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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Not every ship model shows every detail! Another instance is that scuppers are seldom shown either. They would, of course be present in the actual ship. Remember that many models are stylized to a greater or lesser extent. -
All I can do is shake my head and keep reminding myself that this model is not at 1:48 or 1:64! Amazing.
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Channel bends is an alternate name for the channel wale planks.
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Rising wood questions
druxey replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Once you read Longridge, it will all become clear. To explain everything that you need to know would take a book - and it's already been written! But, briefly the analogous timber to the deadwood amidships is the rising wood. It is usually only a few inches high at the dead flat and about 3" wider than the keel. It seems to be omitted from your cross sectional illustration above. However, it was standard in those days. -
Very neatly done, Siggi! Another way is to glue the blank to a piece of wood using white glue. The advantage is that you can turn the piece in any direction while carving and also keeping your fingers safe. Also, if you slip, it won't harm your model. Soak the piece in rubbing alcohol to free it when you are finished.
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I think you'll find that after some time, differences in wood color tend to deepen and even out.
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Nice work on those tricky rails and hances!
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No buttocks
druxey replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Buttock lines are seldom seen on contemporary draughts. If you have the knowledge, by using waterlines and station sections you can construct these yourself. -
The problem with the carver's bench, above, is that - beautiful as it is - it has insufficient knee room for sitting. It is essentially a standing bench.
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It a appears that a series of cleats are attached to the vertical staging posts.
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The table Joe posted (#14) is a jeweler's bench. Good for ultra-miniature work, it doesn't have the flat surface area most model-makers need. If you can afford an electric table adjustable of height on a cantilever principle, then that is the best option - particularly if you are a wheelchair user.
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Question Sherboune 1763 Inventory Rigging and blocks
druxey replied to cotrecerf's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Source, Mark, is Ch10/65 or CHN 0105 RMG (Royal Museums Greenwich). -
Um.. why not painted paper or card strips instead of brass?
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Question Sherboune 1763 Inventory Rigging and blocks
druxey replied to cotrecerf's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The 'fishhooks' are the numeral 1, as are the green circled numerals. -
I only woke up to the benefits of parallel pliers a few years ago when I took a jewelry making course. Wish I'd had a pair decades ago! They are indispensable for miniature 'smithing'. Lovely work there. BTW, my capsquares were built up, not cast. Mind you, I didn't need the quantity of them that you require.
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SeaWatch is the sole distributor, Brian.
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It's probably water content in rubbing alcohol that softens the wood.
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Some wood springs back more than other species. Basswood has very little spring-back in thin pieces.
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It's amazing how, with the planksheer and timberheads, the model suddenly looks more finished - even if it isn't! Lovely work there, Alex.
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Ad infinitum or ad nauseam, HH? Example of capsquare attached to a 12lb carronade carriage. Admittedly it is at 1:48 scale, but on a carriage that size they are pretty small!
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OK, oh OCD one: what about the hinge on one end and the square hole at the other?
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Morgan: I would agree with your assessment of the 'stand-off' effect of the cleats, as well as preventing the breeching from hanging up on top of the front of the cheek.
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Gee, that's the Rolls Royce version, Mark. Mine was a Ford: just a half-round the diameter of the trunnion glued to a flat surface. The strip of copper was pressed down using a suitable pair of tweezers on edge each side of the half-round. Worked fine. I am definitely not my father's son! (See previous comment).
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