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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I suspect this may be a 'captain's choice' decision. I'm not certain that there is a definitive answer to this question. Anyone else?
  2. The low areas are the basic windlass. Juan Carlos. The high areas are all thin wood added on afterwards. It's how the original was built: these wear areas can be replaced.
  3. Your deck framing and cants for the cabin bulkheads look very good. Well done!
  4. Good going, Ben. You are going to switch back to your other model just when things are getting interesting??
  5. Just came across your log, Michiel. Very nice work indeed! Lovely model.
  6. The lowering capstan is a very nice touch! Brilliant.
  7. Very, very nice, Gary! And the riding bitt crosspieces took a lot of abuse. They had a wear strip on the aft side as well that were easily changed, as well as the main crosspiece, as you mention.
  8. Advice on planking? See the tutorials that are posted on this site. Lots of good advice for you there.
  9. You are absolutely correct: the thickness of pencil lines matters! If you draw your own plans, these should be as thin as possible. In the case of plans such as you show, it can be a problem. One test might be to know the thickness of the bulkhead material and see which side of the lines of the slots match this. If that is not possible, then I'd cut to the outside of the lines. It's easier to sand a bit more off than glue it on again!
  10. Castello boxwood, Janos.
  11. It's the real thing, Janos.
  12. Whew! It's amazing what can happen in a split second of inattention or distraction. That, I'm glad to read, was NOT a disaster this time.
  13. An example of an octagon cut using the method I've described is shown here. The overall length of this windlass at 1:48 scale is about 4".
  14. Oh, my! Now that is ornamental 'ironwork'. Seems almost a pity to blacken it.... Beautifully done. As a matter of interest, what kind of soldering mat are you using there?
  15. Definitely you are correct, Robin: this 1853 mention was a successor Alfred, the third of the name.
  16. Pewter blackening agent works best (Jax or another brand, though jewelry supply houses). However, if the metal has been cast, it has a layer of mould release on the surface that defies colouring. First you will need to abrade the surface to get rid of this layer to get satisfactory results.
  17. Well, a schooner shouldn't take as long to build as a frigate, Allan! All the best on this new model and also for your annual getaway.
  18. Nice progress. Now you can imagine what it's like for Greg as he frames a complete hull!
  19. And I innocently thought this thread was about ship modelling.... Isn't it?
  20. Well, Bob, I for one am delighted that you are here to report. I'm sorry for your health issues and wish you a speedy and uneventful recovery. Get young guys to move heavy stuff in future, please! Take care, now.
  21. You continue to surprise and amaze us! Not only do the details look terrific, but the the overall effect has visual unity; a very tricky balance to achieve.
  22. Is there no stopping you in any material??? Real leathering is a pretty good trick, Michael.
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