druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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The advice above by Russ is right on, Dave. Also check the planking tutorials on this site. -
Thank you for the detailed information, Bob. Certainly it is nice to carve (I've used it for half hulls), but the fine dust produced when sawing or sanding is a serious issue to control. One person I know has become allergic to yellow cedar.
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Where is the best place to get good quality ships flags?
druxey replied to Lucius Molchany's topic in Wood ship model kits
I hand-paint mine on SilkSpan - it has wet strength, unlike tissue paper. -
You have excellent advice above, Malcolm. We all start inexperienced and unskilled. It's a good place to start - it can only improve from there! You'll find good answers to your questions as you go along. There will be mistakes, but that's all part of the process. Have fun!
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Very nicely done!
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Superb!
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Never leave masking tape on for a moment longer than needed - but you know that, now. Glad the fix-it worked out well!
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I've seen models of centerboards showing a chain to a horizontal drum and two-handled winch. (Look for 'centreboards' on the RMG 'Collections/ models' site, but note the English spelling!
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Nice work, Mike. But do the parts need any finish at all? Some clamps have the jaws lined with thin cork sheet.
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- hahn
- oliver cromwell
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Paul is correct for the era of Triton. The 'dropped' planks at the sides were hooked, as shown nicely above. You will, as master shipwright, determine the layout and taper yourself.
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HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
The collection of completed frames in the photo really demonstrates the quantity of wood a ship's framing consumed. Very nicely done, Albert. -
Assuming your model is late 18th century and British, a 3-pounder was typically 4' 6" long. At 1:48 scale (and in metric!) that would be about 28mm.
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Frank: I'm sorry to read that you have other more pressing matters right now, and hope that they are not too serious. Best wishes while your attention is focussed on these. We can wait until you return.
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Venting a case will help, but not necessarily eliminate the issue. Sealing lead-bearing metal parts before they deteriorate with something like clear nail varnish will also help, but is no guarantee against break-down over time. The most effective measures? Never use lead or white metal parts. Replace them with lead-free fittings and dispose of the originals using hazardous materials handling and at a suitable waste facility.
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Congratulations, Dan. I agree that the light maple base drew the eye too much away from the model. A good decision to stain it. Well done all round.
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- michelangelo
- ocean liner
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Ditto from me, Clare! Sorry you have to deal with an uninsured idiot.
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I've never seen a Fearsome Step Drill before. I'd be terrified to use it on anything, let alone my model! You must have nerves of steel.
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I believe that should read '...Training Corps." (Paragraph 3, line 2).
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Girona by augustus
druxey replied to augustus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Don't the side planks curve up more to match the top of the sides? -
You may need to take an average reading between uncompressed and maximum compression, Rob.
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- young america
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Such clean and excellent work as usual, Matiz!
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