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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. For really thin line, rather than use a two-strand (which never looks right), start with three thinner threads. If thinner thread isn't available, turn three-stranded thread in such a way as to un-spin it. You will find it consists of three yarns. Carefully pick up one yarn at one end with tweezers and cut it. Don't let the long end go! Now strip out this yarn, leaving two intact. Do this to the other two strands, then make up your line in the usual way. On a planetary style ropewalk this technique may not be possible. I've only done this on a conventional style machine.
  2. Well, that was a good save without disassembling the axletrees and cranks!
  3. Then best kind of filler is no wood filler! However, if the gaps are very small, sawdust and white glue do a good job.
  4. Nice, clean work there, Mick. Those other 40 frames? Slow and steady does it. You'll get there.
  5. E & T: nice to see you back at work and a good start on your building board. One note of caution: the areas of stem and stern that are held by your supports could be an issue later on. I had a model that was in such a fixture for some time and when I removed the model, there was a definite pale area of unoxidized wood on the stem and stern under where the supports had been. Now, some 15 years later, there is still a faint patch showing in each of those areas. P. S. Nice blog!
  6. It's a nice little model you have there. There should be some means of hoisting the gaff (the upper boom) up the mast. Is there a sheave or hole near the top of the mast? There should also be a set of jaws at the inner (forward) ends of boom and gaff that fit around the aft side of the mast. Folk here can give you more specific advice when we know these details. There needs to be some means to keep the boom and gaff in contact with the mast, as well as keep the aft end of the gaff raised.
  7. Some rhodings were open above, allowing one to slip the axletree down into it. Obviously this won't work on the cistern ones, but Greg's solution should do the trick. I guess it's a case of festina lente - make haste slowly!
  8. While the various citations are one thing, contemporary model rigging is another! Various museum models of the period have the ratlines carried across all the shrouds. One might argue that some rigging is not completely original, but this pattern seems consistent.
  9. Don't worry; the new holly will tone down to match the older planking. I like the view of the chain leading into the tube seen through the side of the cistern. Nice!
  10. I agree that a jollyboat would not have been armed with either carronade or long gun. That was what a gunboat was for!
  11. First time? May it be the last! Hope you heal well without complication.
  12. And played the instrument too, no doubt! Is there no end to your talent, Clare? Nicely done!
  13. I guess Toni got you all pumped! (Sorry about that.) Your work on the axletrees, cranks and rhodings looks excellent, Maury.
  14. Pewter, if cast, has a surface deposit on it from the mold that inhibits the blackening agent. I abrade the castings with a 3M rotary 'spider', 400 grit, before blackening. That does the trick.
  15. B.E.: you are correct. That should have read 7". It is the lower shroud deadeyes that are 10" (in diameter!) TFFM is not entirely error free. I believe that the author wrote a disclaimer to infallibility in the preface!
  16. Persistence is paying off, I see! Is there a name for this pump design other than 'Wallace'?
  17. I thoroughly recommend John Harland and Mark Myers' Seamanship in the Age of Sail. Get a copy! It shows every conceivable evolution that might be carried out by ships with various rigs. It's been out of print for years, but good copies are usually available on abebooks.com
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