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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    How about the Suffield pump? Also in the Mechanics' Magazine, May 20, 1859, page vi (page 577 in the Google version)? Your description sounds similar to this.
  2. druxey
    Now, isn't that better? Looks much nicer to my eye, Maury!
  3. druxey
    Why did you leave those inner edges straight, Maury? You might wish to consider revisiting that, as it will add beauty to the lovely hull lines.
  4. druxey
    Those counter timbers look much better than the temporary supports! Nice progress, Michael.
  5. druxey
    Looking sweet, Chuck!
  6. druxey
    Terrific work, Remco!
  7. druxey
    See The Mechanics' Magazine, January 14, 1859, page 45 for a cutaway drawing of a Downton pump. (The Mechanics' Magazine and Journal of Engineering, Agricultural Machinery, Manufactures, and Shipbuilding, Volume 70, Google) https://books.google.ca/books?id=2J0AAAAAMAAJ
  8. druxey
    Color variation in wood will even out nicely with time and exposure to light and air.
  9. druxey
    Nice choice of subject, Michael, and a great start. I assume those vertical timbers at the stern are temporary.
  10. druxey
    One beautiful model, Karl. Thanks for sharing your outstanding work.
  11. druxey
    I believe that the davit was the length given in TFFM but fitted through the spanshackle on the opposite side of the forecastle to the business end. The mechanical advantage of the lever arm is better.
  12. druxey
    Use Jax Brass Black for brass, not Pewter Black. Dilute with distilled water as suggested. I use 8:1 approximately.
  13. druxey
    Yes the Bugler book and folio of plans is hard to find and usually will cost about $500. Be aware that the plans show Victory as restored, not as originally built, and now disputed as showing her as she was at Trafalgar.
  14. druxey
    The photo shows the French method of attaching beams using a dovetail. The English method had a shallower score and no dovetail.
  15. druxey
    It's called 'putting your own stamp' on the model. Sorry, but you set that up beautifully for me, Richard!
  16. druxey
    With all due respect, wq3296, the scores (not notches!) are maybe an inch or so deep, so would not really compromise strength. Besides, once the hanging and lodging knees are installed, the entire structure is considerably reinforced.
  17. druxey
    Nice re-work, Siggi. It's happened to all of us at one time or another.....
  18. druxey
    Congratulations on being philatelically published! Now your work will be seen by an even wider public. Good stuff!
  19. druxey
    Do read the planking tutorials on this site!
  20. druxey
    We've missed you as well! Nice to see you back on the real job, Bruce.
  21. druxey
    If you lay our the planking belts and strakes carefully, you may be able to manage without drop strakes or stealers. Have fun!
  22. druxey
    I've never seen a description that uses a double block as opposed to two singles on a span to the stay.
  23. druxey
    If the joint is large, wrap a little piece of paper towel around it, soak with alcohol and wrap the whole thing up with Saran wrap. Rubber bands also help if it's possible to slip them on. Leave for 24 hours and everything should come nicely apart. Don't rush it or you are liable to damage the joint. I'd personally not poke the joint with a blade for the same reason. A little patience will pay off!
  24. druxey
    Danny: your blocks look good for 18th century ones: modern ones are much less rounded off. If you have James Lees' book on rigging, you can see that the contemporary model photos show blocks that look like yours.
  25. druxey
    Paul: I just came across your instructional for airbrushing. Congratulations on a very clear, concise and professional presentation of the subject. Well done! Your videos are to be highly recommended.

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