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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Just catching up on this lovely model. Well done, bolin!
  2. druxey
    Doing the gratings over the skylights at that scale is a real challenge!
  3. druxey
    Thanks to all who checked in and commented. Bob: The yoke is based on ones seen on contemporary models (see example below, SLR 1820). None have long arms, so presumably the leverage was sufficient. None show the lines and/or how they were run, but it would be reasonable to assume some kind of leading blocks. There is no indication of any on the cutter in the Venetian museum, so we are left hanging. This model will not show sails or rigging, just oars deployed. The case should be completed on Thursday, so no more can be done until then.
  4. druxey
    Which reminded me of when I was a small child who read early. At my grandmother's was a shared toilet off the landing. The 'works' were a Victorian era extravaganza with a highly decorated bowl. I was mildly terrified to read the name of that particular piece of china. It read, "The Shark". But we digress!
  5. druxey
    The bibbs do no angle anywhere as much as you show, Alan. As they are now, they will stick out either side of your trestle trees. I made that mistake on my first lower mast as well!
  6. druxey
    So, the moldings I cut and ebonized yesterday have been assembled on the base and the acrylic pedestals installed. The model has been mounted on these using spots of epoxy. I now have to wait for the case to be made before I can mount the base on the much larger sub-base and attach the oars. Almost there!
  7. druxey
    Good save there, Stuglo!
  8. druxey
    Looks very promising, Michael.
  9. druxey
    Pat: I simply cut rectangular section blanks for the oars, milled the shaft portions to 3" square, then cut, scraped and sanded the rest by hand and eye, also using a dial gauge for the finished dimensions. Spent part of the day (when not doing remedial work on the house exterior) milling moldings for the base and sub-base and ebonizing them. More soon. Thanks again for all the likes and visits, everyone!
  10. druxey
    There are so many creative solutions to any problem. That's one of them!
  11. druxey
    Now what would be really interesting is for you to build this kit, then build a modern kit version and see how the two compare!
  12. druxey
    What plug? Nice progress, Toni! My only comment is that I interpret the shaded are at the tip of the knee as being shaved away to a blunt point as seen from above. If you can do that, the carving will look even nicer. Oh, and don't forget the shallow notch for the gammoning. See the Weazle draught.
  13. druxey
    Eberhard: I was lucky this time. I made 12 blanks and did not have to re-do any of the ten. HH: Thank you. If you know the tricks of the trade, faux wood grain of all kinds is not that difficult. A wonderful book on the subject is: Professional Painted Finishes, by the Marx brothers (not those ones!) Allen and Robert and Ina Brosseau Marx, Watson Guptill, 1991.
  14. druxey
    All ten oars are now carved and ready for bindings and leathering. Work continues on the base and pedestals. The latter will be from ⅛" diameter acrylic rod, so as to be minimalist.
  15. druxey
    Yes, softening means a very light rounding off of a sharp edge.
  16. druxey
    That galley roof is beautiful. I'm sorry that it will hardly be seen.
  17. druxey
    Looking very nice, Ron.
  18. druxey
    As a bit of light relief while making oars (five down, five to go!) I faux-painted a burlwood base for the model. There will be molding all the way around and a sub-base as well.
  19. druxey
    Shipman: Something in the order of 0.010" at 1:48 scale (I think that's was what you were asking!)
  20. druxey
    Coming along splendidly, HH!
  21. druxey
    Keith: Theoretically 5/8", but they are actually a whisker thicker for integrity of the blade ends.
  22. druxey
    They are not complete yet nor bound with a metal strap to prevent splitting. All in good time, Roger!
  23. druxey
    Contour duplicators are much too large and coarse to be useful in model-making. Save your money, unless you are doing house reno's.
  24. druxey
    If the light balance is a little off, the joinery certainly isn't!
  25. druxey
    It is much better that the thwarts are too long than too short! No-one has invented a good wood stretcher yet. Card patterns are certainly the way to go, just as you suggested. Cut a piece roughly to the angle you need, then refine it by careful trimming. For complex shapes, you can glue small pieces of card to a larger one to get exactly the shape you need.

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