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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I agree: Taking time to plan and draw the planking layout and shift of butts is never a waste of time! It will save grief later on.
  2. druxey
    If that is where those timberheads are located, the way you have done it is very convincing. Well done!
  3. druxey
    An additional hint: once I have a strake of planking laid, I run a sanding stick along the edge of it to ensure it is even and lines up with my mark-out before proceeding with the next strake.
  4. druxey
    You forgot, Dan? Forgot???? And after all your work to make the lantern.... That's funny. Glad it all worked out for you, though.
  5. druxey
    Had you considered making master patterns and casting all those units?
  6. druxey
    And take a lot less time, Dan!
  7. druxey
    Think Commodore 64....
  8. druxey
    Coming along nicely, Mark. Try to resist doing too much sanding until planking is complete. What do you mean by '3" off'? Do you mean creep or cumulative error compared to your lining off of the planking runs? You can easily correct this by either making remaining strakes fractionally wider or narrower to compensate. Just don't let this become a big issue when it comes down to the last strake!
  9. druxey
    All the best with the move, Ben. We will await your return with bated breath....
  10. druxey
    You forgot, Gaetan? Please remember next time!
  11. druxey
    Just catching up with your log, John. She's looking lovely.
  12. druxey
    I think elevating screws were coming in around that time, but one supposes older models of carronade were probably still in use. An exception was a 68lb carronade from New York of 1782 which is illustrated with a screw elevating device (Caruana)
  13. druxey
    TFFM refers to trunnions on long guns, not carronades.
  14. druxey
    Technique is great, Popeye, but I'd be wary of using ferrous metal in a model. It can rust under certain conditions. Brass or copper are better choices.
  15. druxey
    Christian: The old-timers used both methods to get the timberheads in the positions that they needed them. As master shipwright, you need to make those decisions based on what makes the most practical sense.
  16. druxey
    Check out Scale Hardware as Mark suggests.
  17. druxey
    Nice looking metalwork, Hartmut. Well done.
  18. druxey
    Only early carronades (1780-c.1795) had trunnions. Later models had 'joints' or lugs underneath. There were many changes in their design over the first 20 or so years. The elevating screw was a later development. You should be safe using a quoin.
  19. druxey
    Very nicely done, Nils. However, I find the rivet heads 'read' a bit too prominently. Perhaps it's the fact that they are reflective at the moment?
  20. druxey
    Just found this log. Lovely work so far, Mark.
  21. druxey
    Your drafting so far looks very nice, Christian! Do the timberheads on the forecastle line up with those toptimbers?
  22. druxey
    Or, if so moved, you could cheaply cobble a ropewalk together for yourself from odds and ends. You mention a Byrnes' saw. Unless you are planning on scratch or semi-scratch building, that might be overkill. You don't need a Rolls Royce to commute!
  23. druxey
    Even so, the topsails and topgallants don't ever attach to the yards below them as in the original version of that illustration! Also would the ship really have spread a sail above the gaff at that time?
  24. druxey
    That illustration is quite bizarre, the more one looks at it!
  25. druxey
    Two fingers of Captain Morgan is terrific. Oh, yes, so is your model, Dan!

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