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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Oh, all right, then. Three examples from McKay's The Practical Shipbuilder, 1839
  2. druxey
    'White stuff' or 'black stuff' was used prior to copper plating. As for plank seams, if your model hull is planked, the seams will 'read' through paint sooner or later anyway!
  3. druxey
    If it's of any help, the draughts in McKay's book all show almost vertical stems.
  4. druxey
    I agree that the 'wiggly thingies' (great technical term!) were for spits at varying distances from the heat source.
  5. druxey
    Just brilliant at that scale, wefalck!
  6. druxey
    The extension lines (the ones between the ends of a measured dimension) at the right end of the drawing are not separated from the drawing itself. That is the origin of the confusion.
  7. druxey
    On a side note, can anyone identify the item forward of the tiller (photo above) that appears like a diagonal crest? Another oddity is the wheel almost against the bulkhead. How was it connected to the rudder? One would need to steer the wheel facing aft! Was this a later addition?
  8. druxey
    It's a great set to own, and easy to clean. It does not have the vulnerable long needle of conventional airbrushes. Steve had good taste.
  9. druxey
    A real milestone, Steven! Well done at sticking to it until all the oarsmen were complete. You just crossed the finish line of the marathon... or am I mixing my metaph-oars - I mean metaphors?
  10. druxey
    Craig: Your schematic sketch is about right. Open so that the tall rudderhead can pass through (which is unusual), but perhaps there is a rudder coat around to prevent water coming up or going down and a hinged lid on the aft part, like the one just above in post #12.
  11. druxey
    Just catching up on your build, JD. It looks like it's going well. You can sometimes 'rescue' pin-holes - depending on specie of wood - by wetting the hole with water and a touch of dilute white glue. The moisture expands the fibers, and the glue closes things up.
  12. druxey
    That is a whole lot of beams! Lovely work.
  13. druxey
    Ha! So you are back with a vengeance, Clare. Your sail construction technique looks quite original, so I'm looking forward to how it will come together when complete. The idea of making a scratch-built model and placing it beside the unassembled kit is interesting as well.
  14. druxey
    Bravo!
  15. druxey
    Beautifully executed. I think what is bugging you is the size of the ball on the end of the anchor stock. It only needs to be large enough so that the stock won't slip through the shank. Otherwise, it looks very, very convincing.
  16. druxey
    Best wishes for a successful surgery, Alan. I recall seeing a 'take apart' model of a mast. I thought perhaps it was at Greenwich, but can find no photo of it. It must have been on display at the Science Museum, Kensington, before they rolled up the ship model section and put it away.
  17. druxey
    You have a great attitude! Part of the problem you have is that the hull form is a very full one with round bow. This is the most tricky shape to cover neatly, but it can be done. As you've discovered, there's lots of advice available here.
  18. druxey
    Do also read one of the planking tutorials on this site. It will help you get this planking business in perspective!
  19. druxey
    Lovely work as ever, Gary!
  20. druxey
    I think rubber cement to fix the paper pattern to plastic should work OK without issues of water-based adhesives. Lovely trailboard work!
  21. druxey
    Just make sure that the printout on the transparency is 100% without distortion! I used a marked stick laid along the centerline of the model to ensure that the beam spacing stayed on track.
  22. druxey
    The triangular section would accommodate the swing of the tiller heel and contain any water that was forced pas the rudder coat below. The aft part (colored blue) I agree would be storage space with a hinged lid, perhaps. These spaces would be separated by a divider, unless you go for the fresh halibut theory!
  23. druxey
    While the CNC results are unarguably excellent, they lack the irregularity and sharper edges of manually carved works. This, of course, is simply a personal observation and opinion. Manual carving seems, to me at least, more 'soul' in its imperfections. I suppose such idiosyncrasies could be programmed into CNC!
  24. druxey
    Using one's hands, although potentially dangerous, gives one a better 'feel' of how stock is feeding. I often rip two thirds the way through, then flip the board over to complete the cut so that my hands never get close to the blade. Still have all ten fingers!
  25. druxey
    Lovely scrollwork and moldings.

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