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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Sorry to hear of your rodent problem, Dan. Hopefully the air has cleared by now. And congratulations for completing the re-posting of your log. Soon the memories of the Great Crash of '13 will be distant ones, to be recalled like an old campaigner over a relaxing glass of your favorite beverage!
  2. druxey
    I believe that the cleats are, like everything else, proportional.
  3. druxey
    Good catch, Toni! Now you can be truly proud of yourself for fixing it.
  4. druxey
    You are quite correct about the fact that belaying pins were unusual in British ships of this date, Hamilton. It was only after the bulwarks became closed in and the rails no longer available for belaying to that pins and pin racks proliferated. re R.C. Anderson: as a researcher in your field, you'll have no trouble finding your way around his book!
  5. druxey
    Anderson is good, but it is not for the beginner. One has to sort out the information one needs from the different eras and, depending on the edition, different nations.
  6. druxey
    Being scared is not helpful, but a healthy respect for any power tool is a good thing. Mark's advice to listen to your intuition is excellent. That applies to life as well as model making!
  7. druxey
    The 'original' Unimats (models DB200 and 1000) are a better bet: no plastic parts. They are available on eBay. My Unimat (from 1970!) is still going strong. It's not quite as accurate as a watchmaker's lathe, but it is just fine for ship modlemaking. You can use it s a mill/drill press and there are many available accessories. I used the miniature circular saw unit for cutting planking on my earlier models.
  8. druxey
    I think most folk remove their models for fairing up. Kind of hard on the knuckles near the keel otherwise, I would think.... Sanding sealer can be used any time. It does not seem to affect glue adhesion later on. Poly finish could be an issue.
  9. druxey
    HSM: blackening and patinating agents are readily available in Canada from jewellers' supply houses such as Lacy's.
  10. druxey
    Very neat machining! This is a very impressive model for both size and quality.
  11. druxey
    These newer LED grain of wheat bulbs look much more realistic and convincing. Now, how to make them flicker....
  12. druxey
    Greg wraps the area he wants to de-bond with plastic wrap to retain the isopropanol where he wants it. It prevents weakening nearby joints.
  13. druxey
    Good to see something different being tackled, steam schooner.
  14. druxey
    Lovely, but don't fix the cleats yet: it's difficult to thread the lashing lines through if they are firmly in place!
  15. druxey
    Excellent advice from Blue Ensign and Jim Lad!
  16. druxey
    So far, so good. She's looking very nice indeed.
  17. druxey
    Your framing looks very nicely done indeed, Clay. Good to see your log once more.
  18. druxey
    Goring (belts) of copper with parallel to the waterline strakes came in in the 19th century, Before that, as Russ describes, the copper ended up at an angle at the waterline.
  19. druxey
    See the three 'pinned' tutorials at the top of this topic for a full discussion of planking.
  20. druxey
    Can you tell that I'm smiling seeing your photos again?
  21. druxey
    Many thanks for this terrific re-run of your log, Gary. It is an inspiration to all builders of accurately framed and detailed models on this site.
  22. druxey
    Interesting how Humbrol paint lasts, if the tin is sealed properly. I've had similar experiences with it. Once thoroughly stirred it still is as good as new, as you said.
  23. druxey
    Ah, the old isopropanol trick.... Works every time. And there seem to be a lot of times!
  24. druxey
    Sometimes line that is stiff or has 'memory' and loosens can be tamed with a wet brush. Try that on your clove hitches.
  25. druxey
    Lee Valley is a good tip for quality planes. However, I find a well-honed chisel, used bevel down, easier to use than a plane. It is especially useful where a mast or spar goes from round to octagonal or square. You can 'get into the corner' nicely with a chisel.

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