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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    re: pillars under beams. I don't know about French practice, but the British used a mortise in the beam above to fit the tenon on the upper end of the pillar. On the deck there was a shallow inclined slot so that the post located properly with a ramped tenon. It could still easily be knocked out with a blow or two - in the correct direction.
  2. druxey
    If that soft, then possibly basswood. Lime (a similar specie) is a bit harder and takes crisp detail. It was used extensively by Grinling Gibbons. See: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/comment/letters/9036493/Horace-Walpoles-wondrous-wooden-necktie.html https://www.geraldblandinc.com/tables/grinling-gibbons-console
  3. druxey
    One: in the finished model, no-one can see both sides at the same time (unless you give the case a mirrored back!). Two: I bet on the real ship things were tweaked to fit as well! Looking really nice indeed. Thought: is that 'apple' actually limewood?
  4. druxey
    That was a helluva way to achieve the fashion pieces! Well done, Toni. Cutting back the hull planking neatly and in a straight line must have been nerve-wracking. If you ever need to do that on another model the two-part fashion piece is so much easier (see The Hayling Hoy book, pages 12 and 82, if you have a copy). When complete, the 'cheat' is completely hidden.
  5. druxey
    You've really mastered those tricky little beggars, Gary!
  6. druxey
    Wood will move (or not), no matter what you do! Hopefully it is well seasoned and will not move. I like your built-in bevel refinement to the jig. When I cut my beams, I cu the convex edge first, then rout the concave side using a width stop, which keeps the curves concentric to each other. However, it does not produce a bevel unless one has a tilting table. I simply cut the fore and aft beams a hair thicker to allow for bevelling later. Your method is more sophisticated, Mark!
  7. druxey
    Clamp the plate in your vise. Split the bamboo into narrow sections. Only use the layer just below the hard, glassy exterior as the inner parts are far too soft. Whittle one end of the stock to get it to feed through a large hole in the plate. Progressively pull the bamboo through the plate in decreasing sizes, feeding from the flat side of the plate (this is most important!). I use parallel pliers to grip the stock. The fibers of the bamboo are less likely to be crushed. Make sure you pull in a straight line at right angles to the plate. When i get to the medium/smaller size holes, I pull the stock through each hole twice. Once you have the hang of it, you can produce treenail sized material very quickly.
  8. druxey
    It's a bit of a chore if the image is complex, but Mark and others are correct: import and trace.
  9. druxey
    That is decidedly strange. The gremlins have been at work in the printer....
  10. druxey
    Just stumbled across your log again, Chris. Nice progress!
  11. druxey
    The curse of having one's train of thought interrupted! So annoying. Looking at the chips coming off your edge tool in the second to last photo, I have two recommendations. Use a piece of hardwood as a cutting block. Using the cutting mat for this will lead to chipping out on the far side of the cut. Second, is the tool sharp and honed sufficiently? If you have difficulty maintaining a really sharp edge, Look at Lee Valley/Veritas' honing guide (with the narrow-blade head): https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/guides/101899-veritas-mk-ii-standard-honing-guide?item=05M0901 Together with a good set of stones, you will have surgically sharp tools. (BTW, it won't hold a short-bladed tool such as you show in your photo; a narrow chisel will be perfect for the job. I've no connection with Lee Valley other than as a long-time and satisfied customer.
  12. druxey
    I think Goodwin was correct. Check earlier illustrations of cable/messenger and capstan; everything is shown happening at deck level.
  13. druxey
    It's a nice little book, isn't it? Congrats on your 1,000 mark.
  14. druxey
    Looking very nice, Clare. The 'wood' looks very convincing.
  15. druxey
    Bravo! That upper finishing looks very tricky to achieve.
  16. druxey
    In a cross-section, especially at this scale, you can't leave anything out! Terrific work, Karl.
  17. druxey
    Stability of temperature and humidity is, I think, the critical thing. Changes result in swelling or shrinkage from the original ambient conditions the wood was in Some species are more stable than others, but all wood will 'move' with changing conditions.
  18. druxey
    Beautiful! But is seems pity to hide half of that lovely framing work.
  19. druxey
    Me neither! The Byrnes plate was a revelation to me when it first came out.
  20. druxey
    Looks like you are on track now, Stuart. The relative positions of the hawes holes look much better than before.
  21. druxey
    If at first we don't succeed....Good for you to stick (and unstick!) to it, Stuglo.
  22. druxey
    Fascinating to follow your lines of reasoning as you proceed.
  23. druxey
    Ah! That explains everything. Thank you, Siggi!
  24. druxey
    Very nicely made, but are they mounted too high above the deck?
  25. druxey
    Well, you are getting a lot of experience doing this.... After you've planked a complete hull you will be an expert.

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