glbarlow

I’ll be interested in your opinion on the lathe. I’ve just used my drill to turn wood all these years. I’ve got to learn how to use the mill I just bought before any new toys, I mean tools.  

2 hours ago, Bossman said:

craftsmanship

Thank you!  I’m tryin’ 😊

Willie is a cool looking dude, I like having scaled figures to stand around on my models during construction to get a sense of size.

Enjoying your research on fishing craft and the modifications to Chris' design.  I'm like you, no more large models for me - these small craft are more enjoyable and a lot less repetitious tasks. My head still spins from the 3,000 or more copper plates I put on Vanguard. 

On 6/28/2020 at 6:02 PM, Bungy said:

as I didnt know there was a group doing this model. I will join you all soon.

Not so much a group build as a group of builders enjoying this model challenge.  Looking forward to having you join us and following your work as well.

Cutters are my new favorite thing.  I like your concept and work here and will enjoy seeing your progress, it’s looking great so far.

Thank you Steven!

I think there is a ”wash” that some artists put on sculptures that give them depth, sort of fills in the crevices and curves with a darker shadow. My artist son would know. 
 

However that said, I think they look fine and Dullcote would finish them off great. My opinion is darker isn’t necessary, they look realistic as they are now.

On 6/29/2020 at 8:46 PM, Rustyj said:

I filed the profile into some flat brass stock.

So the brass will cut the profile into the wood, it doesn’t need to be sharpened, or you sharpen it as part of the filing?

Yay!

You're quite handy at doing it - amazing work. More amazing is how little time it takes you to do it!

9 minutes ago, BobG said:

...a table saw

That’s really all you need for Cheerful, but you do need that.  Chose the Byrnes saw when you’re ready, best modeling tool I own.  

9 minutes ago, BobG said:

be my first ship with guns.

Couldn’t choose better for your first, my only issue with this and Speedy is the historically accurate but very tiny guns.  I hope you also put Cheerful on your list Bob.

Such amazing work James.  When I do my build log how about I just use your photos since I can’t match your quality🤣😂

Do you mind my asking, is building And photographing models your work, or are you just this good in your spare time?

On 7/2/2020 at 3:06 AM, marsalv said:

moldings are made on CNC milling maschine.

To say your modeling skill is next level would imply there is another level beyond, there isn’t. Your work is superb. 
 

I may have missed it somewhere, how to you get length for your moldings, a special table or home built mod?  Mine Mill is limited to 5 inches.

Thank you for all the likes and follows. It’s inspiring to know other builders are watching my progress. 

Thanks Derek and Gart!  I’m enjoying the successes and working through the mistakes. 

56 minutes ago, Jonny 007 said:

really enjoying following your build log.

Thanks for the interest, glad you’re enjoying it. I like your avatar. 😊

Thanks Bob!

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.

I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.

I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.

I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.

Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.

I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!

3 hours ago, DelF said:

So do your typos:

They aren’t typos, it is Apple making way too many decisions for me with predictive text on my iPad. I type the right word, Apple changes it to something it likes, and I don’t go back and edit.

But as long as it entertains then I’m fine with it, though I really should turn off predictive text. 

Your method looks great, and a good choice give the guns are so tiny. You may have converted me on frapping, at least on Flirt when I get to her, Cheerful is big enough I’m sure the coils will work. The difference in your ring bolts is striking, thanks for the detailed explanation on making them, which I’ll put to use. 
 

In the book Chris recommended on Cochrane I learned he did replace all the guns with larger ones only to find the wouldn’t work for several reasons and he had to change them back. He could carry a full broadside of the shot in his pockets as he walked the deck. 
 

See you on the other side.

Great work as usual. Darker may be too dark once on the shelf. Maybe look at the test pieces where you plan to display her. 

20 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

there WERE detailed Operations Manuals

I've yet to have a cannon come loose after I've used a drip of CA to each wheel. I do use the medium viscosity version of CA just for this task but I guess if you're adverse to CA in the first place the pin makes sense, likely a good way to have the cannons consistently placed at each gun port.

I'll continue with my loose coils on my guns, and with the guns run out, it is just a model after all. Everything I've read, including the book on Cochrane says Captains had near total discretion on how to manage their ships. My Captain likes coils, and CA on his cannon wheels.

I'm looking forward to seeing how your Speedy turns out.

I don’t think a skim coat of filler is necessary, it looks fine.  You might have gone a tad thin on the sternpost, try holding two pieces of 2nd planking either side and holding the sternpost to it so you know how much you can, or can’t sand on the second planking. 

As I said, we modelers are of the obsessed. I perfectly understand having recently ripped off so many of my own models planking multiple times. 
 

BTW: In the for what it’s worth category I prefer coils for the gun tackle, perhaps not the hyper neat Flemish coils, but natural coils either side. It seems to me this makes the guns more action ready, but perhaps not the best for routine sailing. Wrapped around the tackle makes sense too but again, in my opinion, makes it look a tad bulky. Either way is fine I think but I also think neither is better or more accurate than the other. I don’t see a British naval captain with a Operations Manual that designates ‘Proper arrangemention of gun tackle rope; chapter 4, subsection 3.2’ 😂🤣