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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Kevin: The rule of thumb is one riser depth plus one tread width totals approximately 18". So a six inch rise, 12" tread, etc. (Sorry, you metric folk!) This applies to flights of stairs, within certain parameters. Ladders, being steeper, are another matter. Around 10" spacing seems average.
  2. I agree with Allan; about 10", but slight variations depending on total rise without any uneven step in the run!
  3. A very respectable result for a first outing. That is not a simple model for an absolute beginner. Well done for persisting, Bill!
  4. If I may ask, Henry, what resolution does such a printer run at? It looks to be extremely fine.
  5. Finds keep turning up! Thanks for this, Mark.
  6. I agree with Greg, Kevin: the port side outer timber appears to be (in the photo at least) too vertical. This throws the spacing of the inner timbers and will affect the stern gallery lights. Best check this before you commit to further construction.
  7. Perhaps this style of wheel was never actually used! The model was, after all, only a proposed one.
  8. A curved spoke would provide a little more shock absorption over rough ground.
  9. Thank you for clarifying the early date for reef points, Steven. Why then, I wonder, were bonnets in use until so much later?
  10. Reef points back then? I thought that this was a later invention and that a bonnet or bonnets were used.
  11. I had coffee with a friend for the first time since covid this morning. He quoted from a T.S. Eliot poem that I thought was perfect for you: Bowsprit cracked with ice and paint cracked with heat. I made this, I have forgotten And remember. The rigging weak and the canvas rotten Between one June and another September. Made this unknowing, half conscious, unknown, my own. The garboard strake leaks, the seams need caulking. The poem is called, appropriately, Marina.
  12. Just as well. It would probably have sat here as well, giving me guilt as well as stress! There's more than enough on my plate....
  13. Makes more sense to have a protective metal sheet where swivels mount, rather than under deadeye straps where the forces up and down are balanced out.
  14. Pretty tricky at that scale! What happened to the aft cross-piece, though?
  15. I understand that conserving the wreck will take years.
  16. My understanding is that plate along the side to prevent wear was a single strip, not separate plates. Also, it was on the inner timber with square holes for swivel guns, not the outer strip slotted for the shroud plates. (See Steel, Plate 5. Volume I, Rigging and Seamanship.)
  17. Excellent find! This will help us understand early transitional building techniques better. Thanks for posting.
  18. The method that works for me is to make the cutter profile in a softened piece of hacksaw blade. As you discovered, you can't do undercuts, so any angle on the molding needs to be shaped afterwards, but is usually not necessary except for entry steps. I pre-cut strips the width and maximum depth plus a whisker of the molding to be cut. I then either rubber cement (larger strips) or white glue (smaller ones) to a flat, hard surface. This will act as the depth stop. Cut until the cutter rides along the base surface and you have a nice, even molding. The trick is not to use too much downward pressure on each pass. Many light cuts are better and there is less chance of the cutter digging in. Your method is far more sophisticated!
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