glbarlow

A small plane or chisels would be better for the rabbet, you’d stand a good chance of over doing it with a Dremel. I rarely find a use for mine. I have a slower speed Proxxon rotary tool thats easier to manage. 

Well done, it looks great

Really nice!!

Bold move. I bought a sheet of acrylic, no way I’d go near the kitchen granite. Glad you survived contact. 
 

welcome to the build. 

Hi Allan, not to hijack BE's log, I'd be really interested in seeing some of your logs or gallery images of your models, I'm sure they'd be inspiration for us all to see the level of detail you bring to our shared hobby.   Can you add links to your signature we could follow?

Glad to see you back and hope you are well and able to continue your Winchelsea, it is inspiration for us all.

18 hours ago, allanyed said:

not into the details

There are details that matter and those that don't - the number of spokes in a ship's wheel simply don't.

Detailed books can be overwhelming for many first time builders - while they are a valid resource the best way to learn rigging is to do it.  The build logs noted above, in particular @DelF are an excellent resource, I try to explain as much as I can in my build logs, in particular the Cheerful log linked below in my signature.

Cutters and sloops are a nice place to start, they have enough rigging to make it an effort but not too much to overwhelm. The most important thing to do is to get a model with excellent instruction and detailed plans. Many of the cheap kits have neither. Vanguard Models provides both in a manner that separates its kits from all others for beginners. The plans have all you need on what and where to rig, but you do have to know how to seize, belay,  and tie,  which the plans don't cover. The build logs help with that as does the specialty forum for rigging on this site.

Although he's not in favor by many on this forum, I learned how to rig my first model, the AVS, using Bob Hunt's practicum - he covers every detail.

Quite amazing how you engineer complexity such that us regulate people can build it simply. 

15 hours ago, desalgu said:

You have to rely on the plans

That’s pretty common for rigging. On quality models like Vanguard that’s really all you need, or for me it is anyway.  
 

I consult other build logs, sometimes even different models to sort it out, then try to explain as best I can how I did it. When that and looking at my copies of the many books often posted fail I go look at @DelFlogs😁

9 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

forever be spoke counting

I won’t 🤣

Wheel spoke count? Wow, I never knew 12 verses 10 was a thing, my lack of maritime knowledge continues to show.

Indy was one big frigate, razee or not. Surprised it’s they’re that close in size. 

I think it’s ok to pin the yard to the mast with a cut off nail. That way you’re not fully dependent on rigging to keep it in place. It’s completely in visible once done and with rigging in place. Your second diagram down is my vote except I’d tie it off to the mast, I’ve never run that rope down to belay, seems unlikely there would be two ropes running down.  There should be a yard lift that raised and lowered it to be added later.  That said I’ll defer to our maritime experts that I’m sure will offer an opinion.

I haven’t and won’t ever include a representation of sails on my models. Aside from scale and material problems they overwhelm the model, hiding or masking all the detailed work of both wood and rope. They become too much the focus of the model and overall not a good look. To me they look like one of those decoration type ships found in home accessory stores. 
 

That said, and has been noted, this is just my opinion of which there are many and varied on this forum. Ultimately it’s your model and your choice. 

I run one color highlighter over every tenth row line on the card and a different color over the fifth row between those, helps to keep track.  I learned that trick from someone here on the forum. 

Looking sharp, your usual high quality work.  There was a little debate on one of the Sphinx threads about how to do the crows feet, hollowneck’s I think. 

Can’t go wrong either way, since no sailors will be climbing them it’s whatever you think looks best on the shelf. 

Excellent work, it’s a great looking model and a Speedy well done. Great work!

Sehr gut gemacht 

I agree, it doesn’t make much sense, they’d climb either side for the stability. It would be a unique look, but I’d leave the center gap clear.  So two opposing Glenn votes😏

I space them 10 then 5 then 2. Not only for keeping them lined up but it also makes it easier to tie, and even better at least for me, somehow it makes me physiologically feel like am making more progress in less time. 

Looking great.  I dread ratlines but once I get started I go into a trance😳

9 hours ago, DelF said:

My micrometer

Everyone raise your hand if you have a tool that measures thread to .04 diameter 😜 

11 hours ago, Dave_E said:

I’m going to try and add some rope coils,

You should definitely do that, you’re not finished until you’re finished.  I showed my method in my Cheerful long, along the way I discovered clear acrylic being a better option for me than diluted PVA. Definitely not CA for these.