druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Interesting story so far! -
NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
druxey replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
This is watchmaking level work! Beautiful.- 371 replies
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Welcome aboard, Dave!
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An excellent result of a very interesting kit and subject. Thanks for sharing this with us.
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That annoying voice.... Sorry about that but, as I say to my wife, "I'm always right." Then things go black for a while. When I regain consciousness.... On a more serious note, your drafting skills are exemplary.
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Well done. That ceiling work inside is not easy to achieve neatly.
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Coming into ship modelling from a unusual angle
druxey replied to von_bednar's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome aboard indeed, Fred. -
And next - a model pond yacht inside the boat? Seriously, that is a lovely piece of work, Keith.
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Remarkable!
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Very nice and neat work. How about towing the other boats astern? (I'll shut up now.)
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Once again, I'm just catching up, JD. A very nice result. A bit late in the day to mention it, but if you'd ended your garboard forward just as the stem begins to rise, it might have avoided putting drop strakes in. Next time, eh?
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Not, in fact, a bon-adventure at all! Glad you got it all sorted eventually.
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Allan: Even regular bond paper will work well. As it is sealed, there should be no deterioration over time. However, you might wish to consider rag content (archival) paper. I've not tried using SilkSpan for this purpose, but imagine that would also work well.
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One would need to use trigonometry, I think. The issue is you need to know one side and two angles or two sides and one angle. Not knowing the distance camera to subject means that all one can manage is an educated guess.
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Are you referring to the cleats or the battens? If battens, I don't think that these came into use until the very end of the 18th century.
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Work Table Recommendations ?
druxey replied to DanB's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
As large a surface as you can comfortably fit in. You can never have too much bench space! -
I use very thin paper, well stretched, to paint on, using acrylic paint. It should mold well around the different plank levels. Also, put on in short lengths, it is easy to manage. You could pre-paint the base color over the chesstrees and fenders and simply add the detail after. As for trimming, I pre-trim the lower edges of the pieces and trim the upper edges (under the rail above) when dry. Any slight irregularity, should it occur, will be hidden under the shadow line of the rail.
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And 90% rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) for de-bonding white or yellow glue! We all make oopsies....
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All looks very nice, Mark. Good process thinking on your run of moldings as well. Hdd you considered painting friezes on paper off-model and gluing them on in sections? Many contemporary models were painted this way. It obviates the need for awkward masking or working against gravity. And, if you mess up a piece, it's easily replaced. The friezework on Comet was done this way:
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