glbarlow

I too want to applaud Chris (and Chuck) for sharing and soliciting the input of others.  I'm sure we all respect it is his nickel on the line when it comes time to make decisions. My input is its great to have a diverse line, and I agree not to have too many models that are essentially the same - the reverse side is an eclectic line up may have the reverse impact with buyers not seeking him out because they don't know what he does.  I think Chris' philosophy of making models everyone can build with clear instructions, expert design, and quality laser cut material will set him apart, but that it should be a reasonably bracketed range of products. I think Chris is doing this by a time period of sailing ships, so that makes sense to me.  

I want to re-register my vote for a small frigate like Sphinx. The big 40’s are gun platforms and while they may have history, they are readily available and don’t have much character. The perhaps lessor know and smaller frigates aren’t targets of the big manufacturers and are more unique to build, because they were unique when they existed. I mean how many gun carriages do we need to make. At some point British ships became a bit cookie cutter.  
 

Admittedly I say this with Pegasus and Vanguard already displayed on my shelves, but I think a model that doesn’t take two-three years to build has an audience, at least this audience member. I don’t want to sort out many more 4 pounders like Speedy and Flirt, and I get it about carronades even if they aren’t as sexy as 12 pounders. So a 20 gun range frigate is my recommendation. I liked building Granado, the bomb ship deck mortars have character and were interesting to build as another example. 

1 hour ago, drumgerry said:

you need your timber pretty much planed all round and of the correct thickness

Of course, that’s why l look for a source of milled sheet stock.  It used to be easy to find.

5 hours ago, drumgerry said:

Sawn planks surely need tidying up after ripping even if they're close to final thickness?

No, not really. With my Byrnes saw and the right blade I can get really nice planks as I’ve been doing with my Cheerful build. 

Splinting a bulkhead is an opportunity many of us have had, with your fix it will be stronger than before.

Adapt, improvise, and overcome. With homage to Clint Eastwood that’s my modelers creed. 
 

btw, thanks for the link on boxwood. Unfortunately I need it in a more finished state, buying it

like Derek in 1-6mm thicknesses. I can rip planks, but not reduce thickness. 

I’ll once again enjoy watching you taking one of Chris Watten’s already excellent designs to the next level.  I like the idea of these smaller simpler models we can finish in a few months.  I say that as I just now get close to planking the final 9 planks on my Cheerful’s hull knowing how far I have to go yet. Speaking of which is that a plan of Cheerful on the right wall? I have the NMM print, just need a frame shop to reopen.

I have my master Shipwright version of Flirt to build after Cheerful, but that’s a long time from now. By then there will be lots of build logs for me to consult. Looking forward to seeing your progress. 
 

I sent an email to Timberline asking them if they’d ship to the US, didn’t even get a reply so I guess that’s a no

7 hours ago, Sjors said:

also have one in stock.

I do, the first copy of the Master Shipwright version. It will be waiting for me after I complete Cheerful, still have a long way to go. 

Glad to see Flirt underway!

I’ll get one after both of you start on your own  Cheerful 😀 

On 8/2/2020 at 7:18 AM, MEDDO said:

Still eyeing the Cheerful as the frames and keel are already cut. 

A decision you won't regret - its a challenge, and a joy.

Your great work is tempting me to get myself one....

On 8/8/2020 at 4:12 PM, Boatsinc2000 said:

Jeff Hayes aka HobbyMill

Jeff!  Where have you been, we all miss you and your wood!  Come back! 😀🤣😂

I have both, the Byrnes saw is used routinely and often, the sander only occasionally.  The Byrnes saw should be the first power tool every modeler owns without question. 

2 hours ago, Keith Page said:

so fed up with fragile mdf parts

Interesting this is your first post and that’s your comment. Bases on many other Speedy logs and those of us who have the kit your experience is an odd exception. Is it that you don’t like MDF, there are discussions on this forum on that topic.  What particular part was “fragile,” I’m sure we’d all like to understand. 
 

As noted, Chris would and will help out anyone encountering a problem, all you have to do is ask. 

55 minutes ago, Brewerpaul said:

My Process For Planking".

Wow, I didn’t know that was there. For the record whatever I was doing for planking then is not how I’m doing it now as would be evidenced by my most recent logs, so I should update or delete that post.

There seems to be a lot of definitions of what ‘spiling’ is in these forums, but having built the POB I am quite certain there is a good deal of tapering of planks required. There is no way the same number of planks will fit at the bow as does at the waist otherwise.

A 1/16th thickness of dry wood should be easy to cut with a #11 blade and metal straight edge. This is the only way I’ve ever done it. I buy blades by the 100 and change them frequently, they have to be sharp. I also use a 300mm heavy metal ruler, a short thin one would tend to slide. 

1 hour ago, Bob Cleek said:

very slight taper on the back half

Perhaps, but it was Jim Byrnes that gave me this step first, and offered again by others.

😂🤣

Another excellent build BE, congratulations. 
 

I’m sure everyone appreciates the level of detail you provide in your logs. 

29 minutes ago, DelF said:

put your valet on short time

He’s indispensable, how else would I get dressed. But with the covid stuff I can do that with the chauffeur, he’s just sitting around anyway.🤪😜

I really hate that I’m now going to have to buy a lathe....

Beautiful, next level work as usual...and excellent tutorial to add to bookmarked pages. 

On 8/6/2020 at 9:51 PM, mtaylor said:

adjust the exit side of the fence away from the blade slightly

This is all it takes to prevent kickbacks in my experience, that and a side block to keep it tight to the side and a push stick to move it past the blade. 

How is your Speedy coming along?

On 7/20/2020 at 4:37 AM, marsalv said:

insert the plank into the groove in the jig

Ingenious! If I may ask, how do you keep the moulding strip from sliding in the grove as it’s being milled