliers quite often. You can make incredibly small loops and hooks with it. We had a great local jewelry supply store where I spent many dollars on similar tools over the years. Unfortunately, the elderly owner recently died so all similar purchases must be made over the internet. But the experience is nothing like browsing amongst the thousands of interesting items he carried in his store.
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- albertic
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Swan-Class Sloop by garyb - 1:48
dvm27 replied to garyb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looking forward to your build, Gary. I encourage you to spend some time thinking about how you wish to display her before starting the project. Options include in frame, partially planked, fully planked or windowed hull. Rigged vs. unrigged. Possibilities are endless. Plan on speding several years on the project. Don't forget that if you don't want to fully frame her due to the difficulty and time constraints you can use the frame patterns to do a plank on bulkhead model. I have seen very few Georgian style Swan class models and I think they are lovely. -
Lovely ships boat and case, Bob. Perhaps you could fill a bit of the extra space with contents of the boat such as water casks, spare spars, sails and oars.
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- model shipways
- 18th century longboat
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Well worth the redo Frank. How would you rate the strength of resistance soldering to silver soldering?
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- dunbrody
- famine ship
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Beautiful job, Lou. The marquetry is exceptional. The continuation of the deck planking aft up the face of the quarterdeck partition looks a bit unusual to me. Were you going to place a strip of molding at the transition? In addition to Doc Blake's exceptional model, perhaps this one from the American Marine Model Gallery will further inspire and provide a few rigging hints: http://www.shipmodel.com/files/fair-american-full-hull-webfair-american003.jpg
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
dvm27 replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Sweet work, Marsalv. I assume you added the molded edge detail with a scraper but I wonder how you got the corners and recesses so precise! -
Power Tools for a Fully Framed Build
dvm27 replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Does the Delta scroll saw have a tilting table top? I have a Dewalt scroll saw and use this feature quite often. -
I was hugely disappointed to learn that Scale Hardware, manufacturer or precision micro fasteners, washers, etc., is no longer in business. I've been unable to locate another source for items such as 0.5 mm brass washers, rivets and other simulated fasteners. Anyone know of a similar source of these products?
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HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
dvm27 replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Perfect work, Albert. The only thing that would make it even better is higher resolution photos! -
THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
dvm27 replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Amazing work, but it is CGI isn't it?- 194 replies
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Very nice Giampiero! I find it difficult to get the blocks and hooks in the proper proportion...hooks always seem a bit too big.
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I wouldn't worry too much about the timberheads and quarterdeck stanchions at this point, Kevin. I think you will find them much easier to shape off the model then installed later after the various plankshears (rails) are in place. The most important thing to do is to get the toptimber levels correct, with smooth graceful lines. They are also parallel athwartships. This is much easier to do without timberheads and stanchions in the way. Later on, you can form the various plankshears from two sections with slots left to receive each timberhead or stanchion. David illustrates this beautifully in his book.
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Usually I just check the like button but every now and them I have to comment on a particularly nice detail. Well done, Sir!
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- young america
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