druxey
-
Posts
13,032 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by druxey
-
Perhaps shorter cannon of the same calibre were used? -
Usually the guns would be secured with the muzzles hard up against the deck clamps, just above the port openings. (The quoins would be removed to do this.)
-
Gill is a cherry-picked version: there is much information that is not there, when compared to the 1794 Steel two-volume edition. However, is expense is a factor....
-
Nice description you hunted down, Ed. So, turpentine was part of the paint formula, but not enough to flatten the finish. Boiling assisted in polymerizing the 'paint oil', which I assume was linseed oil.
- 3,607 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- young america
- clipper
- (and 1 more)
-
Bravo, Alex! Too bad the bearing detail will be hidden soon.... Don't forget a good dose of grease.
-
With all due respect to Lees and yourself, Dan; Steel (Rigging and Seamanship, Volume I, page 190) gives the sequence of rigging for topgallant masts as shrouds, standing backstay, then stay. Great job on the jib traveller!
-
Silver soldering - Copper vs Brass
druxey replied to rtropp's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
That seems strange, Richard. I assume that it really is copper that you have there. Perhaps someone else can suggest what is going wrong. -
I agree with you, Alan! I'm no fan of megastores either (as you could probably tell).
-
You might try that big, ugly Pro Bass shop in the new mega-shopping centre at Glendale and the QEW.
-
Silver soldering - Copper vs Brass
druxey replied to rtropp's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Are all the surfaces clean of all dirt or grease? Are the surfaces in close contact? These are the two most common causes of joint failure. -
ancre Le Fleuron by cabrapente - FINISHED
druxey replied to cabrapente's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
You are a brave man: carving those rails already in place! -
Bee-ootiful, Ed! Your comments on 19th century paint are interesting. I agree that oil based paints dry to a glossy finish, but the addition of turpentine as drying agent will tend to flatten the finish somewhat. Without drying agents in the paint, the film would take weeks if not months to polymerize, i.e. 'dry'. I imagine that the shipyard would have used some turpentine in their paint mix.
- 3,607 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- young america
- clipper
- (and 1 more)
-
Scratch Build George Law rigging question
druxey replied to Boat Doc's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
There are many good books on period rigging. Underhill is certainly one. Another you might consider is Longridge's Cutty Sark. -
Lovely work, Siggi. You've trained your workers well. Prost!
-
to pickle or not pickle, that is the question.
druxey replied to rtropp's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Picking will clean off corrosive flux by-products as well as oxidation on the parts. -
Scratch Build George Law rigging question
druxey replied to Boat Doc's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If sails were to be bent to the square yards, one would need the usual assortment of blocks for buntlines, clueless and leechlines attached. Also there would surely be footropes. I believe there were also jackstays fitted during this time period. Presumably there would be mast hoops and brail blocks for the fore and aft sails as well. -
Also, look at the Gallery of Contemporary Models on this site, the model of Trial (page 2). This collection of photographs by members of models in museums is an invaluable resource and inspiration.
-
The problem is that virtually any finish forms a sealing film over the wood surfaces. This will always interfere with a good glue bond. There are only three possible solutions: 1) Apply finish only when construction is complete. 2) Scrape off the finish wherever you need to apply glue. 3) Do not apply any finish. The first method is simpler. However, you will need to exercise ingenuity to get into tight corners. The second is labor-intensive and still may not guarantee a good bond. The third method is almost fool-proof. Eternal gratitude accepted!
-
I guess copper bolts might turn green! I assume that the scarph joints for the frames are deliberate, rather than the chocks that were actually used?
-
Kits aren't necessarily historically correct, Rick. Some are better than others, others are flights of fancy. The open exposed toptimbers are more representative of 19th century and early 20th century fishing craft. If you are interested in historically accurate models, there are many, many good books available on the subject.
-
While Ollie's model is nicely done, it does not represent a typical Naval cutter circa 1800. The contemporary Science Museum's model is a better guide. There are no exposed timber heads on the inner bulwarks.
-
Dear Alex, Those are good examples of cross-sectional drawings you have cited. I absolutely agree that the earlier ones show more of a 'birdsbeak' joint amidships. However, was that actually how the rabbet/garboard joint was carried out in the shipyard?
-
The usual convention in drawings shows the rabbet as your version 1. In reality it would look like versions 2 and 3. This was not a dumb question, Dave.
-
Some sub-assemblies work: where there is a flat mating surface, such as deadwood to keel. Some are near impossible, unless you are the world's most accurate model maker. The curved stem to knee of the head joint is an example. In that instance, one piece at a time is a better strategy. However, if you want to find out the hard way.... So, the Subaru 4-wheel drive got you to work this morning? Do you get merit points for making it in?
-
Not sure about tattoo procedures, but two possible ways of transferring patterns to wood are: 1) Graphite paper. This is similar to old-fashioned carbon paper but not greasy or messy. Place a sheet face down over the wood, the paper pattern on top and press through the design with a sharp hard pencil tip. 2) Rubber cement. Coat the wood surface and the back of the paper pattern and allow to dry. Press the surfaces together like contact cement. Cut out to part, then peel off the paper. Rub any remaining rubber cement off the wood with a piece of crepe rubber.
Our Emblem ®
